ST Final Drive

[Corvair]

Not sure if this is the correct place to post this? I have a 2000 ST with 75,000 miles on it. It has been hauling around an EZS side car for over 30M miles. I have lubricated the final drive and found no visual damage. On acceleration it sounds like some thing is loose or not connecting properly. Not a great description, sorry. Any thoughts would be appreciated. On my old AirHead BMW,s I had a machinist through Rubber Chicken Racing who would build up the splines and re-machine them to the proper tolerance as OEM parts were not available. I was also wondering if anyone knew of such a service for ST,s as these parts are NA from Honda as far as I can tell. Thanks

 

[Sadlsor]

There is more going on at the back wheel and hub, than just the shaft and pinion bits. Both the rear wheel and the drive spline have bearings that also require inspection / service, especially at that mileage and that age.
Just for giggles, do you have any idea of the service history for this bike?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Check the rubber dampers and aluminum inserts in the rear wheel for wear/looseness.

 

[W0QNX]

It could be the drive shaft spline pinion cup. That is the point where the drive shaft connects to the rear end. Easy to check when the wheel is off just remove the 4 nuts and slide the rear end back and pull the drive shaft out of the pinion cup.

 

[Igofar]

I'll take a stab at it...
If yours is a 2000 ST1100A, most of the parts for your rear wheel and driveshaft are still available through RonAyers.com

2000 Honda ST1100A A REAR WHEEL (2) | Ron Ayers

Shop online for OEM REAR WHEEL (2) parts that fit your 2000 Honda ST1100A A, search all our OEM Parts or call at 252-758-3084

www.ronayers.com

Number 9 (flange set, final driven) is still available, as well as the rear wheel damper rubber bits Number 1 on the parts fish.
Your U-Joint is also still available
JOINT, YOKE
40200-MY3-003
Retail Price: $185.02
Your Price: $149.86
I would start inspecting stuff, before you start throwing solutions at the problem, which can be very costly, if you don't know what the cause is.
I would also start checking all the bearings as well.


Find the cause of failure, instead of throwing solutions at a problem.

 

[Corvair]

Sorry about posting twice. I’m not much good with computers. I’m also not much of a mechanic. I think I’ll take it apart and take it to some one who knows what they’re doing. The answer to the other question is no. I’m the third owner I think. I have been pretty good about normal maintenance but the last time I changed the rear tire I replaced an 0 ring in the hub and greased it with the approved Moly but didn’t know enough to check the stuff mentioned. Thanks for the replies I’ll keep you posted as to the outcome. Thanks Again

 

[Uncle Phil]

Might be the metal/rubber inserts in the real wheel are worn.
This can cause a clink/clank when you take off and accelerate.

 

[static]

If your EZS wheel is like mine, the Honda dampers (rubber and aluminum pieces) won't fit. DCA motorcycles (https://www.dcamotorcycles.nl/) are the current owners of EZS.

 

[SMSW]

Given the number of horror stories here about Honda mechanics making mistakes on these bikes, I would suggest you go to the top of this page, blue band and click on Riding > RAN List >USA. (> = click on). The Rider Assistance Network is a list of owners who will help out in a pinch. You have at least one listing roughly half an hour away. Give a call and take your parts to another owner before you head off to a dealer.

 

[Al st1100]

it it a one time click, clunk or is is a constant noise while acceleration ? For giggles check the heat shields, they crack around the mounting bolts and can make a strange noise at times.

 

[Corvair]

It is primarily noticeable in first and second gear uless accelerating very slowly. I tried the address you posted but found no information. at 75 I am a two finger computer guy. I would really like to be able to find that list. Back in the 60,s through the 90,s the Air Head BMW guy,s were unbelievably helpful no matter what your problem. If the group you listed is anything like that it would be a lifesaver . I,m not sure if you can PM on this. sight or if I am allowed to. give you my email address. I really appreciate your effort. Thanks

 

[W0QNX]

It is primarily noticeable in first and second gear uless accelerating very slowly. I tried the address you posted but found no information. at 75 I am a two finger computer guy. I would really like to be able to find that list. Back in the 60,s through the 90,s the Air Head BMW guy,s were unbelievably helpful no matter what your problem. If the group you listed is anything like that it would be a lifesaver . I,m not sure if you can PM on this. sight or if I am allowed to. give you my email address. I really appreciate your effort. Thanks

You should be able to click the text below and it should link you to the US RAN list.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/pages/RAN_US/

 

[Larry Fine]

Before I replaced the rear drive cushions, the rear end would give out a loud bang as the drive fingers hit the ends of the slots.

 

[newtonhubcap]

You should be able to click the text below and it should link you to the US RAN list.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/pages/RAN_US/

Wanted to ask how someone gets added to the "Ran List"?

 

[SMSW]

Wanted to ask how someone gets added to the "Ran List"?

Click your cursor on your screen name in the upper right corner of this page (to the left of the envelope symbol) > Account Details. Scroll down and you will find RAN options. Fill out the various sections and there you have it. Any more questions, ask @Mellow