St1100 AY Clutch judder

[The Trooper]

Hello all,new member posting!

I have recently replaced the clutch on my ST,on stripping the bike down I found the metal plates had blued and the two outer friction plates were showing signs of advanced wear.
So I replaced the friction and metal plates and the springs.
When the bike is hot I get a judder as the clutch fully engages when pulling away.Once rolling the clutch is smooth as silk.
I'm not getting any noises or slipping just the judder.

I've searched this problem on the forum and most seem to point to the metal plates for juddering?
Also saw a post relating to cush drive rubbers in the final drive,could this be a possibility?

The bike is rideable as is,just wondered if I could cure the judder?

Any ideas welcome

 

[wjbertrand]

What kind of oil are you using? My ST1100 did this but only when cold. The Judder was accompanied by a rather loud squawking noise too. New friction plate and springs fixed it in my case.

 

[The Trooper]

10w40 Semi-Synthetic,the brand escapes me....

 

[bdalameda]

It's called clutch chatter. It is usually cased by automotive oils with higher anti-friction additives. It can cause the fiber plates to get a glaze on them as well. Sometimes just changing to a JASO motorcycle oil will stop the chattering. The chattering does not really hurt anything but it is annoying and the faster you start off from a stop when slipping the clutch the worse it will get. I have seen this happen on many different motorcycle types and brands. Older Suzuki GS motorcycle are known to do this. Many time the only way to resolve this is to replace the fiber clutch plates. It is interesting that on some bikes this happens when the oil is cold and others it will start squawking after the oil is hot.

 

[The Trooper]

Already replaced all the clutch plates and springs.Hence my confusion at still getting chatter. I could understand it with the old clutch plates,not with a new clutch.

 

[Sunday Rider]

Cheapest way to find out is use motorcycle specific oil to see if that helps. Doesn matter synthetic or not ( I know I am in danger of setting up an oil thread)
Mine does this when hot and on stop and go traffic; disappears as soon as I get moving even a bit. Mine has 118,000 miles on original clutch.

 

[diferg]

After market, OEM replacement or reinstalled original clutch springs? I always shop for slightly heavier springs when replacing clutch.

 

[The Trooper]

Oem replacement springs and motorcycle specific oil.

 

[Al st1100]

Oem replacement springs and motorcycle specific oil.

is this on a hard acceleration from a stop ? If so this is normal caused by drive shaft "dumper" see #4 https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1997/st1100-a/primary-shaft

 

[ST1100Y]

Did you soak the new friction plates in the designated engine oil prior installation?

 

[Upt' North]

If you haven't already it could be worth checking out the drive rubbers and metal inserts. They can and do wear and at least it would rule them out. You'll need moly paste if you're going in there and there are three seals to change if they're buggered.
Although if this only started after the clutch rebuild?
Upt.

 

[St-Gerard]

Soaking the friction plates before installing is most important. If you didn't, run the bike for about 10 minutes with the clutch handle pulled in ,at about 2000 rpm (in neutral ) that should get oil on all of the friction material. Shut it off and let the oil soak in for twenty minutes ,and then hopefully go for a smooth ride. Cheers

 

[The Trooper]

Yes,soaked the friction plates overnight.
Will check out the drive rubbers.
The old abused clutch did the same thing.
I'll report back anything I find.
Thanks for the replies

 

[Larry Fine]

If you haven't already it could be worth checking out the drive rubbers and metal inserts.

Replacing these parts, if worn out, improves the bike's ride like a new chain on a chain-drive bike.

 

[SMSW]

Your clutch should have smooth engagement from first engagement. It will be smooth once underway because once rolling, it acts more like a light switch - on or off with no slippage as you change gears. To get underway, you are depending on smooth friction between the plates to gradually transmit power from the crank to the transmission. Juddering usually indicates warped plates or damaged friction material. Energy saving oils can also ruin the friction material, but you used mc specific oil so we can rule that out.

Looking at the manual, I assume you replaced all 7 friction disks and all 7 clutch plates, checked the spring lengths (yes, even though they were new), and checked the spring seat and friction spring? All new parts were Honda brand? Did you check the new plates for warpage on a flat table (again, yes, I know they were new - my auto mechanic complains ad nauseum about defective OEM parts from Honda, Toyota, everyone, in fact). And tightened the bolts in a criss cross pattern?

Is the hydraulic clutcn up to snutf? Fresh fluid and no air bubbles? I'm just going back to basics here and checking all the boxes.

 

[St-Gerard]

How are the slots in your clutch housing and inner hub? Are they pitted from the plates rubbing on them.

 

[Upt' North]

Yes,soaked the friction plates overnight.
Will check out the drive rubbers.
The old abused clutch did the same thing.
I'll report back anything I find.
Thanks for the replies

I think your trouble may be further back then. You can get pattern parts for the drive bits as well as oem.