Doing some clutch work on my high mileage ST today and took a few pics. The bike has 380,000 kms on the clock (236,000 miles) and this clutch is original.
I am also doing a complete makeover of the auxiliary electrical system, replacing the water pump, oil pump, timing belt, belt tensioner, idler pulley, replacing all the fork internals, as well as all the regular maintenance. And I have a lot of regular maintenance to do on the KLR, too!
The bike has a ton of stuff removed, including the forks and radiator.
I was having a hard time holding the clutch still to remove the nut. My solution was to wire it up. It worked. The nut was tapped at the factory to indent a portion of the center of it into a slot in the shaft, to form sort of a woodruff key. This bend had to be straightened out to remove the nut. (30mm)
Another view.
Another view of the bike. Battery and grey side panels are removed for electrical work.
Here is the clutch out of the bike. The part on the right inserts into the center of the clutch plates on the left. There are ten frictions plates, and nine plain steel plates between them. The two friction plates on each end of the sandwich are different part numbers than the others and look slightly different.
The clutch housing coming out of the bike. Inside the bike, the gear on the crankshaft is visible in the upper right portion of the cavity. It is cut on an angle and engages with the gear on the housing.
Springs on the back to reduce shock to the drivetrain in case of sudden engagement of the clutch. In the center of the clutch housing, you can see the long roller bearing.
Inside the engine, the chain drives a gear for the oil pump. Splines on the shaft engage the center portion of the clutch assembly. All of the forward torque of the engine which pushes the bike forward is applied to those splines. They look fine on both mating surfaces on my machine.
Lots of new parts to go back on this machine. The black plastic panels have to come off so I can do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys.
I am also doing a complete makeover of the auxiliary electrical system, replacing the water pump, oil pump, timing belt, belt tensioner, idler pulley, replacing all the fork internals, as well as all the regular maintenance. And I have a lot of regular maintenance to do on the KLR, too!
The bike has a ton of stuff removed, including the forks and radiator.
I was having a hard time holding the clutch still to remove the nut. My solution was to wire it up. It worked. The nut was tapped at the factory to indent a portion of the center of it into a slot in the shaft, to form sort of a woodruff key. This bend had to be straightened out to remove the nut. (30mm)
Another view.
Another view of the bike. Battery and grey side panels are removed for electrical work.
Here is the clutch out of the bike. The part on the right inserts into the center of the clutch plates on the left. There are ten frictions plates, and nine plain steel plates between them. The two friction plates on each end of the sandwich are different part numbers than the others and look slightly different.
The clutch housing coming out of the bike. Inside the bike, the gear on the crankshaft is visible in the upper right portion of the cavity. It is cut on an angle and engages with the gear on the housing.
Springs on the back to reduce shock to the drivetrain in case of sudden engagement of the clutch. In the center of the clutch housing, you can see the long roller bearing.
Inside the engine, the chain drives a gear for the oil pump. Splines on the shaft engage the center portion of the clutch assembly. All of the forward torque of the engine which pushes the bike forward is applied to those splines. They look fine on both mating surfaces on my machine.
Lots of new parts to go back on this machine. The black plastic panels have to come off so I can do the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys.
