ST1100 Clutch Replacement

[paulcb]

I'm thinking I want to replace the clutch on my 2001 ST1100 with 158k miles on her, commuting being about half of that. FWIW, I've done several automotive clutches, but never a motorcycle clutch. A few questions to those that have done this...

1. The Honda manual says I need to remove the right exhaust. Is this a requirement?
2. I plan on replacing the springs and friction discs, but should I replace the steel plates as well?
3. Sourcing OEM parts from Partzilla will be ~$400, including a new slave cylinder (not sure I'm replacing this, mine seems fine and it's $108). Can anyone recommend a source for the complete kit, i.e. EBC or such?

I don't have any problems now (no slipping under heavy load) but engagement seems to be further out, and I've got the 7 day LDX rally this summer and don't want to be worried about my clutch. This is my list so far, what am I missing other than maybe exhaust gaskets?...

Spring	22401-MT3-000	5
End Friction Disc	22201-MA7-000	2
Friction Disc	22201-MY3-000	8
Steel Plate	22321-MT3-000	9
Cover Gasket	11342-MY3-000	1
Slave Cylinder	22860-ML7-010	1
CSC Gasket	22862-MGJ-D00	1
Oil Seal	91204-MB0-013	1

Comments/suggestions are much appreciated.

 

[Larry Fine]

I haven't done my ST, but I did rebuild the clutch on my '73 CB750 years ago. I did not replace the steel discs.

Do remember to soak the fiber discs in clean bike engine oil for perhaps as much as 24 hours before assembly.

 

[ReSTored]

I guess my question would be if no slippage.............. why would you want feel the need to do this at all?

Nothing wrong with proactive preventative maintenance, but if no real issues with the clutch, why are you feeling compelled to do anything.

 

[paulcb]

I guess my question would be if no slippage.............. why would you want feel the need to do this at all?

We’ll, that’s a really good question, glad you asked.

I’m tempted to just let it go until I start to feel slippage at high loads, but if I’m out on a ride, could I go another 2000 miles to get home? Also, it “seems” to engage later than it used to, and it does have 160k miles on it. I’d really rather not do it right now, as I’m getting short on time to do it. I welcome any additional input on this.

 

[Larry Fine]

A hydraulic clutch should be "self-adjusting" like brakes; the fluid goes into the line and slave cylinder as parts wear.

 

[bdalameda]

The St1100 clutch usually don't fail right away - the failure mode is usually feeling a slight slip when in 5th gear and accelerating as if to pass a car. Usually simply reducing throttle slightly will allow the clutch to hookup again. I would not be afraid to ride for an extended time if you were to feel the clutch beginning to slip. In most cases the clutch plates are not worn but the clutch springs tend to lose tension over time. If your bike is ridden long distances and you tour mostly the clutch will last almost forever.

 

[Al st1100]

used to rebuild automatic transmissions. The clutch basket and plates are similar. Hi mileage baskets had a lot of wear where the ears of the clutch plate make contact with the basket. A little wear is ok so and yours may be fine . Just say'in

 

[George]

On my 200,000 mile 91, I replaced only the Springs. Eliminated the slight slippage under load. The old springs were measurably shorter than the new.

And, yes, the right exhaust header must be removed. But, no, you dont need to drain the oil. With the front end elevated just an extra little bit, the oil levelis below the front edge of the clutch cover opening.

 

[jfheath]

Check the brass bush and push rod in the lever assembly. Make sure the push rod fits in the side hole of the bush, and there is no debris in there.

 

[Upt' North]

David Silver Spares

David Silver Spares specialise in Honda motorcycle parts from the 1960's to 2001 models

www.davidsilverspares.com

 

[paulcb]

Check the brass bush and push rod in the lever assembly. Make sure the push rod fits in the side hole of the bush, and there is no debris in there.

Thanks John. I assume you're speaking of the bush in the lever. I believe it's good since I replaced it about 20k miles ago, but will look at it closely.

 

[woodybelle]

Paul I have a 1300 but I had the same concern as you but at 85,000 miles. The lever was engaging when it was almost all the way out but it did not slip. I found that the plates were all in spec but at the thinner end and the springs were just in spec also. I replaced the springs and friction plates and now the clutch engages closer to the grip and feels like new.

 

[jfheath]

Thanks John. I assume you're speaking of the bush in the lever. I believe it's good since I replaced it about 20k miles ago, but will look at it closely.

Yes - if the lever is tight and the clutch is disengaging in the first movement of the lever, there is a chance that the push rod is pressing on the outside of that brass bush when it should be inserted in the hole in one side of the bush. Its an easy assembly error, as you cannot see whether the push rod has gone into the hole or not. I mark the top of the bush with a felt pen to show where the hole is when I am bringing the lever, the bush and the pushrod together.

 

[Smudgemo]

I dunno, my old man always told me if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
But (no judgement from me) if you are set on doing it, I'd do it soon so you have lots of miles prior to the trip to make sure it's working properly. And I hope your trip is great.

 

[ST1100Y]

...my 2001 ST1100 with 158k miles on her, commuting being about half of that.

...I wouldn't be surprised if the friction plates where due...

The Honda manual says I need to remove the right exhaust. Is this a requirement?

I removed the heat-shields, flanges off the down-pipes, the one bolt holding the collector box (above main-stand) and lowered the forward section with the silencers still attached to the footrest plates
So you'll need the 4 copper crush-gaskets for the down-pipes, maybe some of the short M6 bolts holding the heat-shields (they like to snap...)

I plan on replacing the springs and friction discs, but should I replace the steel plates as well?

Unless badly abused (hence discolored) the steel plates should be OK
Observe their orientation in the clutch basket and ensure to arrange them identically upon installation.
Check basket for wear-marks as shown in @Al st1100 posting, if significant, replace basket too
Soak the new friction plates in the (forthwith used) engine oil before installation.

Paper gaskets for the housing and receiver cylinder, overhaul kits for MC and SC while at it anyway...

And not to forget: proper clutch holding tool, electric impact wrench, torque wrench...
I've ground down an old screwdriver to have a chisel/wedge to unlock the securing lip on the clutch central nut prior loosening; if you can open that without destroying the ring/lip you can reuse the nut, otherwise order a new one

My clutch wrench:



makes this job a breeze...

Working on a bike lift it's like a 4 hour job...

 

[Larry Fine]

Soak the new friction plates in the (forthwith used) engine oil before installation.

Why used oil, and not fresh?