ST1100 Driving Lights

[PmodelinUS]

I am looking for a good reasonably priced set of driving lights. I am amazed at how bad the headlight is. I swear my 86 Magna had a better light. I'm sure it has nothing to do with the fact I was 19 then and my vision was better. Anyways, LED would be nice but not mandatory. Thoughts?

 

[Larry Fine]

Replace your headlight bulbs instead. Read as much as you need to here. You may need to do a new search as some of the links may be too old:

H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6 | Lighting / Visibility

I am getting questions about not being able to find the Evitek G6 bulb. I too needed to get another set and could not find them either. So I did some looking around. There is a lot more stuff out there now and confusing! In 2017 they came out with the T8 bulb with a fan and the S1 bulb without...

www.st-owners.com

 

[rwthomas1]

Oh boy, there is about 10 hrs of reading on this subject. The solution is buy a Euro headlight and install some Evitek LEDs. Fixes the problem, figure $200-250, all the light you need from the stock location, no fabrication or installation woes from auxiliary lightning. One and done.

RT

 

[Ron]

The 1100 Euro headlamp housing is hard to find new. I bought one from a European breaker (junk yard). The shipping was more than the lamp housing but I had it on my porch from the Netherlands in 3 days. I think the total was about $160 plus LED lamps.

 

[STRider]

Why the Euro shell? Save me from searching and add knowledge to this thread...

I installed 100/55W bulbs in my North American shell (albeit I modified my shell with a Dremel to accept the conventional H4 tab arrangement without the need for shims or clipping tabs).

Of course I also have PIAA 910 driving lights on Ron Major mounts as well, but I'm generally happy with the just the standard low and high beams with that bulb upgrade. Should either of them blow at this point I'll likely convert them to LED.

 

[kiltman]

Why the Euro shell? Save me from searching and add knowledge to this thread.

The Euro shell accepts a standard H4 bulb. No need to use shims and remove the tabs on an H4 bulb.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Shims are pretty cheap ....

 

[rwthomas1]

I ordered my Euro headlight from https://www.boonstraparts.com/en Nice used unit, shipped to me in 3-4days. If you go that route, be advised there are the Euro and UK versions. You want the Euro version, and they are usually clear in the description. My impression is the beam pattern is better in the Euro than the DOT. Many are happy with the DOT and LED's. Mine had a chip, so since I was buying one, might as well go Euro....

RT

 

[ST Gui]

Anyways, LED would be nice but not mandatory. Thoughts?

First go with LED and shims/adapters. Aside from deciding which LEDs you want (hint: F2 or equiv.) it's the quickest way to get the best all around lighting for your bike that will likely be street legal with minimal impact on your charging system and oncoming traffic.

That gets you vastly improved light you can use – now. Like right now.

Driving lights are pattern specific and many Amazon and other "driving lights" aren't driving lights at all but more so floodlights – legal (for those that care) for off-road use only. This means you won't get the coverage and lighting you want and may impair the vision of oncoming traffic.

Actual good driving light kit (lights/harness/relay/switch/etc) can all be added if and when the spirit moves you. Picking good lights that will actually improve your riding experience isn't to be taken lightly.

The Euro spec headlight shell is the very last thing I'd consider. Legal or not (that doesn't matter to some) is its beam pattern conducive to improved lighting on US roads? If so good. Then find one that's in a condition that's satisfactory at a price you're willing to pay.

A wise man once said "Shims are cheaper".

 

[jrp]

LED headlamps and shims is the way I went also and have been satisfied with the results. Made a world of difference for night driving.

 

[rwthomas1]

DOT regulations lagged behind the Euro regs in the 80's and 90's most definitely. Changing from DOT to Euro headlamps in the BMW's, MB's and VW's I've owned has made a huge difference. Improved beam pattern, better throw, side fill, etc. Properly aimed, they pose no threat to oncoming drivers here in the US. The reality is if they did blind oncoming drivers, why would they work so well in Europe? I'm quite sure that simply upgrading the low wattage Honda specific bulbs to correctly designed LED's, installed with shims, in the standard DOT housing is a nice upgrade. But the Euro headlight is that much better again. I know. I've ridden behind both. In the grand scheme of things, a used Euro headlight is inexpensive compared to many, many other mods. RT

 

[Sunday Rider]

I upgraded to the Euro headlight more than 10 years ago, there weren't LED replacements at that time, only HID.
The Philips MotoVision H4 were also great bulbs that put out a lot light compared to OEM bulbs
The Euro headlight puts the light where you want it. I used to ride a lot more in the dark (pre-dawn) when I commuted with the bike.
I have one H4 LED and 1 Philips MotoVision in there now, with under the mirror LED aux lights and I can see a lot better, now that my eyes are old. When the MotoVision finally burns out, I will put in the other LED.

 

[STRider]

Why the Euro shell? Save me from searching and add knowledge to this thread...

The Euro shell accepts a standard H4 bulb. No need to use shims and remove the tabs on an H4 bulb.

My impression is the beam pattern is better in the Euro than the DOT. Many are happy with the DOT and LED's.

As I suspected.

I've shared this tip several times in earlier ST forums as well as this one I think.

Unless the arrangement of the retaining bails changed after the 1991 model year, it's easy to use a Dremel tool or equivalent to cut new slots in the rim of the bulb receptacle to accept the conventional H4 tab arrangement, P43t, rather than the PX43t 65-degree style that Honda chose for the North American ST1100. Then you can use ANY H4 bulb found in auto and motorcycle parts stores everywhere in the event you blow a bulb on the road too.



No shims, no wires, no trimming tabs, NO COST if you already have such a tool or can borrow one.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

The Euro’s beam pattern is better. I’ve had one installed on my 1991 for years (thanks, Bill Rankin!). I have an H4 in the left and an HID in the right. The American headlight module has a DOT mandated ‘attenuator’ in the left lens/reflector (John Parker {RIP} documented how to remove it, I can try and find the link if asked) limiting full use of the reflector. BTW, each reflector can be adjusted separately. FWIW

edit: http://johnandbecci.info/Hints/exorcism.htm

John

 

[Ron]

I don't have the longevity or miles some of the guys around here might have but I have been riding an 1100 for more than 20 years. I'm not blinded by Honda pixie dust. That blew off many miles ago. I have also owned 5 other bikes and ridden several more. I long ago realized Honda missed the boat on a couple items and on a couple more they weren't even close to the harbor. The head light is one of those misses. Having ridden behind the Euro and the US head lamp for many miles, the US version is a poor second. Price is a consideration but I needed a new one (mine was chipped) so I went with a Euro one. As several posters have said, the difference in the light pattern is definitely there. I used the shims for years. It was better than using the Honda 45/45 lamps. Having an ABS model, and large hands, changing the lamps were a pain. As for shims and wires and whatever else, they just complicated the job. With the Euro, the lamp goes in one way/one place. The price wasn't really a consideration as I needed a new housing and it wasn't much more. I have had an 1100 around forever and some of the parts and pieces have been on several bikes. An example is a set of highway pegs, my Steed Sticks. I've had them for at least 15 years. I put them on my latest acquisition, a beautiful red '97. They have been on several STs including an 1100 in the Iron Butt. I also have a set of Hiway Wings and a MCL set. The head lamp will probably be the same way. It's a hobby. I compare it to the guys that spend a zillion dollars for a bass boat, another zillion for a truck to tow it and a zillion on rods, reels, etc. and only take it out a couple times a year.

I recently decided to go with the LED lamps in my latest ST. It came with the pitiful 45/45 lamps with one of the low beams burnt out. I bought another Euro lamp housing. There is probably someone that could do it but for me, installing the LED lamps with the housing still on the bike would have been an impossibility. I got the lamps and housing installed and the bike back together. It took all the adjustment to lower the lights to a view of my liking. I will look into a fix when I go back into there next time.

 

[STRider]

The Euro’s beam pattern is better. I’ve had one installed on my 1991 for years (thanks, Bill Rankin!). I have an H4 in the left and an HID in the right. The American headlight module has a DOT mandated ‘attenuator’ in the left lens/reflector (John Parker {RIP} documented how to remove it, I can try and find the link if asked) limiting full use of the reflector. BTW, each reflector can be adjusted separately. FWIW

edit: http://johnandbecci.info/Hints/exorcism.htm

John

Thanks John... I have vague recollections of having seen John Parker's webpage in a prior STOC life. I personally wasn't up for the risk/reward that undertaking offered. With the 1300 sucking up all the oxygen in my garage I doubt I'll devote much effort beyond and H4 LED upgrade should the Edison bulbs give out.

 

[STRider]

I compare it to the guys that spend a zillion dollars for a bass boat, another zillion for a truck to tow it and a zillion on rods, reels, etc. and only take it out a couple times a year.

Yeah, but think of all the free fish they catch!

 

[Ron]

Most are catch and release. But yeah, the fun is in catching them! Free, on the other hand ....

 

[Larry Fine]

The reality is if they did blind oncoming drivers, why would they work so well in Europe?

Depends on light output symmetry and which side of the road they drive on.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

John Parker discusses the individual reflector adjustment screws in this article (I have one of the Baja Designs HIDs in The Grey GhOOST):

HID Upgrade for the Honda ST1100