Sorry, i know this has probably been debated to death but i just cannot make my mind up. I do know that my next bike is going to be a pan euro but i am just not sure what to do. Is the St1300 dangerous? Is the St1100 just a better designed bike? Help!
St1100 or St1300?? Which should i buy?
- Thread starter drawderm
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Sadlsor
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- 2008 ST1300A
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- 9065
Have you ridden either or both?
Seems like a logical place to start. Each model has its own group of ...ah, groupies, or devotees.
Naturally I love my 1300, or I wouldn't still have it.
But there also are those here, some respectable even, who couldn't be separated from their 1100s with dynamite and 10,000 dollars in gold bullion. So don't try.
One such is on his thirty-fifth ride to Alaska, as I type this, and he has eight of the blooming 1100s back at The Holler.
But do ride each, and look for the good deals on either, which are out there waiting for you to ride home.
Good luck... looking for bikes is fun.
Seems like a logical place to start. Each model has its own group of ...ah, groupies, or devotees.
Naturally I love my 1300, or I wouldn't still have it.
But there also are those here, some respectable even, who couldn't be separated from their 1100s with dynamite and 10,000 dollars in gold bullion. So don't try.
One such is on his thirty-fifth ride to Alaska, as I type this, and he has eight of the blooming 1100s back at The Holler.
But do ride each, and look for the good deals on either, which are out there waiting for you to ride home.
Good luck... looking for bikes is fun.
ToddC
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1300
Why? Age, parts, rusty swingarms,
Plus the 1300 just looks better.......
Why? Age, parts, rusty swingarms,
Plus the 1300 just looks better.......
Parts are getting hard to find for these bikes, some are no longer available from Honda (both 11 and 13 parts). Consider that the early 11's with a 28 amp alternator are living on borrowed time until you put in the 40 amper (parts are hard to find, but someone made the adapter plate). If you find an 11 with the larger alternator, there are no major issues - just parts that are difficult to locate. The 13's up to and including '07 model year are prone to a failing ECU (computer). The fix is a replacement, and these are less plentiful than hen's teeth. After '07, these bikes have the usual teething problems, little drips from the hoses, and are often plagued by a poor history of routine mainenance. For example, if the PO did not flush the brakes and clutch hyd systems regularly, you can expect to change the Secondary Master Cylinder on the front wheel and replace the clutch slave cylinder. Both parts are still available, the former costs around $200 last I looked (a couple of years ago) the latter, I don't know. The clutch slave will take maybe 4 hours to swap out, with some guidance from the peanut gallery here, and probably a few whispered incantations from you. The SMC is relatively easy to change.
I was a 13 owner until the bike gained weight and I decided to downsize. My recommendation would be to buy the youngest bike you can find, ideally a police model newer than '11. Many more parts are still available for these. I think the last of these were 2017 (plus or minus a year). Why a P bike? They came with a sexy switch complex on the right handlebar that allows you to add all sorts of things without aftermarket and kludgy switches. If you ride 2 up, however, a P bike will need a 13's rear subframe and pillion seat to give it the standard 1300's configuration.
BTW, the guy who has 8 of the 1100 model has 4 working bikes and 4 for parts. Emulating him might not be a bad idea.
Meanwhile, read this: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/maintenance-items-needed-for-a-new-old-bike.176679/
I was a 13 owner until the bike gained weight and I decided to downsize. My recommendation would be to buy the youngest bike you can find, ideally a police model newer than '11. Many more parts are still available for these. I think the last of these were 2017 (plus or minus a year). Why a P bike? They came with a sexy switch complex on the right handlebar that allows you to add all sorts of things without aftermarket and kludgy switches. If you ride 2 up, however, a P bike will need a 13's rear subframe and pillion seat to give it the standard 1300's configuration.
BTW, the guy who has 8 of the 1100 model has 4 working bikes and 4 for parts. Emulating him might not be a bad idea.
Meanwhile, read this: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/maintenance-items-needed-for-a-new-old-bike.176679/
Sunday Rider
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The 11 guys are older and wiser and will encourage you in that direction. If you like to work on your bike the 11 is the one. No fancy electronics either. The known weaknesses have been documented. Parts, well that’s another story. I might buy 3 to part out to fund my retirement. I’ve never ridden a 13 so my opinion is biased. As Sadlsor says you should ride both if you can to see which one appeals to you.
That's me! I have two non-ABS 1100s, both run perfectly, as reliable as my '96 Nighthawk 750.
It appears that you are in the UK. I do not have either (just the first Honda V4), but given your location, ToddC's point about swingarms is valid. I have seen a number of threads on reconditioning ST1100 swingarms (and all the opinions on trying to rebuild or protect). Seems that the only sound replacements are available in North America, from the parts that are too cold for winter riding.
Plus the ST1300 does not have carburators, balance with the fact that the the 1100 does not depend on as much computer control of the engine operation - i.e. computer issues with the ECM/ECU. Pick your poison.
Looks are subjective. Fit on either can be customized to a point.
Neal
Plus the ST1300 does not have carburators, balance with the fact that the the 1100 does not depend on as much computer control of the engine operation - i.e. computer issues with the ECM/ECU. Pick your poison.
Looks are subjective. Fit on either can be customized to a point.
Neal
It is said that the 1300 is more sport than tourer and the 1100 is more tourer than sport.
If my main concern was high-speed cornering, I wouldn't be riding either one of these.
I guess that makes me more of a tourer, but the 1100 suits my sport riding needs just fine.
If my main concern was high-speed cornering, I wouldn't be riding either one of these.
I guess that makes me more of a tourer, but the 1100 suits my sport riding needs just fine.
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Sadlsor
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@SMSW has some good specifics, while I tend to just wander about, and use generalities.
All the above are a great overview odmf the pros and cons of both.
Good luck, and if you don't tell us what you get and post pictures, welllll... let's just say we have resources to deal with people who don't.
All the above are a great overview odmf the pros and cons of both.
Good luck, and if you don't tell us what you get and post pictures, welllll... let's just say we have resources to deal with people who don't.
Your question is sorta like an oil thread lol. I prefer the ST1100 to me it's the cat's meow. So I ain't getting rid of mine anytime soon. With that being said I know many here think the same about thier 1300's. You are going to have to ride both models to see which one suits you. As for me mine sits at 85K plus miles and if and when she bites the dust I'm ready to move on from the old Honda sport touring machines. Ready for more modern Iron.
Smudgemo
Intermodal Man of Mystery
The 1300 ECU would be the deal-breaker for me. I sold both of my 1100s because I couldn't quite get the fit sorted as easily as the '08 GS I bought, but fantastic machines.
I'm not even sure what THAT is suggesting
Never had an ST11, but two ST13s ... the only dangerous thing about it were the inattentive cagers on the road around us.
Well, one out of two isn't bad....
Hi all, thanks for all the useful responses. I have not ridden either the 1100 or 1300 although i have been to see a 2001 1100 today and a 2006 1300 last week. I wasn't able to test ride either as i didn't have insurance and private owners in England do not let others ride without insurance and/or paying the full asking price in advance. Anyway, to make a long story short, i've taken on board the advice here, what i've previously read and observed and decided to go with the ST1100 i seen today!! I have paid the seller a deposit of £100 and i plan on paying the balance of £1400 on Tue when i go and pick it up. It seems to be in good cond, including the swingarm, engine sounds sweet, plastics seem in good cond, swingarm and bearings seem fine, wheel bearings good, no leaks from forks and no movement in front stem bearings. It has 36k mls which i feel is quite low. In England, you can check the mileage on a government website going back several years so i know the mileage is genuine.
Attachments
You won't be sorry! Just take your time getting used to the height and weight.
Those mirror covers/turn-signal housings are not easy to replace.
Sunday Rider
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Sunday Rider
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Well there are a few young ones!Well, one out of two isn't bad....
Erdoc48
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I really like that- I guess I am biased to the 1100, and 36K miles is barely broken in. As for maintenance, it’s a pretty straightforward bike to maintain (and although parts are becoming more rare, they’re not impossible to find, except for maybe some of the body panels)- I think it will treat you right and 1500 pounds (whatever that is in US, probably ~ $2200 or so), the price is very good For a bike that will last for a really long time.
I will recommend doing some research here as the gurus have torn these down and reconstructed them- there’s lots of maintenance guides here (as well as videos on YT) and I for one knew not at all how to do some of this work- just learned by trial and error (happily, very few errors).
I will recommend doing some research here as the gurus have torn these down and reconstructed them- there’s lots of maintenance guides here (as well as videos on YT) and I for one knew not at all how to do some of this work- just learned by trial and error (happily, very few errors).
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Thanks all, i am the kind of owner who likes to get dug in!! The first job is to give it an oil and filter change, check wheel bearings, check cond of plugs and air filter and maybe clean off some surface rust from the wish bone and paint it for annual vehicle check. This is called the MOT in the UK which is compulsory on any mechanically propelled vehicle over 3 years old. Over the winter, i plan on removing the wish bone and maybe getting it blasted and then painted with a good quality paint. Seen some really interesting videos on youtube on Wishbone repair and painting to stop it becoming an issue again..
The first job is to give it an oil and filter change, check wheel bearings, check cond of plugs and air filter and maybe clean off some surface rust from the wish bone and paint it for annual vehicle check. This is called the MOT in the UK which is compulsory on any mechanically propelled vehicle over 3 years old. Over the winter, i plan on removing the wish bone and maybe getting it blasted and then painted with a good quality paint. Seen some really interesting videos on youtube on Wishbone repair and painting to stop it becoming an issue again..