Article [11] ST1100 - Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder

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CYYJ

CYYJ

Michael
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Hi Ian:

As others have noted, it is not necessary to replace the seal unless you have reason to do so. But, whenever I have any of those hydraulic fluid reservoirs open, I always remove the seal, wash it carefully in warm soapy water, inspect it for wear or damage, and then let it air-dry thoroughly before re-installing it. The seals will accumulate dust and crud on the upper surface because the upper surface is exposed to atmosphere. They also seem to accumulate some kind of scum on the lower surface.

Michael
 
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Hi Ian:

As others have noted, it is not necessary to replace the seal unless you have reason to do so. But, whenever I have any of those hydraulic fluid reservoirs open, I always remove the seal, wash it carefully in warm soapy water, inspect it for wear or damage, and then let it air-dry thoroughly before re-installing it. The seals will accumulate dust and crud on the upper surface because the upper surface is exposed to atmosphere. They also seem to accumulate some kind of scum on the lower surface.

Michael
In hydraulics, as in many other things, cleanliness is next to godliness.

Pete
 
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Hi all,
I've barely ridden my 2000 ST1100 since I bought it used with only 1,788 miles on it. The carbs have yet to come off for their rebuild, but I am making progress.
I noticed that the clutch is not working now, no resistance. The fluid appears to be low and I assume there's air in the system. There must be fluid leaking somewhere, but not sure where. There's nothing leaking onto the ground, so I'm wondering where this fluid is going. I ordered all clutch slave gaskets and seals and plan to replace them all, then bleed.
I'm assuming I'll need to unbolt the right exhaust as described.
Perhaps this would be a good time to install an aftermarket exhaust. Has anybody tried the Delkevic system? If so, which mufflers?
Thanks, CobraRGuy
 
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Hi all,
I've barely ridden my 2000 ST1100 since I bought it used with only 1,788 miles on it. The carbs have yet to come off for their rebuild, but I am making progress.
I noticed that the clutch is not working now, no resistance. The fluid appears to be low and I assume there's air in the system. There must be fluid leaking somewhere, but not sure where. There's nothing leaking onto the ground, so I'm wondering where this fluid is going. I ordered all clutch slave gaskets and seals and plan to replace them all, then bleed.
I'm assuming I'll need to unbolt the right exhaust as described.
Perhaps this would be a good time to install an aftermarket exhaust. Has anybody tried the Delkevic system? If so, which mufflers?
Thanks, CobraRGuy
I just did these jobs on my 1991. Search on 'ST1100 Refurbishment', published last week. Hoses, carbs, lots of little stuff and a new Delkevic system with 27 inch mufflers. Photos and my overblown commentary.
 
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CYYJ

CYYJ

Michael
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I noticed that the clutch is not working now, no resistance. The fluid appears to be low and I assume there's air in the system.
Before you go down the path of disassembling or replacing the clutch master cylinder (or any other parts in the hydraulic clutch system), read post #18 in the discussion Brakes - Operation of the Master Cylinder. There is an undocumented requirement to crack the banjo fitting at the clutch master cylinder to let trapped air out of a high point in the fluid path.

After I replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my ST 1100 (documented in the first post of this thread), I spent hours unsuccessfully trying to refill the clutch system hydraulic fluid and get the clutch working. I had no luck until some other forum members mentioned the need to crack the banjo fitting at the end of the clutch master cylinder and let the trapped air out of the system at that point. As soon as I did that, everything started working.

Michael
 
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BTW, I was able to get the 'tough' bolt out and in of the clutch slave cylinder with a little careful prying.
A long heavy duty screw driver and close attention to what direction you need to pry. ;)
Recently renewed my clutch slave, had no problems with the "problem" bolt at all.
I suspect due to a non oe exhaust being fitted.
If memory serves it was a full Motad stainless system I fitted many years ago.

:grn11:
 

Uncle Phil

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Recently renewed my clutch slave, had no problems with the "problem" bolt at all.
I suspect due to a non oe exhaust being fitted.
If memory serves it was a full Motad stainless system I fitted many years ago.

:grn11:
Motad makes some good stuff - they probably fixed the 'design issue' which would not have taken much!
 
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Motad makes some good stuff - they probably fixed the 'design issue' which would not have taken much!
You could be right there, Exhaust was a pig to fit, spent several hours chasing it around the garage floor, then it just dropped into place for a perfect fit.
:grn11:
 

Ron

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I swapped out my clutch master and slave cylinders at the same time. When everything was installed, I move the handlebars so that the top of the MC was horizontal. I filled the MC to the top with fluid. I laid down on the floor with a couple rags and a bleeder size wrench. Loosened the bleeder about 1/4 turn. Eventually, fluid started leaking from the bleeder. I caught a small amount on a rag. Tightened the bleeder. After I squeezed the lever a few time, I took the bike off the stand and started the bike. Clutch worked fine with no need to do the old pump and dump routine.
 
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I used this forum and article along with the service manual to do the following.

Background:
The gearbox and clutch functions were very good and BumbleBerry performed flawlessly during the first months after purchasing her and prior to my maintenance. From the clutch fluid reservoir's viewing window, I could see that the DOT4 fluid color was darker than usual. But when it came to do the maintenance, I was really shocked when I removed the master cylinder cap and looked inside! Many of you know the liquid consistency of DOT4 fluid. Opening the clutch fluid reservoir was similar to opening a jar of Vaseline! with a quarter coin size amount of really brown DOT4 fluid in the middle! I was really amazed how the clutch and brake systems still performed.

Before removing and overhauling the clutch master cylinder completely, I decided to first overhaul the Clutch Slave Cylinder (CSC).

First I took pictures of the orientation of the clutch line. There's a much better photo by CYYJ.

IMG_20211205_111320764.jpg IMG_20211205_111304225.jpg

Then, I loosened the banjo bolt using a socket wrench. This step makes it easier to later remove the clutch line when CSC is removed.
There are three bolts that hold CSC. The most challenging and infamous is the lower left bolt (looking directly at the CSC). It is behind the exhaust pipe which makes it almost impossible to use a socket/ratchet wrench. After reading CYYJ's complete instructions, I decided to give it a try and see if I can open it without removing the exhaust pipes. I used an open spanner for this one bolt and took my time. It was very time consuming because the range of rotation for the spanner was very limited, but I managed to remove it. The other two bolts were easy and I used socket wrench.

Note: when removing the bolts, make sure not to loose the Dowel Pins. It’s also a good practice to keep track of which bolt goes where.

Once bolts where removed, I removed the CSC (still attached to the clutch line). I used the clutch lever and pumped the clutch so the cylinder would come out. The last bit took a little bit of manual work, grabbing the cylinder and removing it. Make sure to have a pan under the bike to collect old DOT4 fluid.

The inside of the CSC
IMG_20211205_123041339.jpg

The cylinder housing with slave cylinder still inside.

IMG_20211205_123054785.jpg


I removed the banjo bolt, bleeding screw and lay all components apart on a towel.

IMG_20211205_123923732.jpg

They were really dirty and grimy with years of neglect.

IMG_20211205_123930178.jpg

For cleaning, I used shop towels, very soft plastic tooth brush, new DOT4 brake fluid, and non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
Make sure you have good lighting, so not to miss any small spot.
I ordered all new rubber seals, gasket, and spring. The housing and slave cylinder piston are clean and spotless.

IMG_20211205_152202962.jpg

Please note the orientation of spring and slave cylinder cup.

IMG_20211205_153417573.jpg

I also cleaned the housing thoroughly. The old gasket took a long time to remove. I used lots of brake cleaner to soak it and then used a sharp razor blade to remove it, small bit by small bit.

IMG_20211205_161039383.jpg

I also removed Clutch Lifter Rod in the center of the housing and cleaned it. Note which end sticks out and which end is inserted (I hear some guys still can’t figure it out!)
I was told that I could have changed the oil seal (the one clutch lifter rod is inserted in the last photo) without opening the clutch cover, but I didn’t bother since it looked fine.
After making sure all parts are clean and spotless, I applied DOT4 fluid on seals and inside of the housing. The housing was put back in place and bolted down. The infamous bolt took a while to tighten, using an open spanner.
After overhauling the clutch master cylinder, I refilled the clutch system with fresh DOT4 fluid and bled the system thoroughly.
Thanks to CYYJ's post, I was able to do all that, great reference.
 

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PmodelinUS

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Wow what. Great and timely article as this is on my winter to list so it really helps. My hope is this fixes my clutch only grabbing the last 15 percent st most. Rebuilt the master cylinder this fall. Good look on your clutch issues.
 
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