ST1100 shifting techniques.

[Sadlsor]

I would call the splines-tweaking an adjustment to the rider's physique and personal preference, moreso than a "calibration."
We're not talking stoichiometric balancing here, or some other engine tuning, just making it fit one's foot and ankle biomechanics.
Or is it ergonomics?
Need an engineer to help me dig out of this hole I've made...

 

[ST1100Y]

The splines are a part of the shifter hight tuneup and can be mounted in lots of different positions right?

Nope, they're coded...
The punch-mark on the clamp must align with the punch-mark on the shaft, won't go on otherwise...
You'll find out eventually...

 

[Sadlsor]

I sit corrected -- again.
Most bikes I've owned allowed for moving the shift lever up or down by removing it, and reinstalling it a spline or two off the original position.
Except for dual sport bikes (as I'm wearing big klunky boots), I've never had to do that on a road bike.

 

[Mr.E]

Sorry if I'm stating the obvious, I'm sure all know gear lever adjustment is only available on Bar item 13 below, then lock off with nuts 14 & 19.

 

[huntingdog]

I am with Sadlsor on this one. My ST can be adjusted with different placement on the splines.
Here is a pic from the net ( I googled ST1100 shifter linkage) and this is what poped up


As you can see this shifter has the notch you are talking about in it. Mine doesn't. I am starting to think that my shifting problems maybe a part of not properly placed shift linkage on the shifter shaft. But how can I place it correctly when I don't have a notch to go by?

 

[Larry Fine]

But how can I place it correctly when I don't have a notch to go by?

Your natural foot angle varies with the length of your lower leg.

Go by what feels best to your foot and gives you positive shifts.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

After '91: Align the wide groove on the gearshift arm with the wide tooth on the gearshift spindle.

 

[dwalby]

I am with Sadlsor on this one. My ST can be adjusted with different placement on the splines.
Here is a pic from the net ( I googled ST1100 shifter linkage) and this is what poped up


As you can see this shifter has the notch you are talking about in it. Mine doesn't. I am starting to think that my shifting problems maybe a part of not properly placed shift linkage on the shifter shaft. But how can I place it correctly when I don't have a notch to go by?

no need to remove the splined part, the shaft shown in the picture adjusts the height of the shift lever. Break the nuts on both ends loose (one is regular thread, one is left hand thread, but I don't recall which is which), rotate the shaft and the lever height will adjust up or down to your desired level, then tighten the nuts.

 

[huntingdog]

no need to remove the splined part, the shaft shown in the picture adjusts the height of the shift lever. Break the nuts on both ends loose (one is regular thread, one is left hand thread, but I don't recall which is which), rotate the shaft and the lever height will adjust up or down to your desired level, then tighten the nuts.

Yes that is correct. However I will try to set it at the factory position and also it maybe needed if the shaft adjustment is not enough.

 

[huntingdog]

Okey. So here is what I have done so far.
PS. I made this sketch in paint using a laptops touch pad, so it is not very good but it will show you what I did better than me explaining it by text

This sketch is as if you are looking at the shifter linkage and shifter shaft from the front of the bike.


So the connecting rod was halfway screwed in so that the shifter is at the correct level. I unscrewed it so it is at it's maximum safe length ( while letting some thread left to be on the safe side) and moved the gearshift arm clockwise.
If I put it as it is in the first drawing the shifter lever is just too low and can't be operated. Maybe on later models that have the groove in the splines the connecting rod is longer?

The results: Shifting from first to secont is done in the same maner as described before. All other upshifts are done while with only the index finger quickly tapping the clutch lever while in the same time flicking the throttle to unload the transmission, in the same time preload is put on the shifter and I shift up as fast as posible. The result is smooth and very fast upshifts with no grinding or cluncking. Downshifts are done as normal, again keeping the movement on the fast side.
So the repositioning of the shifter linkage did make a big difference to how the shifts feel and are done towards the positive side .