Does anyone have a link to a post with photos and instructions on installing a Works Performance ST1100 (non-ABS) Fork Spring kit? I did a search but did not find a link with photos.
Tom
Tom
ST1100 Works performance fork spring kit
- Thread starter ennacac
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Uncle Phil
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TOM - I've installed them in both of ABS ST1100s and they pretty much mirror what is in the Clymer/Haynes/Honda manuals with the instructions that come along with them. The only thing that I ran into was that the 3" preload spacers (gray plastic PVC pipe) sent with the kit were way too long. I ended using about 1 3/8" which feels right to me. Just lay out the stock springs beside the new two piece Works Springs to see what your preload should be. The comparable lengths of the old and new setups should be close to the same. The more preload, the stiffer the front end. BTW, I also used 10w Honda Fork Oil. Good luck!
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UP's post kind of covers what I mentioned about cutting the spacer. Since I hadn't done it I before I had no idea how you know how much to cut. That makes sense to compare them to stock. Over time as the stock ones wear out they are the same length when new as far as I know. They just loose some of the springyness. Since they are not adjustable for preload you kind of have to go with what you think is right. It is a lot of work though to make adjustments.
I just ordered a wilbers 640 shock but now I need to think about the fork springs. do you think progressive type springs are best Uncle Phil?
and will they need these spacers fitted for preload. it says nothing in the Haynes manual about spacers as far as I know.
If you do any kind of front end 'tuning' with the springs, you'll want to experiment with the preload spacers. Since the right leg is a bit of a pain to change the spacer, put a nominal size in there and leave it alone, then change the left side to various lengths until you find the feel you like best. Leave the bar cover off and you can swap out a new spacer in just a few minutes. I've never noticed any difference between dividing the preload spacers evenly between the two forks, or having them a little different on each side, the bike will feel the same either way (for the same total preload that is). Cut yourself some 1" PVC pipe in 10mm length increments, and try a few different lengths until you get the response you like best. Also, heavier fork oil will make a change in the front end feel as well, so if you plan on changing the fork oil, do that first before finally dialing in the preload with the spacers.
Uncle Phil
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Progressive springs (type of, not the brand) are supposed to give you the best of both worlds - cushioning and performance. I went with Works Progressive Springs in the front of my 2 ABSII bikes. They come with a pre-cut spacer (section of PVC pipe) but it was too much for me so I shortened it to 1 3/8". I like a good stiff suspension since I'm a big guy and usually pack pretty heavy. One thing to consider on a side note - I believe the Yamaha FZ1 has 43 mm forks just like the ST1100 ABSII and they have pre-load adjusters in the caps. I would be willing to bet the caps have the same thread pattern and would probably work on the ST1100. ;-)
Thanks for the replies guys. I haven't a clue really so its going to be trial and error to get it right. The guy I am getting the wilbers shock from is their agent in Ireland and they also do wilbers fork springs for the st1100, either straight rate or progressive, I can't imagine there is that much difference between different manufacturers of springs? their product is supposed to be tried and tested and specific to the st1100.
He runs a motorcycle suspension shop and has never heard of anyone putting in pieces of pvc pipe to increase preload on a spring, although he has never done the forks on an st1100 before.
He runs a motorcycle suspension shop and has never heard of anyone putting in pieces of pvc pipe to increase preload on a spring, although he has never done the forks on an st1100 before.
Wow, not exactly confidence inspiring, but springs aren't all that complicated anyway. People have been using PVC pipe to preload forks for decades, hard to imagine him never hearing about it.
Regarding the job you're heading into, trial-and-error is the standard approach, and should produce a result that you're happy with. Trial and error is always necessary because there's no magic setting, everyone's weight is a bit different, how much stuff they load on the bike is different, and what kind of ride they're looking for (sporty and firm, plush and soft, etc.) is different. The ST isn't a racebike, its not like minute differences are going to matter much anyway. Just try enough different settings so that you get a feel for what YOU like and don't like, and it should be obvious when you hit the correct setup for YOU. Also, don't be surprised if you find the right setting, then ride around on it for a few days or weeks, and decide you want to tweak it a bit differently later on.
Thanks dwalby,
I suspect he's been used to more modern bikes with adjustable forks,I will be installing these springs and new shock myself anyway,his shop is around 400 miles away,thats alot on this small island of Ireland!!
I weigh around 240lbs suited up so I'd imagine UP's 1 3/8" spacer mightn't be far of for me
I can't wait now to get the new suspension installed.
Ha ha, from your avatar picture I envisioned some grizzled old gray haired guy who's been working on bikes in rural Ireland since the mid-'50s out of some old rusty shack. I forget how old and low-tech the ST1100 is, but you're right, any bike made in the last 15-20 years with a decent suspension has had external adjustments for preload, and both compression and rebound dampening. I actually owned one of them, but crashed it a couple of times so its no longer in my garage, so I sometimes forget how technology has advanced since the ST was designed.Thanks dwalby,
I suspect he's been used to more modern bikes with adjustable forks,I will be installing these springs and new shock myself anyway,his shop is around 400 miles away,thats alot on this small island of Ireland!!
I weigh around 240lbs suited up so I'd imagine UP's 1 3/8" spacer mightn't be far of for me
I can't wait now to get the new suspension installed.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Yes, because there is no other way that I can figure that you could change the preload on ST1100 forks without the spacer - unless you could find fork caps that had a preload adjustment built into them. You might tell him that your front forks have no preload adjuster and see what his response is.
LOL, well you got the grizzled and the rusty shack part right anyway
my vfr800fi is also 01 like my st1100, it's a pity they didn't put the same type of forks in the later model st1100's.
Thanks Uncle Phil, yeah I will let him know that and see what he comes up with,be interesting to see what answer wilbers have themselves to the issue.
I'll keep you poSTed anyway on how it turns out.
I think he meant it as a rhetorical question, as the answer is obvious. Fork caps that have a preload adjustment on them have a threaded rod or rotating cam that acts like a screw on the top of the spring inside the fork. As you turn the adjuster the spring is compressed more/less based on which way you turn it. If your fork cap doesn't have the external adjustment capability, your only option is to remove the cap and mechanically compress the spring with a spacer. the adjustment is then based on the length of the spacer you use.