ST1300 ABS problem? Are my wheels binding?

[rob_toast]

Hi, it was recommended via a Facebook Pan owners group that I join this for technical advice.

This is my first Pan and have just freshened up a seldom used 7k mile 2004 bike. All fluids changed, new pads all round. Everything seemed in good order, low owner and dry stored bike.

Now I bled the brakes without checking the sequence and missed the PV valve. I then was told about it... My wheels appear to be binding. I don't recall what they were like before but compared to other bikes I've had there is virtually no free wheeling. The wheels turn and the resistance is even, but there is resistance.

I have now re bled the brakes correctly and the resistance is still there. Possibly slightly better than before. Am I over thinking this? Is it normal for these wheels to be stiff?

Would welcome your thoughts!

Rob

 

[Mellow]

Welcome... there is some friction there even when working properly.

Some common issues with an older bike and also being in the UK where you get a bit more corrosive issues related to the environment, the SMC (Secondary Master Cylinder) can be an issue.

Here are a few articles to browse to get yourself familiar with the system but sounds like you're on a good path so far.

1300 brakes

www.st-owners.com

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Front and rear, or rear only?
Seldom used low mileage older ST1300 with a binding rear wheel is almost certainly an SMC that has bit the bullet and needs to be replaced.
If both front and rear are binding you probably still need a new SMC, but there might be some other issues.

Have a look through the below to get some information to start you off;
ST1300 Maintenance - Brakes- Avoiding the Pitfalls

 

[bstig60]

Welcome!

 

[rob_toast]

I have read this. Interesting about the pad heat shields. They were on the old pads so I transferred to the new ones I got. I don't recall the make, a good one but not OEM.

The front wheel is worse than the rear but I'm starting to think it may be ok. Riding wise I don't feel a problem. I might slip those shields off.

 

[Igofar]

I have read this. Interesting about the pad heat shields. They were on the old pads so I transferred to the new ones I got. I don't recall the make, a good one but not OEM.

The front wheel is worse than the rear but I'm starting to think it may be ok. Riding wise I don't feel a problem. I might slip those shields off.

The OEM Honda pad material is thicker on the rear, and thinner on the front pads.
If you purchased EBC pads, or similar aftermarket pads that did not have the heat shield, and transferred the OEM shield over to the new pads, you have more than likely caused much of this problem yourself.
the EBC pads often have fitment issues, and adding material to them, will most likely bind stuff up.

 

[wjbertrand]

The heat insulator should only be on the rear brake. There might not be room for them at the front.

 

[core-aggie]

Wow ... when I first read this post, I thought, "didn't we just go thru the same scenario a couple weeks ago??


BTW, to the OP ... if the new pads are EBC, replace them with Mother Honda pads.

I did the same thing with my first ST, and removed them after about 1,000 miles - they are cr@p pads for an ST.

 

[jfheath]

Ah - you found us !

Welcome. Much better on here than all of the rubbish that I have been reading on the facebook pages.

You said that yor wheels were binding ? Plural ?
If the front wheel is binding, then if it is due to the brake pads on the front left caliper, that will cause the rear wheel to bind.

There should be no white heat shield on the front pads. There is no need - they get plenty of cooling air blasted onto them. When the pads are new, there isn't any room for them. The front brakes drag, that applies the secondary master cylinder on the front left caliper which applies the back brakes.

So eliminate any brake drag on the front first. Particularly the front left.

Brake drag on the front can also happen if the front wheel has not been installed properly. This can happen at any time by anyone who thinks that putting in a front wheel is simply pushing in an axle and tightening a few bolts. There is a specific sequence to follow. Get it wrong and the caliper will push the pads against the disc. This will definitley produce the symptoms that you describe, although I cannot guarantee that this is the answer in your case.

See this - another of my offerings.

(6) Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Front & Rear Wheel Install and Front Axle Animation | ST1300 Articles | ST-Owners.com

 

[rob_toast]

More interesting info... thanks.

I used ferodo pads and will remove the shields. I'll look at that link in a sec re wheel. I just put the axle back through, tightened it and then did the pinch bolts.

 

[Igofar]

Make sure you didn’t put the left wheel spacer in backwards.

 

[jfheath]

If it gets a bit desperate, I'm only at the other end of Ilkley Moor. About 10 miles if you go past Dick Hudson's

 

[rob_toast]

If it gets a bit desperate, I'm only at the other end of Ilkley Moor. About 10 miles if you go past Dick Hudson's

Thanks, big help. I have gone through the wheel procedure and removed the heat shields from the front pads. The front at least spins on its own a bit now. Not much but a clear improvement and that might be a characteristic of this bike. I'm more used to the feel of car wheels in this respect.

My first holiday on it to Scotland on Tuesday looks less in jeopardy now! Just about to do a test ride...

 

[rob_toast]

Thanks all for your input. I have now also removed the rear heat shields and despite the piston already being pumped quite a way out, removing the shield has made a big difference. Done a road rest and SMC working correctly and both wheels feel good.

HOWEVER.... seems to be a new problem. I think it's back brake related. I can feel and hear a vibration mainly through the footpegs at slower speeds. It did not occur on first road test with heat shield still in the rear. Rear shields also had a non metal part between the pad and shield. I'm thinking maybe put that back?

 

[jfheath]

The thin metal plate with the holes in it clips onto the outside of the pad backing metal is an anti-squeal device. The white pad of the same shape is supposed to be there on the rear pads.

Make sure that the tab end of the brake disk is properly located in its clip deep to the front end of the caliper. You can see the inboard one through the spokes. The outside one you need a mirror, or swing the exhaust out of the way.
Photos in my document Avoiding the pitfalls. Linked above.

Take it for a ride. At the back if that document there is a useful way of testing the behaviour of the brakes on the road.