ST1300 Engine noise

Igofar said:
Maybe, however it’s more of a FEEL as your taking off.
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OK here is the video of the bike running after warmed up.. You may have to turn down the volume a little-- I recorded it with the volume all the way up on my phone by accident..

Thanks for listening.... :biggrin:

 
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ST-Traveler said:
OK here is the video of the bike running after warmed up.. You may have to turn down the volume a little-- I recorded it with the volume all the way up on my phone by accident..

Thanks for listening.... :biggrin:

Click to expand...

That knocking is the clutch. Pull the lever in and it will stop. It is normal.
 
Igofar said:
Your adjuster is off a couple lines if you loosened it, started it, and listened for the noise.
That paragraph should not be in the service manual. That is for really high mileage bikes 300k that normal adjustments won’t work.
If you went back and did it again, you will find your adjuster is off etc.
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guess ill be discussing that with you as well after i fix the brake problems.
 
Raia said:
Does anybody know if out of adjustment shafts can cause code 25/26 ?
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If you are talking about the balance shafts, no. 25/26 is almost always caused by an ECU failure. You did not mention your bike's year below your avatar. '08 and later bikes had far fewer problems in this area than the earlier bikes. Rarely, someone has been able to fix the 25/26 code by replacing mouse chewed wires from the knock sensor or the sensor itself. If you have one of those codes and swap the sensors side to side, after a reset you should get the other code if one sensor was faulty. Otherwise, it's new ECU time.

If you determine you need a new ECU, P-bike computers have been cheaper than civilian bike ECU's on ebay (subject to change if the word has spread) and work fine. Just make sure your used replacement is of the same group (2007 and earlier or 2008 and later) and you know what your vendor's return policy is if you buy used on ebay. Most of the ebay units simply say...'was removed from a running bike' - and they have not been tested. Of course, if you buy new, it should work fine out of the box.
 
ASPC said:
That knocking is the clutch. Pull the lever in and it will stop. It is normal.
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We will have to agree to disagree on that one.
While it has some of the typical Honda clutch basket rattle, there also appears to have quite a bit more that what I would consider normal.....but that's just me ;)
 
As long as we are talking about adjustment of counterbalancers it should be said that this adjustment is a noise thing and not a smoothness thing. The counterbalancers are gear driven off the crankshaft. The adjustment only changes noise by altering gear lash of these gears and does not alter phase of the balance weights in relation to the crankshaft. The counter weights spin on stationary shafts and all the adjustments do is move the shafts laterally so the amount of gear lash or play between driving and driven gear changes. The crank drives the primary balancer which drives the secondary balancer. Too little lash and the gears whine and too much lash they growl or rattle. Adjustments definitely change gear noise at idle and off idle acceleration but cannot possibly alter primary and secondary vibrations.
 
Clearance between helically cut or even muncie 21 [near] straight constant mesh gears are one thing; they don't swing an A body or even I'd bet an inline 4 or 6 bike around at idle, even with destroyed outer race machinings; you have to start slipping the clutch to see the problem.
 
dduelin said:
As long as we are talking about adjustment of counterbalancers it should be said that this adjustment is a noise thing and not a smoothness thing. The counterbalancers are gear driven off the crankshaft. The adjustment only changes noise by altering gear lash of these gears and does not alter phase of the balance weights in relation to the crankshaft. The counter weights spin on stationary shafts and all the adjustments do is move the shafts laterally so the amount of gear lash or play between driving and driven gear changes. The crank drives the primary balancer which drives the secondary balancer. Too little lash and the gears whine and too much lash they growl or rattle. Adjustments definitely change gear noise at idle and off idle acceleration but cannot possibly alter primary and secondary vibrations.
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Dave,
Did you do this when you had your ST?
I gotta try to get my rattling noises down.
Wish me luck.
 
ST-Traveler said:
Dave,
Did you do this when you had your ST?
I gotta try to get my rattling noises down.
Wish me luck.
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Yes, I adjusted them once to see what it was all about. It's not necessary to repeat the procedure in the life of an average ST1300 or to even do it if there isn't excessive gear noise.

I don't think videos are very helpful to diagnose noise issues. Just my opinion they raise more anxiety than help. Riding reduces anxiety... we all need more of it.
 
Igofar said:
We will have to agree to disagree on that one.
While it has some of the typical Honda clutch basket rattle, there also appears to have quite a bit more that what I would consider normal.....but that's just me ;)
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Hey, so the noise in St travellers video is I believe what mine sounds like? Not while taking off so much as when on low idle. Still think it could be the adjustment or clutch basket? I’m still going to adjust the counter balance but?
Thanks
 
Just did mine...here are before and after(or maybe after and before) photos. The 10mm bolts were nearly seized, never done in 60000klm.
 

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Wow, that was quite a bit of adjustment you did there.
Just a question for you, did you start the bike, let it warm up, then try adjusting it by the sound it made?
If so, that could be why your adjustment lines were moved so much.
If you did it that way, you may want to re-visit it again, when cold, and just do the turn adjustment, then back one line on each one and compare the adjustments.
I think you'll find, that it will be a couple lines off doing it that way ;)
 
Igofar said:
Wow, that was quite a bit of adjustment you did there.
Just a question for you, did you start the bike, let it warm up, then try adjusting it by the sound it made?
If so, that could be why your adjustment lines were moved so much.
If you did it that way, you may want to re-visit it again, when cold, and just do the turn adjustment, then back one line on each one and compare the adjustments.
I think you'll find, that it will be a couple lines off doing it that way ;)
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I did it cold, according to the manual. Turn till tension, then back a line. It's pouring rain here and I'm not going to take a test ride just yet.
 
ST-Traveler said:
OK here is the video of the bike running after warmed up.. You may have to turn down the volume a little-- I recorded it with the volume all the way up on my phone by accident..

Thanks for listening.... :biggrin:

Click to expand...
That sounds like all the ST’s I’ve heard. ST music!
D
 
Duporth said:
That sounds like all the ST’s I’ve heard. ST music!
D
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Sounds and feels even better now--:biggrin: Larry (Igofar) helped me (via white courtesy phone) get the counterbalancers adjusted on the ST tonight. { see thread: "Igofar reviews" for full story}
After adjustment I can feel and hear the bike running smoother with less noise. It's hard to describe the feeling in the handlebars but I was so use to the bike running and rattling that way over time I had lost the memory of what it used be.
Initial impressions: the bike to me is way smoother at idle and much quieter. When I roll the throttle the smoothness is hard to describe---I remember this feeling to way back when the bike was brand new but had failed to recognize the gradual loss of the smoothness and quieter engine operating potential. -- Now it is back--!!!!
All I can say is my reaction was a feeling of dumbfounded that something so simple can make such a difference.
I didn't realize what was missing from so long ago.

I will take for a test ride as soon as all the rain passes in a few days. But for now I am very happy!!

Thank you Larry!!
 
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