ST1300 Heat Data

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Okay guys and gals, I have gathered some heat data on my ST1300 and would like to share it with you. How the study was performed:

1. The LEFT inner cowl was removed (actually it was already out for other reasons).
2. An Indoor-Outdoor digital thermometer was placed in both the right and left fairing pocket (yes, two thermometers were used, same brand) to measure the (indoor) temperature in the fairing pocket.
3. The outdoor probe was attached at the bottom of the fairing, right in front of the drivers feet
4. Both meters were cleared of their maximum temperature before starting the bike.
5. I recorded the ?Pre? readings of the indoor and outdoor temperature
6. I drove to work and immediately recorded the results of the thermometer, as well as the ?high? ambient temperature per the ST1300 thermometer.
7. Since there were some variations in the ?Pre? readings between the two thermometers, after 10 rides, I switched the thermometer to the other side and repeated the steps for another 10 rides.
8. I ?officiate? at a lot of bike races and I feel that I am more affected with the high heat generated by the ST1300 at these slower speeds, hence, I conducted two slow speed tests;
(a) I drove for 45 minutes at an average speed of 18 mph (a bit slower than normal, but faster than if doing a hill climb), recording the results as outlined above.
(b) I switched the digital thermometers from right to left and vice versa and repeated the test.

You can see my Excel Spreadsheet results in the attachment but here is my summary:

1) Without the inner cowl on the temperature readings are lower than the side with the inner cowl on.
2) Changes from Pre and Post is more pronounced the warmer the outside air temperature is.
3) Slow speed driving will not produce the same results, it is just as warm without the inner cowl in place. This is NOT good news for me as this is when I am (most) bothered by the heat. I can live with the heat during normal driving conditions, but at slow speeds, I am burning up!
 

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Blue STreak

Bob Meyer
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There was an article in MCN about a police departement that made several mods to address the heat. That's the US Motorcycle Consumer News, not the British rag.

There was a letter in the March 2010 issue asking about the Phoenix PD's use of ST1300s and their problems with, and solution for, the excessive heat reported by some riders.

Apparently the PPD initially rejected the ST1300 because of heat issues, but after testing some fixes, are now using them without heat related issues. The fixes implemented are:

1. Lowering the tank pads to better keep the riders legs from touching the tank.

2. Placing a heat shield under the tank, from frame rail to frame rail, to block heat transfer to the tank. The heat shielding is described as "the same kind used in engine compartments."

3. (One I've not read about before) They placed foam weather stripping between the lower side of the fairing cutouts and the cylinder heads. It says that by using a laser thermometer the PD found more heat coming through that gap than anywhere else on the bike.

I would think that 2 and 3 would make a difference at low speeds.

Some have also reported that adding the black panels that fill in the gaps below the seat make a difference. These were added in '09 and '10. There are several threads here about adapting them to earlier models.
 
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hojo in sc
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Yes, I read the article on the STP's. One thing that I did not mention for this study, is that have wrapped the pipes, I have put extra heat shield on the lower cowling (the one by the oil filter, it that is what it's called), and I have painted a heat shield material on the under side of the tank as well as the fairing. However, after all that, at slow speeds, it's still darn hot.
 
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Yes, I read the article on the STP's. One thing that I did not mention for this study, is that have wrapped the pipes, I have put extra heat shield on the lower cowling (the one by the oil filter, it that is what it's called), and I have painted a heat shield material on the under side of the tank as well as the fairing. However, after all that, at slow speeds, it's still darn hot.
Have you done the Starter Valves synch yet?

Maybe also try the Fuel Cut Eliminator?
 

Blue STreak

Bob Meyer
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Yes, I read the article on the STP's. One thing that I did not mention for this study, is that have wrapped the pipes, I have put extra heat shield on the lower cowling (the one by the oil filter, it that is what it's called), and I have painted a heat shield material on the under side of the tank as well as the fairing. However, after all that, at slow speeds, it's still darn hot.
Not sure painting the bottom of the tank is as effective as having a heat barrier between the engine and tank, but I don't really know. The ST runs hot, there's no denying it, and all the changes we make can, at best, only reduce the issue, not eliminate it.

What do you wear on your legs when you ride? I think riding in jeans is hotter than wearing riding pants over jeans, because the outerwear gives you another layer of insulation between your body and the heat source. I wear First Gear HT Air pants, and I think they're better than jeans alone.

A thought: It would seem the main reason it's hotter at low speeds is lack of airflow through the fairing. Would mounting a radiator fan or something similar, where the inner cowls normally go, help? They could be switched, so you can turn them on at low speeds in hot temps, and leave them off the rest of the time.
 
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hojo in sc
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Have you done the Starter Valves synch yet?

Maybe also try the Fuel Cut Eliminator?
Yes and no.

This study was done only to show what the temp. does when the inner cowling is removed, nothing more.
 
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hojo in sc
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Not sure painting the bottom of the tank is as effective as having a heat barrier between the engine and tank, but I don't really know. The ST runs hot, there's no denying it, and all the changes we make can, at best, only reduce the issue, not eliminate it.

What do you wear on your legs when you ride? I think riding in jeans is hotter than wearing riding pants over jeans, because the outerwear gives you another layer of insulation between your body and the heat source. I wear First Gear HT Air pants, and I think they're better than jeans alone.

A thought: It would seem the main reason it's hotter at low speeds is lack of airflow through the fairing. Would mounting a radiator fan or something similar, where the inner cowls normally go, help? They could be switched, so you can turn them on at low speeds in hot temps, and leave them off the rest of the time.
Again, this isn't about what I wear or don't wear, it is simply to show what the temp does when the inner cowling is removed. And yes, slow speed driving does not allow enough air to come in and blow the hot air out and that is why it is extremely hot around the rider. If you want to know what I wear, see the aviator to the left.
 

TXRoadRash

FWDoc
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Good info hojo. THanks for going to the length you did to gather and record the data. I've already insulated the pockets and underneath the tank on my ride -- and (given this info) I may just do another round of Winter mods...
 
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hojo in sc
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Good info hojo. THanks for going to the length you did to gather and record the data. I've already insulated the pockets and underneath the tank on my ride -- and (given this info) I may just do another round of Winter mods...
Thanks, there is one fella (sorry, I can't remember who) that did a study by putting the outdoor probe on the outside of his boots. I thought about doing it as well but that was just too many thermometers to keep track of for me.

I am thinking about the insulation, might need to do another study when/if I do it.
 

Blue STreak

Bob Meyer
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Again, this isn't about what I wear or don't wear, . If you want to know what I wear, see the aviator to the left.
Didn't mean to upset you, hojo. But you're having problems because of the heat, and I was just trying to offer some suggestions that might help. As for the pic, its a little small for my eyes to make out the details of what you're wearing.
 
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hojo in sc
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Didn't mean to upset you, hojo. But you're having problems because of the heat, and I was just trying to offer some suggestions that might help. As for the pic, its a little small for my eyes to make out the details of what you're wearing.
Sorry, didn't mean for it to sound that way, I just want to try to see this thread stay on focus of what the inner cowl removal does for normal speed driving; it confirms a lot of folks observation/perception.
 
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There was an article in MCN about a police departement that made several mods to address the heat...

3. (One I've not read about before) They placed foam weather stripping between the lower side of the fairing cutouts and the cylinder heads. It says that by using a laser thermometer the PD found more heat coming through that gap than anywhere else on the bike.
This is interesting to me. I'm not sure I understand the terms "gap" and "fairing cut-outs.." but if your referring to the rear section of the middle cowl right behind the cylinder heads (from the tank on down), then yes, I do understand you. I didn't realize that heat radiates from the seam between the tupperware and the exposed silver frame but it makes sense. There is a strip of black foam that lines the seam where the middle cowl and frame meet. This cheapo-beapo foam is only seen when the tupperware is off, but is this the area that was "weather stripped" by the STP modifiers?

I've already written how the MCL highway pegs allow me to get my legs away from the body of the bike to air out and cool off. I have also been seen riding as a bull-legged cowboy, with my knees pointed straight out, trying to achieve the same relief. I just got tank pads for better rider control with the hopeful, secondary benefit of shielding my inner legs from radient tank heat but you have me thinking that it's all coming from where the fairing meets that frame behind the cylinder heads.

Thanks BlueSTreak, for your info and thanks Hojo, for your very complete study on temp readings. I've wondered about the inner cowls myself.
 
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My (new to me) 04 came with the inner cowls removed. I replaced them for one test ride and then removed them again immediately. There was a noticable increase in heat around my legs.

However, I would prefer to have the inner cowls in place, because they tend to hold the upper and lower cowls in better alignment. I'm thinking of modifying the innercowls by cutting as big a flap as I can fit in each, and then bending the flap to produce an air scoop (rather than drill holes as others have done).
 
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I just bought a 2005 ST1300 with all standard factory equipment. I had heard about the heat on the lower legs of the rider and read all about it before I test rode the bike. I bought the bike and took it on a couple of 30 minute rides in June in Mississippi with ambient temperature about 85 degrees. The heat on my legs was unbearable; I'd say barbeque is a good description of the temperature.

Then I took off both upper inner cowlings with no other changes, and rode again. There was a noticable decrease in heat felt on my shins - I'd say 10 to 20 degrees F. It's still hot but bearable. Now it only feels like about 110 degrees. I definitely recommend removing the cowlings as a first step.

Note for those of you who want to remove the cowlings, they are black plastic and are easily accessible from the area to the rear of the front forks in the area around the radiator by removing a few plastic removable expansion/pop rivets and a few screws. Remove only the upper cowls and leave the lower in place. You'll have to detach the temperature sensor from the cowl on the starboard side and secure it with a small wire or zip tie. The whole job really only takes less than 15 minutes once you figure out what you are doing.
 
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I too have read the MCN article of the PPD heat fixes for the "ST".

But has anyone found a part name, part number or specific description for the under the tank "heat shield" that the PPD uses ?
Quote: "the same kind used in engine compartments." (a tad vague)

Even here in Massachusetts with the 90+ degree summer we have had - that tank sure do get HOT !!! ;)
 

hojo70

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I too have read the MCN article of the PPD heat fixes for the "ST".

But has anyone found a part name, part number or specific description for the under the tank "heat shield" that the PPD uses ?
Quote: "the same kind used in engine compartments." (a tad vague)

Even here in Massachusetts with the 90+ degree summer we have had - that tank sure do get HOT !!! ;)

I imagine any heat shield material would work. I googled and came back with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029KC2K/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000E243AW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05D720FGZRWHRKK3SXMJ


I've seen posts over the last year or so of riders here using similar types of materials such as mylar faced bubble wrap or reflective insulation to successfully insulate the cowling.
 
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My bike has been much cooler since I did the FCE mod... I had already done an insulating blanket under the Top Shelter
 

NCrider

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My bike has been much cooler since I did the FCE mod... I had already done an insulating blanket under the Top Shelter
I asked about heat difference on the FCE thread but didn't get much response.

So far I've remove inner cowls, then trimmed them don't to just a skeleton.
Throttle body sync
Wrapped the headers
I wear full gear, I've tried shorts and jeans under my riding pants.
Also have 2 different boots, ankle and some up to my knee...tried shoes too.


And I'm still burning up, it's getting old.

I've got Delkevic exhaust on order....if that don't fix it I may try the FCE or it may be time to trade bikes.
 
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