Article [13] ST1300 - U-joint Remove/Replace

Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

In my case, never felt any vibration.. but the spinning of the rear wheel would make a noise that 'I thought' was due to the new dampeners I installed for no particular reason.. sounded just like you were compressing them.. so I figured it was just 'cus they were new but the more I looked at the rear wheel action, the light bulb went off.

Here's my vid of the noise/action I was getting - The 1/2 of the u-joint on the engine-side will only turn with the output shaft, the one on the driveshaft side need to not only turn but also rotate while at an angle as the swingarm moves up and down. Mine was failing at the engine-side so I think that particular failure bought me some more of an indication. I do believe if you are feeling some excessive vibrations it's time to pull over and check it out.. I'm just not sure how much of that happens before the failure is so bad the swingarm is toast as well.

[video=youtube;otnNHbI-EiM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otnNHbI-EiM[/video]

Yes, that is the noise that I heard tonight when I had my bike on the center stand and I ran it in second gear. How much time should I allow for the U-Joint replacement procedure and do I need any special parts in addition to the gasket? I have the hex wrench and swingarm socket wrench.
 
Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

Yes, that is the noise that I heard tonight when I had my bike on the center stand and I ran it in second gear. How much time should I allow for the U-Joint replacement procedure and do I need any special parts in addition to the gasket? I have the hex wrench and swingarm socket wrench.

I didn't really go from start to finish without stopping. Sorta did a little one day and more the next but I think 1/2 a day of work, 1 full day if you take your time and take breaks. That includes taking the plastic off and the rear wheel.. The hardest part is getting that rubber boot back on, the rest of the job is just a typical replacement procedure. Really not too bad at all.
 
Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

I'm getting together a misc parts order for anything else I'll need while replacing the U-Joint. Can you think of anything else I'll need - say maybe the oil seal washer part #14 in the diagram below?

I already have the U-Joint and the boot part #5.
 

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Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

say maybe the oil seal washer part #14 in the diagram below?

The driveshaft and that oil seal came out with the final drive, so even though it's showing at the forward section of the drive shaft it's pressed into the final drive.
 
Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

I'm taking apart the motorcycle now to replace the U-Joint. In following the manual, it states to remove the right step holder. In order to take off the right step holder I need to drain the rear brake system. Did you guys do that?
 
Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

Not at all.
 
Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

Completed the task of replacing my U-Joint. My old U-Joint at 34,000 highway miles showed signs of wear but did not have damaged bearings on either axis. It was, however, significantly more loose than the new U-Joint I installed. Also of note, the rubber boot between the swingarm and U-Joint was stretched and needed to be replace. So I replaced that too.

The task was fairly simple and straight forward and took me about 10 hours to complete. But, I did spend a good amount of time continually referring to the Service Manual along the way for direction and torque values on all the bolts. If I had to do it again with what I know now I estimate the job would only take me about 5 hours including all plastic removed and replaced.

The drive train noise is now gone. I believe while the U-Joint didn't fail outright it was worn to the point of making noise. Glad I replaced it.
 
Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

Good work Bob. :yes: Do you happen to have some pics of the worn boot?
 
Anybody want to ride out here in a couple of months and assist me with changing my U-Joint. It will have 100k miles on it and I have been thinking about a preemptive R&R on the U Joint and all wheel bearings. Probably tackle that job after the holidays. Jan or Feb time frame. Bob could you give a parts needed list for the U-Joint replacement.
 
Re: ST1300 - U-joint R/R ( remove / replace )

Good work Bob. :yes: Do you happen to have some pics of the worn boot?

I don't have any pics. The opening that goes over the lip on the engine casing expanded - I guess with heat. As a result, it did not form a tight seal on the engine casing. Glad I had an extra one.
 
Anybody want to ride out here in a couple of months and assist me with changing my U-Joint.

Will anyone without a snowmobile be able to get to you in a couple months? LOL

I think you've handled worse jobs than this one so it's 'technically' not something I would think you'd have an issue with. It does help to have an extra set of hands though. If the weather cooperates and I can get a day off for a long weekend I'd give it a shot, just need to know when and it would have to be in 2012 because I don't think I have any 2011 vacation days left.
 
Will anyone without a snowmobile be able to get to you in a couple months? LOL

I think you've handled worse jobs than this one so it's 'technically' not something I would think you'd have an issue with. It does help to have an extra set of hands though. If the weather cooperates and I can get a day off for a long weekend I'd give it a shot, just need to know when and it would have to be in 2012 because I don't think I have any 2011 vacation days left.

Yea I could do it by myself but it is always more fun with friends to look over your shoulder and assit.:D About the weather see my reply to the earth quake in OK/Kansas.:D:p:

Re: I felt the ground shake in Kansas
Fred and Gang, You guys are getting worse than California. Dust Storms, Wind STorms, Ice Storms, Fire Storms, Extreem Heat and Cold, Tornados, Now the Ground is Shaking. And you all tease us about our little bit of snow that we have here in Colorado. Glad all is OK and you and bikes are safe.
 
I was doing a service and found two inches of back lash in the rear wheel when in gear.Mellow i see you had found the same on your bike,but later changed the U joint due to the noise and video posted.How much play did you have after the replacement.
 
I was doing a service and found two inches of back lash in the rear wheel when in gear.Mellow i see you had found the same on your bike,but later changed the U joint due to the noise and video posted.How much play did you have after the replacement.

Mine wasn't in gear, it was in Neutral... so in that situation it should spin freely given the brake pads aren't slowing it down... the drive train - in Nuetral - will still slow down that spin but mine would stop then move back the other direction about an inch or two because the u-joint was binding. Try it in Neutral.
 
I'm about to start work on replacing the U-joint and trying to figure out how to make the locknut tool, especially how to create the necessary measurements. I plan on using a dremel on a 1 1/4" socket, but would appreciate hearing any specific techniques used. I'd rather not have to go through several sockets if I can avoid it.
Thanks for the help.
JimS
 
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