The wires from my starter relay are getting really hot. I have put a new relay onbut still have the same problem,she still starts and runs ok , can any of you guys steer me in the right direction.
hi john, it did, the relay had started to melt but the connector is still ok so you recommend the bypass ? thanks paulHi Rob. My guess is it's not the relay wires, but is the main fuse (red) lead. You might want to do the bypass mod just for peace of mind. Wait too long and you might end up like this:
Amazingly, this ST was still running this way, but wouldn't have lasted for very much longer. I cleaned it up for my friend and did the bypass.
Regards, John :STOC:
thanks for your input guys the work begins tonightI would clean all the connections, replace the starter relay AND clean the starter switch fully and apply some dielectric grease.
Cover all eventualities and you should be okay. You may have to replace the connector to the relay also and lengthen the wires that go to it.
This had been done on my previous ST, but re-occurred, which as far as I could make out, was due to the starter button/switch getting dirty.... this caused improper operation of the starter relay due to lower current through the energising coil, this leads to drop out of the relay when the starter engages as the relay energising coil terminal voltage drops even further.... heat builds up in the relay and voila, relay overheats.... I think the battery suffers as well due to rapid transitioning on and off load as the relay chatters.....
Well that's my take on it anyway....
Aha... it WAS in the ST1100 Archive Of Wisdom! Thanks, Julien. I didn't use the right search word(s). Rob connected his to the 96-02 OEM 55amp fuseable-link/fuseblock that he installed when he upgraded to the 40amper. With a 28amper I'd go direct to the battery.I think this is it John. It's labelled as "Main Fuse Upgrade".
http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=3923.0
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier, Gerry. Built in to your 96's air-cooled 40amp alternator; a separate, standalone unit on 90-95s with oil-cooled 28amp alternators.... One thing though - VRR?
Hi.N.B. - Also, looking at the 28amper's wiring diagram, the red-w/white-stripe wire at the red 4P is still needed by the VRR and still requires fuse protection. It can either continue to use the 30A main fuse in the starter-relay/main-fuse unit (assuming it's still functional), OR it can also be snipped and spliced into the new inline fuse holder along with the red wire.
John
N.B. - Also, looking at the 28amper's wiring diagram, the red-w/white-stripe wire at the red 4P is still needed by the VRR and still requires fuse protection. It can either continue to use the 30A main fuse in the starter-relay/main-fuse unit (assuming it's still functional), OR it can also be snipped and spliced into the new inline fuse holder along with the red wire.
Kairo,Should i then splice it into the new inline fuse as mentioned above, or get another inline fuse ?