Stick's valve adjust

[George]

Just finished STick's adjustment. First time for her in ~130,000 miles. She's had one tight intake (#1 front) for quite a while, but only .001.

So, this check showed 8 tight valves, that particular one tight by .003. Time to bite the bullet, put my nose to the grind stone and shoulder to wheel. (Just try working that position! )

I did ReSTored last week, changed 12 shims but none were that far out.

Turns out #2 front intake was also at .003, and rear was .004, #4 intakes were .005 and .005.

#1 Exhaust front was .008, all other exhausts were right on.

So, all 4 left side intakes, 3 right side intakes, and 1 right side exhaust, 8 total.

Largest shim (225) was in #1 front exhaust, changed it for a 220.

#1 front intake had 215, changed it for a 208, #2 front intake had a 205, changed it for a 198 (3 sizes smaller each.) Thanks to John Oo for the tip on how to select the correct size. Each of the other changes were similar, one or two sizes smaller. Mark's loaner kit plus the shims I contributed from The Hulk provided everything needed.

Previous discussion about changing out the timing belt (and a couple folks discovering their's were off by 1 tooth) had me looking closely as I took her apart. All was (is) good.

After many years and many miles with no changes needed, I was surprised to find so many tight. Can't be because of carbon build-up, that makes valve shims loose, not tight. Standard answer is recessing valve seats. At 184,000 miles I guess that's not unreasonable. Last check, tho, was not that long ago, what would cause'em to change so quickly?

Anyone have a guess as to how many more miles she has in her?

Timing belt, water pump, and idler pulley next week.

ReSTored has the duty for Christmas STOCing this weekend, hope to see a bunch of ya there.

 

[Scooter]

After many years and many miles with no changes needed, I was surprised to find so many tight. Can't be because of carbon build-up, that makes valve shims loose, not tight. Standard answer is recessing valve seats. At 184,000 miles I guess that's not unreasonable. Last check, tho, was not that long ago, what would cause'em to change so quickly?

Must have been that bad tank of gas you got back in Iowa!!!

Don't worry George, you won't wear out those bikes before you get that new VFR1200T...

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Thanks for the report, George. About time you gave some TLC to your SSMST!

BTW, get the correct bolts on ReSTored front fender before it falls off...

Regards, John

 

[George]

Thanks for the report, George. About time you gave some TLC to your SSMST!

BTW, get the correct bolts on ReSTored front fender before it falls off...

Regards, John

I've added a bunch of miles with those bolts, what makes ya think it's gonna fall off now?

 

[dmulk]

I've added a bunch of miles with those bolts, what makes ya think it's gonna fall off now?

Did you tighten everything properly on this one, George? ::::


<D>

 

[Mark]

I can think of a couple of reasons for changes:
The 1st one that comes to mind is technique which might occur if you've done more reading since the last time you worked on them!
The 2nd one is tool set; did you change feeler gauges?

 

[George]

I can think of a couple of reasons for changes:
The 1st one that comes to mind is technique which might occur if you've done more reading since the last time you worked on them!
The 2nd one is tool set; did you change feeler gauges?

Same gauges, Mark, but it's colder in the garage than it was last spring.

I'm thinking wear and/or technique. Either way all is good now. I'll check'em again in a few thousand miles and post an update.

Much thanks to Blrfl for the use oh his shim kit. I added 16 to the bins out of The Hulk. Not much left of that old wreck.

 

[BigTom]

Quote by John OoSTerhuis
BTW, get the correct bolts on ReSTored front fender before it falls off...

Now that I think about it, Restored has a bolt or two from my left fairing pocket selection, too. Don't remember what needed it, but at least George got home

 

[civicblade]

I have this understanding that tight clearance, tighter than the specified limits is not good for the valve. As the clearance gets tighter, it might go into a situation that there is no more clearance, only interference. This means that the valve does not seat and seal. Loss of power and compression sealing aside, this means that the valve has lost a thermal conductive path to lose the heat that the valve is going to pick up from the combustion gases.

Very soon, the valve will fail due to thermal stress distortion.

The reverse is probably alright. More clearance could just mean that the valve doesn't open wide enough for optimum intake and exhaust flow. Some loss of power and fuel economy but it willl not lead to catastrophic failure of the valves.

As for clearance getting tighter as the miles builds up.. it does make sense if carbon deposit are absent. The valve and seat contact can wear some material off the valve or the seat.

Looks like it is a good time for me to check the clearance again.

 

[George]

This explanation is correct. In my experience a check at 16,000 miles is probably overkill but can't hurt (other than added wear and tear on the valve cover gaskets.) I've checked pretty regularly and until this last check on both of my STs found no need to change a shim.

A slightly tight clearance on an intake is probably less troublesome than an exhaust.

A loose clearance can become a tight clearance more quickly because of the adding "hammering" effect. When clearances are set correctly, the ramping
aspect of the cam lobe is negated when the clearance is too large.

PoST the results of your check, we're always interested intersted in new tech data.

I have this understanding that tight clearance, tighter than the specified limits is not good for the valve. As the clearance gets tighter, it might go into a situation that there is no more clearance, only interference. This means that the valve does not seat and seal. Loss of power and compression sealing aside, this means that the valve has lost a thermal conductive path to lose the heat that the valve is going to pick up from the combustion gases.

Very soon, the valve will fail due to thermal stress distortion.

The reverse is probably alright. More clearance could just mean that the valve doesn't open wide enough for optimum intake and exhaust flow. Some loss of power and fuel economy but it willl not lead to catastrophic failure of the valves.

As for clearance getting tighter as the miles builds up.. it does make sense if carbon deposit are absent. The valve and seat contact can wear some material off the valve or the seat.

Looks like it is a good time for me to check the clearance again.