Synthetic Marvel Mystery Oil long term use?

[SirSquid1300]

I appreciate everyone's comments. I only ran the MMO in the oil for about 25-30 miles and drained it last night. I used Mobile 1 10W30 this time around and now the gearbox feels a little smoother. My main concern that led up to me using MMO in the first place, was that shifting between gears felt rough and clunky. Given the mileage on my bike, I thought this was a sign that I needed to replace my clutch. Although my bike now feels a little smoother, I can't tell if it was the MMO or the fact I switched to Mobile 1 10w30 (synthetic). Previously, I was running QuakerState 10w30 (synthetic).

By the way, how many miles until any of you had to replace your clutch pack on the ST1300? Mine is a 2006 with about 60K miles on it.

 

[dduelin]

I appreciate everyone's comments. I only ran the MMO in the oil for about 25-30 miles and drained it last night. I used Mobile 1 10W30 this time around and now the gearbox feels a little smoother. My main concern that led up to me using MMO in the first place, was that shifting between gears felt rough and clunky. Given the mileage on my bike, I thought this was a sign that I needed to replace my clutch. Although my bike now feels a little smoother, I can't tell if it was the MMO or the fact I switched to Mobile 1 10w30 (synthetic). Previously, I was running QuakerState 10w30 (synthetic).

By the way, how many miles until any of you had to replace your clutch pack on the ST1300? Mine is a 2006 with about 60K miles on it. [/QUOTE="SirSquid1300, post: 2457002, member: 52078"]

Modern motor oils need no help from pour-in additives to do their job. Spend the money on something that’s actually useful.

Clutches last forever and a week on these things unless someone puts Resource Conserving oil in and glazes the friction plates.

Speaking of, a 10w30 oil that is not Resource Conserving (does not have JASO MA on the container labeling therefore is not compatible with the Honda wet clutch) is pretty rare outside of a motorcycle specific brand. Quaker State does not sell motorcycle specific oil and Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is usually 10w40 or 20w50. Did you check the 10w30 Mobile oil for the wet clutch compatibility?

 

[SMSW]

Yes I have as I like to call out the BS of the additive people telling you just gotta have it. Ole red one does not want to sound like a broken record but 259K miles on the Corolla using only regular non synthetic oil for 15 years then switched to semi synthetic for the last 3 years because 5W30 conventional not being made by Pennzoil. ST1100 sits at close to 86K miles only Honda conventional oil has been in the sump since the motor was first built. No additional concoctions required.

I once read that NY taxi companies run basically the cheapest bulk oil they can find in their fleets and I would bet on two things...they don't use additives, and they have few issues due to lubrication failures. I also read that running the car 12 hours + day is best for the oil because the high temps burn off moisture from combustion (compared to short trips w/ a cold engine). Does anyone know if city PD's run straight oil or if they mix in additives? Again, my bet is additives are for us suckers.

 

[dlim]

I use MMO in my fuel, not the oil. I add 2 ounces at every fill up. At the first of every month, I add 8 ounces of Seafoam at fill up. I was told that MMO is a great lubricant that does some cleaning, and Seafoam is a good cleaner, with some lubricating factors. No problems at all after 20000 miles of this routine. I change the oil and filter every 4000 miles, and change the gear oil every 8000 miles. It's not expensive to do, and if it cleans injectors and fuel lines extending mileage, its worth it to me.

 

[red one]

I once read that NY taxi companies run basically the cheapest bulk oil they can find in their fleets and I would bet on two things...they don't use additives, and they have few issues due to lubrication failures. I also read that running the car 12 hours + day is best for the oil because the high temps burn off moisture from combustion (compared to short trips w/ a cold engine). Does anyone know if city PD's run straight oil or if they mix in additives? Again, my bet is additives are for us suckers.

I think i remembered the trop artic commercial decades ago that had the NYC taxi's going a million miles on Philips trop artic conventional oil. They tore the engines down and they were clean and had minimal measured wear. No additives. When I worked at a service station in the early 70's people that had junkers were coming in getting STP thinking that would stop the oil burning and taping noise....it did not work.

 

[dduelin]

I use MMO in my fuel, not the oil. I add 2 ounces at every fill up. At the first of every month, I add 8 ounces of Seafoam at fill up. I was told that MMO is a great lubricant that does some cleaning, and Seafoam is a good cleaner, with some lubricating factors. No problems at all after 20000 miles of this routine. I change the oil and filter every 4000 miles, and change the gear oil every 8000 miles. It's not expensive to do, and if it cleans injectors and fuel lines extending mileage, its worth it to me.

I rode my 05 ST to 180,000 miles without ever adding fuel additives. Never an injection system problem. When I owned a mid last century flat head side valve four cylinder that was partially dependent on oil mist for valve train lubrication I added MMO to fuel because that’s what a top end additive was for 80-100 years ago. Modern engines need only a supply of good clean top tier fuel. IMO save the money for something that’s actually useful.

 

[SirSquid1300]

Modern motor oils need no help from pour-in additives to do their job. Spend the money on something that’s actually useful.

Clutches last forever and a week on these things unless someone puts Resource Conserving oil in and glazes the friction plates.

Speaking of, a 10w30 oil that is not Resource Conserving (does not have JASO MA on the container labeling therefore is not compatible with the Honda wet clutch) is pretty rare outside of a motorcycle specific brand. Quaker State does not sell motorcycle specific oil and Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is usually 10w40 or 20w50. Did you check the 10w30 Mobile oil for the wet clutch compatibility?

Yeah... so about that. I got a message from Igofar to call him ASAP so I knew I had really f'ed up. He told me to drain the oil I just put in it for that very exact reason. Been a day of learning through my mistakes I tell you... I'm now running Valvoline Premium Blue 15w40 (recommended by Igofar). I made a pretty stupid and careless mistake by running car oil in there for about 3,500 miles and hope there isn't any long-term damage to the gearbox... but only time will tell.

 

[SMSW]

I made a pretty stupid and careless mistake by running car oil in there for about 3,500 miles and hope there isn't any long-term damage to the gearbox... but only time will tell.

Probably no long term damage. Gear oil is specified to prevent damage under heavy loads over a long period of time. My guess is you put those 3500 miles on under the same conditions most of us ride our bikes...a combination of short and longer rides, but probably most of the miles were a far cry from maximum loadings. Had those 3500 miles been during the IBR, or flat out racing things might be different.

 

[DannoXYZ]

Note that you changed TWO variables, not just one when changing oil and adding MMO. One is new vs. old oil, and that had more to do with improved shifting feel than anything else. MMO did nothing.

I appreciate everyone's comments. I only ran the MMO in the oil for about 25-30 miles and drained it last night. I used Mobile 1 10W30 this time around and now the gearbox feels a little smoother. My main concern that led up to me using MMO in the first place, was that shifting between gears felt rough and clunky. Given the mileage on my bike, I thought this was a sign that I needed to replace my clutch. Although my bike now feels a little smoother, I can't tell if it was the MMO or the fact I switched to Mobile 1 10w30 (synthetic). Previously, I was running QuakerState 10w30 (synthetic).

By the way, how many miles until any of you had to replace your clutch pack on the ST1300? Mine is a 2006 with about 60K miles on it.

Before putting anything of unknown composition inside engine, should look up what's in it. Note the "flash point" and "cst" ratings. Now compare those figures with motor-oil: https://wiki.lbto.org//pub/Safety/ChemicalSafetySDS/Marvel_Mystery_Oil.pdf

I switched to Mobile 1 10w30 (synthetic). Previously, I was running QuakerState 10w30 (synthetic).

I hope you used a moto-specific full-synthetic oil. There is difference in ET/EP- extreme temperature/extreme temperature additives. That's why suggestion for HD diesel oil if going with non-moto specific oil, it has more of the good stuff. It's same additives found in gear-oil, which is what's needed to lubricate gearbox.

You don't have to listen to any of our suggestions, but at least follow manufacturer's guidelines. Honda hired lots of good engineers and they put stuff in owner's manual because it pertains to bike they designed. Don't use 10w30 if you're going to be riding anywhere above 88F.

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