Hi all can you tell me is it easy to take the rear shock off the 1300 as i have another to put on
cheers tony
cheers tony
Taking off rear shock
- Thread starter tony pan 1300
- Start date
Took mine off to install a spacer on the spring to increase preload.
There is not a lot of room to work in there and you just have to keep taking stuff off to get the room to remove it. I had the rear wheel off for a tire change anyways and also had both mufflers off, battery out and the right side passenger peg bracket off to gain access. I had no problem getting any of the bolts undone but it was a tight fit getting the shock out and I had to loosen and lift the rear subframe up a bit to get the clearance. Just be patient, take your time and you will have no problem.
I should mention that there is no need to disconnect the hydraulic line to the preload adjuster or you will have oil all over the place. You can just unbolt the adjuster from the frame and feed it through with the shock on removal.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2004
- Messages
- 4,348
- Age
- 70
- Location
- Ledgewood, NJ 07852
- Bike
- 03&04 ST1300
- STOC #
- 5079
I agree with Chris i replaced my shock I followed the instructions in the manual and it is like what Chris said its tight. I found that by turning the shock I was able to get it out the new one went in OK getting the top bolt started and torqued was a bit tough but take your time and it will work.
Rich R
GLMC-127 TS-671 IBA-37479
1 Put the bike on the centerstand on a 1" tall piece of wood (this gets you a little more muffler clearance.
2. Pull the seats and right bag.
3. Pull the right panel and remove the battery, and the allen bolt in the bottom of the battery tray.
4. Rotate the right muffler down and pull the rear wheel.
5. Pull the right passenger peg support plate, this is held in place by the 4 large allens staring right at you there, and 1 small 10mm head down by the muffler. Just maybe keep the top bolt a thread or 2 in to hold things. You need this loose to get the lower shock bolt out. The rear master cylinder is still connected (should be no issues)
6. Remove the 2 bolts holding the preload adjuster. You have a choice to remove the knob or not, if you do, be careful to catch the little ball and spring. The hose is held in place at the front of the rear fender, and then a couple places as it loops over the top of the shock.
OK, you may or may not need to do this next bit, my bike was stripped for maint, so I will "suggest" this step to access the upper shock bolt.
7. Remove the front seat adjuster, 6 bolts total, 4 at the adjuster to frame,
1 long bolt that pivots the tank at the rear, and then 1 bolt that holds the brake reservoir. Tie wrap the reservoir so it will not leak brake fluid on any painted parts.
8. There is a tie wrap near the top of the shock you can release that will loosen the bundle of hoses and wires.
9. Remove the lower shock bolt, you should be able to pull the rear peg support away enough to remove the bolt. The rear swingarm will drop about 25.6mm at this time
10 Remove the upper shock bolt.
At this time, you should be able to lift the lower shock mount a bit and slide the shock to the rear, you may need to muscle the rear fender a bit to get it to clear, and while all this is going on, you will need to unwind the preload adjuster and hose. Start to shock on the floor should take 1 1/2 hours, and if you can, an extra set of hands could be a help.
I think thats it, but it is late, assembly is reverse.
Cheers,
Rich
2. Pull the seats and right bag.
3. Pull the right panel and remove the battery, and the allen bolt in the bottom of the battery tray.
4. Rotate the right muffler down and pull the rear wheel.
5. Pull the right passenger peg support plate, this is held in place by the 4 large allens staring right at you there, and 1 small 10mm head down by the muffler. Just maybe keep the top bolt a thread or 2 in to hold things. You need this loose to get the lower shock bolt out. The rear master cylinder is still connected (should be no issues)
6. Remove the 2 bolts holding the preload adjuster. You have a choice to remove the knob or not, if you do, be careful to catch the little ball and spring. The hose is held in place at the front of the rear fender, and then a couple places as it loops over the top of the shock.
OK, you may or may not need to do this next bit, my bike was stripped for maint, so I will "suggest" this step to access the upper shock bolt.
7. Remove the front seat adjuster, 6 bolts total, 4 at the adjuster to frame,
1 long bolt that pivots the tank at the rear, and then 1 bolt that holds the brake reservoir. Tie wrap the reservoir so it will not leak brake fluid on any painted parts.
8. There is a tie wrap near the top of the shock you can release that will loosen the bundle of hoses and wires.
9. Remove the lower shock bolt, you should be able to pull the rear peg support away enough to remove the bolt. The rear swingarm will drop about 25.6mm at this time
10 Remove the upper shock bolt.
At this time, you should be able to lift the lower shock mount a bit and slide the shock to the rear, you may need to muscle the rear fender a bit to get it to clear, and while all this is going on, you will need to unwind the preload adjuster and hose. Start to shock on the floor should take 1 1/2 hours, and if you can, an extra set of hands could be a help.
I think thats it, but it is late, assembly is reverse.
Cheers,
Rich
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2006
- Messages
- 9,667
- Location
- Jacksonville
- Bike
- GL1800 R1200RT NC700
- 2024 Miles
- 010688
- STOC #
- 6651
Take a look here :
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7679
Everything you need to know.
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7679
Everything you need to know.