Things to Check on ST1300 for FI Light Code 26

[RobbieAG]

• I’ve owned my 2005 for eight years now and recently started getting the dreaded FI light. I’m getting ready to diagnose the issue to hopefully find something other than the ECU. Here’s a list of things I plan to check. What am I missing?
  
  • Battery tests (passed)
    • At rest
    • Under load
    • When charging
  • Connections to ECU and knock sensors
    • Disconnect and reconnect
    • Confirm wiring looks good
  • Any sign of rodents in air box, wiring etc. (passed)
  • Clogged T connector and vacuum hoses under air box (passed)
  • Fuel pump and hoses
  • Confirm spark plugs are tight
  • Switch knock sensors and see if the code changes from 26 to 25
    • This would indicate a bad sensor

 

[Raia]

All I can add is good luck, I fixed my f1 code on my 2003 by buying 2017 st so far no more codes.

 

[Terminator2]

Howdy. You might look in the 'Articles Section ST1300'. A couple of recent posts and all the replies included. I'm thankful I have not experienced this dilemma.
My thoughts would include (disconnect battery) checking resistance for both knock sensor wires. Inspect electrical plugs at computer and sensors. Test knock sensors (clean?). Check general integrity of all electrical wiring and grounds. IGoFar has resolved some of these Knock Sensor codes without having to replace computer. I would run a tank of 91 octane-non ethanol. The last 7 years I've read a few members experiencing this situation. I've also read that quite a few members run low octane fuel. Seems to me the knock sensors would be working overtime to offset using lower octane than what Honda recommends (91octane). Hoping the best for you. I really like these bikes.

 

[rdmnt2002]

Terminator,

You bring up a point I have always thought about with regard to the 25/26 problem. It would be interesting to see if people that have had this happen have run less than 91 octane fuel. But, when I have considered it, I have dismissed it because even if they induce a knock under load, the system should just work….working the system should not smoke the ECU.

Anyway….just food for thought.

Ray

 

[RobbieAG]

Regarding the fuel octane question, I've always run 93 octane hoping to never experience the FI light issue.

 

[Chris09]

I'm pretty sure it's Mellow that started a survey [?] inviting people to contribute various details about their 25 / 26 fault codes; remedial efforts, bike details; years and milage and whether they're continuing to ride the bike and so on.
At last read, it's not getting the attention or contributions it warrants but I think that will come around as these bikes are getting old but not uglier, and it seems to be the achilleas heel.

 

[RobbieAG]

I ran into a snag. Everything looked good with the air filter and I tried removing the housing to get to the T connector underneath. One of the screws won't come out and the head is now stripped. I tried using an impact driver and an easy out but no luck. I know I had it off a few years ago and the T connector was okay. I may just have to put it back together and hope that's still the case. Any ideas on how to get it out without doing damage?

 

[Uncle Phil]

Could you carefully drill off the head, get the cover removed, then remove the remainder of the screw with pliers or vise grips?

 

[RobbieAG]

Could you carefully drill off the head, get the cover removed, then remove the remainder of the screw with pliers or vise grips?

That's an idea that's worth a try. I've already drilled quite a bit hoping to get the easy out to bite enough to remove the screw, but it's a pretty tight spot to work in. Hopefully there'll be enough material left of the screw for the vice grips to grab onto.

 

[V4 Rider]

These screws are JIS not Philips or Pozi.

Using the correct Screwdriver / Impact greatly increases probability of successful extraction of screw

 

[Igofar]

Acetone/ATF - Heat - small chisel - light taps

 

[Larry Fine]

Cut a notch for a flat-blade screwdriver with a thin disc in a Dremel?

 

[Igofar]

The head of the screw is a half inch down inside the snorkel base, no way to get a cutting blade near it.

 

[RobbieAG]

These screws are JIS not Philips or Pozi.

Using the correct Screwdriver / Impact greatly increases probability of successful extraction of screw

I've been using JIS screwdrivers. I learned that lesson a long time ago

 

[Uncle Phil]

I've been using JIS screwdrivers. I learned that lesson a long time ago

Yeah, even JIS screwdrivers don't help when the head is made out of 'cheese' ...

 

[Igofar]

The 2012 and newer police models have upgraded to 8mm head fasteners.

 

[V4 Rider]

Try reverse thread drills . Sometimes the screw will come out just by drilling it. If not you will drill the head off anyway

 

[Erdoc48]

Easy out kit for the screw?

 

[RobbieAG]

Try reverse thread drills . Sometimes the scree will come out just by drilling it. If not you will drill the head off anyway

I got one and will be trying it today.

Easy out kit for the screw?

Tried that. No help so far. Maybe in conjunction with the LH drill bit, it may help.

 

[RobbieAG]

I got the screw out! Phew, that was painful! After carefully drilling the screw out with the left handed bit (not going farther than the length of the screw), the easy out bit enough for the screw to be extracted. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I'll definitely be getting the hex head screws from the 2015 and later police model that Larry mentioned (part #91508-MGP-D00). I never want to go through that again