Think it's worth it?!

Kaiser Swaghelm II said:
DOn't hammer a torx bit!
You'll end up with a colbalt plug when the bit snaps... which it WILL!
And then you won't be able to drill it without damaging the bracket!

Just slow RPM drill the head off using lubricant to keep the head cool!
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Funny, never have busted a Torx bit. I've twisted them up pretty nicely, but never broken one. If I did, I'd take the Dremel to it with abrasive bits and cut it out.

RT
 
Take care of your gas tank first if its rusty. That will flow with your fuel , some rusty crap to your carbs and plug the tiny orifices in there. Not sure if the 1100 has an external fuel filter but your carbs would thank you if you did.

I would not use the same procedure as seen in the video. I think you can harm the carbs rubber and plastic internals by using too strong of a concentration of seafoam. Im pretty sure it doesn’t say to use it that way on the can. You can email the company and ask if you wanted to try it. Its meant to be added to your fuel. Im a big fan of Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil. Surprisingly, I’ve never have fuel related problems on any of the 10 or so engines in my yard. :) Most are over 15 yrs old also. Every internal combustion engine I own gets a good dose of the magic potion a few times per season.
Good luck getting your bike going again.
 
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George said:
Another reason to get in the front of the engine is to check the water pump and idler pulley bearings. A dry bearing can screw ya as badly as a bad belt.
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George. do you just check the bearings by feel, or do you just replace em while you're in there?
My timing belt on the 99 is about due too. Wish I had done the water pump on the 91 when I did the belt, but things felt ok, and shortly thereafter green stuff began escaping out the weep hole.
 
I check them by feel, just like wheel bearing. They *should* be good for 2 belts but we all know they can fail sooner. I changed all those parts on STick at 180,000 miles with used parts from a 30,000 mile donor motor.
 
Hey Gents!
It's been a minute, but I'm back at it. Going to start working on the ST1100 again.
It was recommended that I see if the engine turns by hand and to check for compression before I go any further. So those are steps one and two.
Is the compression tester the same as would be used on a car? If it is, do you'll think it's worth buying or just borrow one from the Auto Zone?
 
Uncle Brian said:
Is the compression tester the same as would be used on a car?
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Yes.
Uncle Brian said:
If it is, do you'll think it's worth buying or just borrow one from the Auto Zone?
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Will you be doing this one compression test only?
Unless you are planning to start doing a lot of compression tests, I see no reason to buy it if you can borrow it.
 
you're looking for plus / minus around 140 psig on your compression result, now that depends also on the length of hose; [and a couple other factors] the 11 has a lower compression ratio; hence the 140 vs the ST with it's higher CR. If your max comp is under under 100 with any plug, it's not very good but don't get jammed in; still probably last your's [and mine] life time; just have to make sure everything else is up to snuff
 
Chris09 said:
If your max comp is under under 100 with any plug, it's not very good but don't get jammed in; still probably last your's [and mine] life time; just have to make sure everything else is up to snuff
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I've read that the pressures being close to each other is more important than absolute pressure, as long as it's enough.
 
but under 90 lbs is not good, a lot of people have said to me that compression never comes back, but I have had low compression recover; probably due to rings reseating a bit after some motivation, and oil.
 
If you did not know, compression tests need to be done with the throttle wide open so that the carburetors are not limiting air flow.

Neal
 
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