I'm getting ready to put my 4th one on. Get about 20k per tire, running with 2oz. beads.I've heard good things about the Michelin Commander but I've not used one yet.
Timing belt. It's not the miles, but the years. If it's not broke, should I fix it?
- Thread starter Ned in Utah
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John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
+1 on tires. Western US and Canadian roads shortened the normal mileage on my Exedras. Had to get a new rear in Calgary. As it turned out it was a good deal as the Loon exchange was quite favorable ($83) and we did the deed at a STOC member’s garage. Plan ahead for an R&R enroute if in question.
I’d be far more concerned about that 28amp alternator than any timing belt. JuST MHO.
John
I’d be far more concerned about that 28amp alternator than any timing belt. JuST MHO.
John
The fact that your water pump was making noise before the TB change sort of reinforces the "preventive maintainence" service aspect and the fact that everything has a service life. Changing (or not changing) a TB that "looks" just fine is a bit of a gamble in that maybe it would continue to run as long as the bike was owned/driven. Or maybe not and wreck the engine. Who can tell?? Spin the wheel and take your chances or play it safe and change it all. Cost is a big factor depending on whether you do you your own work or not. Not replacing everything in the belt system path seems a waste because of the again unforeseen chance of something soon failing and taking out the new belt soon/sometime after replacement.
As always, it's up to the owner to decide and everyone has their reasons/opinions for why they make their choice(s), either way.
In this case it was my fault, I normally do the typical maintenance at the recommended intervals, but somehow totally forgot to change the coolant for a very long time. But, had it not actually failed I probably would have replaced all the same items at 100k miles/20 years anyway since the labor cost is zero and the total parts cost isn't all that great once every 20 years.
OP
OP
I really appreciate all the input and advise guys. As of now I'm thinking I might for go on replacing that belt. Bike runs perfect and only has 21,000 miles on it, and seeing as how belt failures on the 1100 seem to be slim to none, I'm thinking I'll concentrate on tires, fluids, bulbs new set of plugs and such. Got the trunk on so, that's done, now I'll have to research the tire thing.
One thing that I'm working on is tire punctures. After my "unplugable" flat experience outside of Rocks Springs, that has me concerned, and I'm working on a possible "emergency plug" that might allow a guy to plug a big hole enough to get him into the next town instead of being stranded out by the side of the road in the middle of nowhere with a flat tire. I'll let you know how it goes.
One thing that I'm working on is tire punctures. After my "unplugable" flat experience outside of Rocks Springs, that has me concerned, and I'm working on a possible "emergency plug" that might allow a guy to plug a big hole enough to get him into the next town instead of being stranded out by the side of the road in the middle of nowhere with a flat tire. I'll let you know how it goes.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Red Gummy worms and a tube of rubber cement with a good set of t-handles. You can stuff several of them in the hole usually using the cement as a lubricant. Reds seem to be better than the black ones, IMHO.
kiltman
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- 2002,ST1100ABS
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- 8826
Also look into a small compressor pump, they can be had for under $20 and take very little space. Most plug into a cigarette lighter outlet. Or have alligator clips to attach to a battery
More than a few of us ask questions like this - questions that do have an answer, but would require a materials specialist or chemical engineer who has worked with the questioned product to give a definitive answer.
Jettawreck's comment about the date codes is valuable, but we still don't know the shelf life of these belts. Dwalby's approach is the one I favor if the belt has not seen Honda's recommended mileage limit.
I've often asked how long PVC plastic will last. It is used to insulate wire and in a lot of sewer/drainage pipes. Plumbers tell me 'forever'. The brick and masonry sewers in London are a few hundred years old and are crumbling. Will PVC pipes outlast brick and mortar? Same kind of question, but I have not bumped into anyone w/ a convincing answer. Guess I will just have to wait around and see.
the reality is there is no definitive answer, by anyone, you pay your money and you take your chances. Even the experts can only make an educated guess, which could be off.
The plastic water pipe from the city's meter to my house was supposed to last 50 years according to several plumbers I talked to, yet mine cracked at 25 years.
kiltman
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- Joined
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- 68
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- Stratford, Ontario Canada
- Bike
- 2002,ST1100ABS
- STOC #
- 8826
I had the dealer change the belts on both of the STs that I owned. The 1990 was 24 years old and at 134,k kilometres. The 97 I changed out at 87k miles, 20 years old. I had the 1990 changed in the winter, I removed all the Tupperware required to do the job. Took them 2.5 hours to do the job. The bill was under $200. With the 97 I had them change out the water pump at the same time, my labour charge was in the same ball park. By me removing the Tupperware I save 2 hours of labour charges. I’m posting this to give you an idea of the cost if you don’t feel confident in doing it yourself.
John O. Makes a good point about the alternator, That’s where I would consider spending money. There’s a Chinese version of the 40 amp alternator for $136.
If you don’t do the upgrade consider checking the connections from the alternator to the voltage regulator/rectifier. And the connector to the main relay. Also check to make sure there isn’t an oil leak from the alternator. Use the search feature for the 28 amp alternator and you will discover a number of hints to get the most life out of the unit. I only mention this as you’ve indicated you will be taking a long trip.
John O. Makes a good point about the alternator, That’s where I would consider spending money. There’s a Chinese version of the 40 amp alternator for $136.
If you don’t do the upgrade consider checking the connections from the alternator to the voltage regulator/rectifier. And the connector to the main relay. Also check to make sure there isn’t an oil leak from the alternator. Use the search feature for the 28 amp alternator and you will discover a number of hints to get the most life out of the unit. I only mention this as you’ve indicated you will be taking a long trip.
Slydynbye
Will ride for Pie
Note: If you remove the Tupperware to take it to a shop remove all the nut clips that hold the screws or they will fall out and be lost. DAMHIK
…..that it is, along for ANY LD ride, suggest tires have 4oz. of Ride-On in each one. Watched it demonstrated, and tires only lost 2lbs. of air after riding across many nails stuck through a long board. It also keeps tires balanced perfectly at all times. I'm sure many here use this, and majority of bike shops use this product instead of 'old school' balancing weights.
Take care ! I have had bad experience to see my timing belt (never changed) 29 years old with only 70000 kms slided on my water pump because with the time timing belt lenghtened and then the tensioner didn't work... Fortunately I heard some noise like if you press your starter when your engine is already working. I found 2 camshafts not correctly aligned with cranckshaft
When I installed a new one (only the belt) Every punch marks were correctly aligned and now engine works perfectly
Even though Honda preconises only checking at 100000 kms and the replacement at 150000 kms, by this way we can noticed it is wrong
When I installed a new one (only the belt) Every punch marks were correctly aligned and now engine works perfectly
Even though Honda preconises only checking at 100000 kms and the replacement at 150000 kms, by this way we can noticed it is wrong
then you can join us in the club of "my belt looked like new after XX years and XX miles, didn't look like it even needed to be replaced".
You certainly can't go by looks; a belt looks perfect until it breaks.
Years ago, I had a Civic that was supposed to have a belt replacement at 60K. I ignored it, and it broke at 73K, requiring a head rebuild due to bent valves.
I'd rather replace it and be wrong than not replace it and be wrong.
Sorry about the late response ( life priorities interceded ):
I wouldn't worry about the belt with that low mileage. It's the miles ( stress ) that causes the belt to finally break. I found a study on auto timing belt reliability testing, and on average during testing, a belt failed during testing ( broke ) after about 135K miles , if I remember correctly.
I would be more concerned about the grease in the idler pulley & tensioner pulley bearings being dried out. You can remove both ( one at a time ) and check them by spinning them after removal without even removing the timing belt belt or changing the alignment of the belt, camshaft pulleys, and crankshaft pulley, if you are careful. And you could also spin the water pump pulley to check the condition of the water pump bearing.
I replaced my timing belt at around 85K miles and both the pulley bearings "whined" pretty bad when spun by hand and I replaced both at that time.
I wouldn't worry about the belt with that low mileage. It's the miles ( stress ) that causes the belt to finally break. I found a study on auto timing belt reliability testing, and on average during testing, a belt failed during testing ( broke ) after about 135K miles , if I remember correctly.
I would be more concerned about the grease in the idler pulley & tensioner pulley bearings being dried out. You can remove both ( one at a time ) and check them by spinning them after removal without even removing the timing belt belt or changing the alignment of the belt, camshaft pulleys, and crankshaft pulley, if you are careful. And you could also spin the water pump pulley to check the condition of the water pump bearing.
I replaced my timing belt at around 85K miles and both the pulley bearings "whined" pretty bad when spun by hand and I replaced both at that time.
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UP, did the BT020s last the entire trip?
And what I am founding out is that Honda Dealers do not want to work on ST1100s because of their 'age' at any price. So unless you are going to do the work yourself, you'll spend more than the bike is worth to fix something that probably does not need fixing. I've taken all three of my ST1100s to Alaska with high miles and the original timing belts without an issue.
http://www.unclephil.us/Alaska2004Home.htm
http://www.unclephil.us/Alaska2012Home.htm
http://www.unclephil.us/Canada2013Home.htm
I'd be more concerned about picking a set of tires that will get you up there and back because an 'on the road' tire change can be painful, expensive, and time consuming. I use the BT020 Bias (goes on the big BMW KLT - same size) and I've heard good things about the Michelin Commander but I've not used one yet.