Tire leak

[czarwolf]

Hello all,

Today and yesterday, I found my new rear tire flat when i came out to ride to and from work respectively. I did a thorough inspection of the rear tire and there is no damage, no notches, no blemishes. The tire appears in good shape, It has last than 1000 miles on it. My mechanic reamended Tire Slime. I cant afford another new tire, How long can i safely use Tire slime if i see no visible leak or damage? My mechanic suggests it could be a rim leak.

Any advice would be helpful!

2011 Suzuki 1250 FA

 

[caldercay]

Rim leak, or more likely, a leaking valve stem.
.
Get a spray bottle and fill it with liquid dish soap (a couple squirts) and water, put bike on center stand, and slowly spin rim and spray on tire's contact area and where the bead meets rim.
.
I'm not necessarily speaking about the valve stem where it seals at the rim ... take the cap off and squirt INTO where the valve core is.
.
I've had a motorcycle wheel and a wheel on the Jeep leak at the valve core. I used a valve core tool to remove the core to check debri, then screwed it back and all was good.

 

[Igofar]

Do NOT use Slime inside your tire.
Slime will damage the aluminum rim over time.
When you mounted the tire, did someone clean (wire brush) the edge of the rim where the bead seats?
You may have a leak due to that.
You should also remove the schrader valve inside the stem and check the O-ring (or replace the valve).
Are you SURE there is not any damage (small nail) that you missed?
I would do the following:
Let all the air out, and break the bead, clean the rim, apply tire paste, and re-seat the bead, then check for leaks (water tank)
If your using metal valve stems, have you replaced the O-ring in them at every tire change?
Instead of using Slime, I would Use RIDE-ON tire sealant. It's much better, and will not damage aluminum, and will wash out with plain water.
Let us know what you find.

 

[czarwolf]

Do NOT use Slime inside your tire.
Slime will damage the aluminum rim over time.
When you mounted the tire, did someone clean (wire brush) the edge of the rim where the bead seats?
You may have a leak due to that.
You should also remove the schrader valve inside the stem and check the O-ring (or replace the valve).
Are you SURE there is not any damage (small nail) that you missed?
I would do the following:
Let all the air out, and break the bead, clean the rim, apply tire paste, and re-seat the bead, then check for leaks (water tank)
If your using metal valve stems, have you replaced the O-ring in them at every tire change?
Instead of using Slime, I would Use RIDE-ON tire sealant. It's much better, and will not damage aluminum, and will wash out with plain water.
Let us know what you find.

I got this new tire about a month ago when i had a nail center tread of my old tire. Had to carry it about two miles to the nearest cycle shop where they screwed me for 160 bux for a rear wheel / mounting. They did the tire mounting and all that and there hasnt been an issue until yesterday after work. I am 90% sure there is no tire puncture. I inspected it this morning while airing it up again.

If it is a valve stem what are the options? Im still kind of new to bikes so this is all learning as stuff happens for me.

 

[caldercay]

If it is a valve stem what are the options

It depends where the valve stem failed. If the rubber, you need a new one. If the core, simply replace that.

 

[Al st1100]

if it leaks you can find it. Like calderclay stated soap and water works the best. don't dilute it too much, just like blowing bubble soap. should have patched the old tire unless your planning on testing the speed limits on the tire... better hope they didn't rip the tire bead, that will be another can of worms

 

[Roger]

I had a wheel powder coated because corrosion was causing a leak. The refurbished wheel/tyre held good pressure for 3 months, then after a check and slight adjustment, went totally flat in a week. I changed the valve core and it's been OK now for a couple of months..... I blame a bad core or some debris in the seal......

 

[caldercay]

When you mounted the tire, did someone clean (wire brush) the edge of the rim where the bead seats?

.

better hope they didn't rip the tire bead,

.
Both are reasons why I do not trust anyone to replace my tires (well, I'd let Larry change it ), i.e., why I change out my tires myself.
Only way I'd allow a shop to replace a tire is if I get to watch them.

 

[Igofar]

If it's the factory rubber stem, all you would have to do is break the bead on one side of the tire, cut the rubber stem off with side cutters, then push the base inside the wheel where it can be fished out and removed.
Most auto stores sell valve stem tools for a couple bucks.
Insert tool through hole in rim and screw it on the valve stem, then pull into place and unscrew. Then simply lube rim back up and air tire up and seat bead again.
The MOST expensive tire mount I have heard about with wheel in hand was $50 dollars, and that was at a snobby BMW dealership.
Did they use a machine, or tire irons?
I also hope they didn't damage the cords in the tire.

 

[Nashcat]

Seems like the only time I pick up a nail, is in a new tire. Get out the soapy water.

John

 

[SMSW]

Rule of thumb, new tires are nail magnets. The older the tire the less likely it will find a nail. If the valve stem is the problem, you might consider a right angle valve stem. Do a search here, someone was selling angled valve stems or you can google it and by them cheaply on Amazon (maybe even at your local auto parts store). Hint, I think the ST takes an 11.3 mm dia stem. Verify this with someone else here - that's what I remember but I'm not positive.

A better alternative (for me, and some of us) is a T shaped valve stem. This is used with a tire pressure monitoring system and will set you back around $13 from a vendor like Hawkshead. Regardless, you can install either somewhat like Larry described for a regular rubber stem. Remove the wheel from the bike, break the bead, use a C-clamp and blocks of wood to squeeze the beads together. This gives you access to the valve stem hole and you can install your new v-stem. If you use the straight rubber typ, spray it with that soap solution before you insert it. Makes it easier. You can also use silicone grease for rubber, but do not use petroleum based grease.

 

[caldercay]

Remove the wheel from the bike, break the bead, use a C-clamp and blocks of wood to squeeze the beads together

.
I just grab the tire with one hand across the beads and squeeze ...

 

[Larry Fine]

I just grab the tire with one hand across the beads and squeeze ...

Me, too.

 

[Igofar]

Oh yeah, well I can mount a tire without using tire irons!

 

[CruSTy]

I bought a "Barn Find" 00 GL1500SE with 49,000 miles on it in July. Putting new tires and wheel bearings on it as a safety precaution. When I dismounted the front tire it was full of mostly crystallized Green tire sealer. The outside of the rim was dirty but showed no signs of corrosion. The inside however was a different story. Pitting was so bad I will not be remounting this on any bike. NEVER USE GREEN SLIME tire sealer in an aluminum wheel unless you are going to clean it out almost immediately. Found a good used one on fleabay.

 

[Larry Fine]

Good decision!

 

[mortenk]

Hope you find the leak shortly (using soapy water) and get whatever was causing the leak fixed.

In the future you may want to consider repairing flat tires rather than replacing them. I recommend carrying the "gummy worms" and a small 12V pump, so that you can do this on the road. The worms install from the outside, so a repair typically takes less than 10 minutes, while the wheel remains on the bike. Once you get home you can them remove the tire and install a "mushroom" patch from the inside. I consider this a permanent fix - I have done it many times. Best of luck.