I'm stripping everything off anyway, bolts are rusty, lights are broken, I think there is a slight bend in one rail (twist), but I have access to a press that I can fix that with, but that is a good idea, thanksAm easier way would be to lay a board, ripped to the 6.5", down the middle. Centered front and rear, will give the correct cut angles at the front. Easy.
Be careful of shortening it to much. A trailer with a tongue that is it to short does not pull well. I have no idea what length is to short in such an application, I just know that it can be a problem, so something to consider.This will shorten the tongue a bit, by eye I'd guess no more than 5", and that isn't a bad thing using the TLAR method.
Be careful not to put too much weight aft of the axle.Have you considered pushing the box rearward (so the crossbar is under the box)?
Its only a problem IF you are reversing with it. Short trailers are brutal because they react very quickly to steering input and you jackknife them really easy. The real issue is tongue weight. We have very short welding and mobile pump unit trailers at work. They tow perfectly, but that is because the tongue weights are static and designed into them. The guys will drop them and turn them by hand rather than backing them up. Short tongue also is very sensitive to loading, its easy to load them incorrectly. Lastly, this is a boat trailer that is being modified. Boat trailers have the axle fairly far back because boats, generally trailerable boats, have most of the weight at the transom, so the wheels are far back to keep the tongue weight up. I've built a few trailers from scratch and there is no hard fast rule except keep the tongue weight right around 10% of the loaded trailer weight.Be careful of shortening it to much. A trailer with a tongue that is it to short does not pull well. I have no idea what length is to short in such an application, I just know that it can be a problem, so something to consider.
I'll be adding some cross bars, but I am going to have rear one under boxHave you considered pushing the box rearward (so the crossbar is under the box)?
You may well be right, I honestly don't know. I based this on no personal expertise as well as having no good explanation to offer as I have never had a need to research this.Its only a problem IF you are reversing with it.
I kept thinking about this and my 8' wide trailer, no, there is not a 16' tongue.The general rule is that the trailer tongue’s length should be twice the distance between the wheels, so the force from acceleration and braking will be distributed along with a slender triangle. This arrangement reduces the tendency of the trailer to turn from one side to the other.
If I recall correctly, the general rule is the axle is about 60%, 5/8 (62%), or 2/3 (66%), back from the load area front.
I've heard longer tongues are better.....You may well be right, I honestly don't know. I based this on no personal expertise as well as having no good explanation to offer as I have never had a need to research this.
In researching my own trailer purchase, I read of a few instances where trailer tongues were shortened to much and a less stable trailer was the result. This is according to the people who wrote about towing them. I also read a couple accounts, including one on this forum I think, of people who have lengthened their motorcycle trailer tongues and reported that a more stable tow was the result compared to the tongue length that came with the trailer. Again, that is according to them.
My main intent was simply to offer a heads up to anyone who might be contemplating changing their trailer tongue length, that this might be a change that is worth looking in to.
As I said, shortening the tongue will make the trailer more sensitive to loading, and direction when backing up. The "stability" is likely due to the fact that shortening the tongue also changes the arc of the trailer vertically responding to bumps, change of direction, etc. The longer tongue, longer arc, damps this considerably. From a practical standpoint, no one will build a trailer that has a really short tongue simply because it won't clear the tow vehicle when turning. With an MC, that is less of an issue, as the width is less however I suppose someone might do that inadvertently.You may well be right, I honestly don't know. I based this on no personal expertise as well as having no good explanation to offer as I have never had a need to research this.
In researching my own trailer purchase, I read of a few instances where trailer tongues were shortened to much and a less stable trailer was the result. This is according to the people who wrote about towing them. I also read a couple accounts, including one on this forum I think, of people who have lengthened their motorcycle trailer tongues and reported that a more stable tow was the result compared to the tongue length that came with the trailer. Again, that is according to them.
My main intent was simply to offer a heads up to anyone who might be contemplating changing their trailer tongue length, that this might be a change that is worth looking in to.
Very good idea, thanksRichKat, looking down stream and early on ... when it comes time to fasten the box to the frame I would suggest that you take a look at "flush deck cleats" for boats.
They are super strong / come with water tight gaskets / wont rust / and obviously lay flush. But a strong attribute is that you can use them to tie down load items (or partitions) inside the box. Say ,for example, you go camping and want to carry a 5 gallon water jug or several other objects ... you do not want them sliding around during corners or emergency stops. There are a ton of choices available.
I think the tongue length was measured from the center line of the axle.I kept thinking about this and my 8' wide trailer, no, there is not a 16' tongue.
I can tow a trailer. Canu?