Trying to de-bead my tires while still mounted on the bike

[Josh_ST]

I bought some metal valve stems (https://wingstuff.com/products/37222-t-valve-optional-accessory-for-fobo-2-tpms) so I can run TPMS and am trying to de-bead the tires while still mounted on the bike.

So far, I've broken the ends off of 2 "squeeze" clamps trying to compress the bead/sidewalls with blocks of wood for spacers. Looking for other thoughts on how to try to accomplish this.

 

[STFlips]

I think a proper 8"~10" C clamp would do it

 

[Jethro]

Carefull with your hands in there! Sometimes these short-cuts take longer than the conventional way.
Rear tyre will be fun.When was the last time you pulled your wheels?Now could be a good time to lube drive splines etc. etc.

 

[SMSW]

If you are breaking the clamps, they are toys. There are a million different types, but as already mentioned, any decent clamp should do the trick. I'd think you might need a deep throat type of large capacity.

 

[Erdoc48]

Check this site: I did this exact job with the scooter (Silverwing) a few weeks ago- I also got to the point where I squeezed the clamps as much as I was able but couldn’t break the bead, but then I used one of my tire irons right on the bead region where it was squeezed to the max and was able to have the tire peel away from the wheel (the back wheel as it’s a bit of a bear to remove from the scooter- lots of steps)- just a little prying (and no wheel damage as I used a microfiber towel at my leverage point.

For the front, it was just easier to pull the wheel off the bike and use my tire machine to break the bead. The clamps in the picture are to hold the bead against the unbroken bead so I had access to the valve hole.

For the rear, I didn’t use wood spacers, just the rubber ends of the clamp, but as above, make sure the clamp is big enough to fit the tire in its aspect ratio (tire height).

My posts are towards the bottom in the thread (with pics):

rear tire/wheel valve failure

I don't know where this subject should go...but important. On inflating new rear tire today---the curved OEM valve failed/broke in half. so no go on new tire

www.silverwing600.com

 

[Al st1100]

pull the wheel out, put the sensor in, properly clean,and lube the tire bead. Check and/or rebalance tire. Do it once not twice.

 

[Esti1300]

OP, FWIW, I tried to do this job as well, in hurry to get my shiny new t-valves on ASAP. The winner in this contest was the incredibly stiff sidewalls of this sport touring monster. IMHO hydraulic pressure is required for what you would like to accomplish.

My best advice would be to wait until your next tire change. Patience grasshopper…. turtle wins this race with machine and most of your fingers intact.

Good luck!

 

[Larry Fine]

Good advice. I held onto mine and had the shop do the T-stems when the tires were replaced.

 

[STFlips]

On a related question as I will be changing to metal stems when the tires come off, anyone use a drop of LocTite on the threads or is proper torque sufficient?

 

[Sadlsor]

I would appreciate 90-degree metal valve stems.
Which I'll do next changeover.

 

[bstig60]

On a related question as I will be changing to metal stems when the tires come off, does anyone use a drop of Loctite on the threads or is proper torque sufficient?

Torque was sufficient, I have done this on several bikes. Opinions will undoubtedly vary!

 

[Esti1300]

On a related question as I will be changing to metal stems when the tires come off, anyone use a drop of LocTite on the threads or is proper torque sufficient?

Torque was OK for me Bruce!

 

[Kevcules]

On a related question as I will be changing to metal stems when the tires come off, anyone use a drop of LocTite on the threads or is proper torque sufficient?

I think torque is sufficient, so loctite not needed.
I think what happens if they get a bit loose is the O-ring flattens a bit and just checking the torque at the next tire change is a good idea. The O rings don't last for ever either. Not sure if the
O-rings can be replaced or if the metal stem fitting has to be changed. I'll find out sooner or later as I have them installed also.

 

[DeanR]

I had one Ariete (torqued correctly) loosen slighty without LocTite, so I put dab on at the next tire change. It never leaked but did a worrisome little wiggle.

Was likely the o-ring as was just posted above.

 

[Larry Fine]

I would appreciate 90-degree metal valve stems.
Which I'll do next changeover.

I (we) suggest T-stems if you might ever add a TPMS. You can monitor the pressure as you add air.

 

[core-aggie]

Personally, I'd never attempt to short circuit a job like this.

The effort and time that it takes to remove the wheel, break the bead, and eventually install wheel back, is minimal. You have the added advantage of inspecting things when the wheels are off.[1]

Personally #2, I would have waited until the next tire change to do this.


[1] Already expended effort and time with no success, plus the time taken to post this thread and wait for an answer

 

[Andrew Shadow]

2 "squeeze" clamps

Squeeze clamps will hold the tire bead away from the seat on the rim once the bead has been broken, but they most likely will not be able to break the bead.
You need a good sized C clamp for that.

 

[Igofar]

I can see it already.....
Damage to the rim, Damage to the bead an/or cords in the tire, dropping the bike, and finding out that Nobody sells O-rings for those fittings, which means buying new ones at the next tire change etc.
A much simpler/safer way would be to simply purchase an air chuck fitting with a quick release. This would allow you to fill up your tires almost anywhere there was a compressor.
Car Lots, Hardware stores, Sears, Paint stores, Farms, Shops, etc.
This is much handier than having an angled stem, only to find out the hose at the gas station is cut or damaged.
You can also purchase an angled valve stem (screw on) from BMW that is really good quality, and has o-rings on each end to keep from loosing air.
You simply screw it on, fill up your tire, and remove it when finished.

 

[Josh_ST]

Thanks all, I just got the bike last spring, and the PO just put tires on it the year prior, so new shoes are likely a ways off.

And you are all correct, do it once, and do it right.

I didn't have a large enough C clamp until lunch time, had to exchange some wiring clamps for half inch. Why are electrical conduit fittings not based on the size of the damn hole in the box!? It measures 7/8, so I bought 3/4, and they measure 1 1/8 OD But now I have an 8' C clamp too

 

[Larry Fine]