Upcoming belt replacement questions

[Aladinbama]

I've done quite a bit of reading and am still wondering. Even Mark's maintenance pages weren't real clear on this.
I'll be changing my belt soon. My question is; other than the belt, a water pump, a wp gasket, and a couple of O rings, what other parts should I be prepared to change out with the belt and wp? I realize that some parts being changed depend on wear, but which ones wear (I'll go ahead and change them)? I'd like to have everything I need (and know that probably won't happen, but ...).
This has been touched all over the place, but why hasn't a list been stuck up top here?

 

[NuHondaGuy]

+1 Mine is coming up on 90K and was wondering the same thing. Understand recommendations include new hoses and elbows under the carbs as well. Would be nice to have a parts list so everything would be there.

 

[DeanR]

Me too..95k. I have the belt, all hoses elbows. Pulleys probably ok? although would hate to be in there only to discover they are needed.

 

[Aladinbama]

Thanks Irish - Got it!
Just to add, I had an elbow break just after I bought it at about 68K. Both the elbows, O rings for them, and the hoses under the carbs have already been changed (as well as the thermostat and various other cooling system hoses).

 

[schlep1967]

Thanks Irish - Got it!
Just to add, I had an elbow break just after I bought it at about 68K. Both the elbows, O rings for them, and the hoses under the carbs have already been changed (as well as the thermostat and various other cooling system hoses).

SO you asked for a list. Irish gave you one in an email ...... AND YOU DIDN'T POST IT FOR THE REST OF US? Please?

 

[ST1100Y]

Pulleys probably ok? although would hate to be in there only to discover they are needed.

For the pretty same thoughts I also replace spanner- & idler pulley while in there... precautionary...

Besides (various) coolant hoses, I'd also opt for a new thermostat & housing O-ring, new fan/stat, new radiator cap and radiator drain plug + gasket (a plastic bolt with a rubber seal, both tend to suffer cracks due age/heat).
Further possible of suffering cracks are the small carb overflow lines, fuel pet cock diaphragm, the small rubber boots covering the pushrods of clutch- and brake master cylinders, brake/clutch lever (check the brass 'eye' and the insert for wear)

 

[DeanR]

For the pretty same thoughts I also replace spanner- & idler pulley while in there... precautionary...

Expensive though, given the current ones are likely ok. But I hear ya.

 

[dwalby]

Expensive though, given the current ones are likely ok. But I hear ya.

The pulleys are very high quality parts, and if you're really trying to save money it is likely they are OK when you get in there. Not sure how many failures have been reported here, I haven't been here long enough to remember anyone ever having one fail. That being said, when I did my belt I figured I didn't want to go back in there again for another 100k miles, so I changed everything. Plus, any belt related failure will pretty much ruin the engine, so that's why I didn't want to gamble with it. You might get lucky with a bearing failing slowly and making noise, but then again, you may not be so lucky.

 

[ST1100Y]

Well, on the '94 with 195Tkm/120k-miles on the the idler pulley was worn down... clearly audible by an awful grinding noise...
Obviously did the w/shop replace w/pump together with the t/belt in the past, but not the idler nor spanner pulley... the idler bearing already had >1mm play(!), the spanner bearing already felt a bit 'rough' when turning it by hand...
Replaced both of course, but had to go in there again to replace the bearings of the reduction gears as well, as also they emitted some distinctive noise in idle...
Fortunately I didn't have the fairing back on then...

 

[dwalby]

Well, on the '94 with 195Tkm/120k-miles on the the idler pulley was worn down... clearly audible by an awful grinding noise...
Obviously did the w/shop replace w/pump together with the t/belt in the past, but not the idler nor spanner pulley... the idler bearing already had >1mm play(!), the spanner bearing already felt a bit 'rough' when turning it by hand...
Replaced both of course, but had to go in there again to replace the bearings of the reduction gears as well, as also they emitted some distinctive noise in idle...
Fortunately I didn't have the fairing back on then...

Sounds like maybe you had a bit of a lemon there, or somehow the seal around the front cover was compromised and the parts were exposed to nature's elements. My experience was quite the opposite, I had to keep the parts separated so I could tell the new ones from the old ones.

 

[ChucksKLRST]

Sounds like maybe you had a bit of a lemon there, or somehow the seal around the front cover was compromised and the parts were exposed to nature's elements. My experience was quite the opposite, I had to keep the parts separated so I could tell the new ones from the old ones.

Well, on the '94 with 195Tkm/120k-miles on the the idler pulley was worn down... clearly audible by an awful grinding noise...
Obviously did the w/shop replace w/pump together with the t/belt in the past, but not the idler nor spanner pulley... the idler bearing already had >1mm play(!), the spanner bearing already felt a bit 'rough' when turning it by hand...
Replaced both of course, but had to go in there again to replace the bearings of the reduction gears as well, as also they emitted some distinctive noise in idle...
Fortunately I didn't have the fairing back on then...

There is a little bit of difference between the winter road conditions in Vienna, Austria and San Diego, California. I am sure that is why the difference in the condition of the parts in question.Been to both places. Matter of fact, I was born in Vienna.

 

[dwalby]

Matter of fact, I was born in Vienna. I am sure that is why the difference in the condition of the parts in question.

No offense Chuck, but I don't think your place of birth has anything to do with the condition of the parts.

Has the forum ever found a correlation between the condition of those parts and the climate the bike is exposed to? Since they're pretty well sealed, not sure how much 'climate' actually gets in there, but the temperature changes sure do apply to everything. I suspect our low humidity also helps in that regard, unless you live right at the ocean and then the salt air is worse than being in a cold climate.

 

[ChucksKLRST]

Ha ha good one. .........There I fixed it. I think.

 

[ST1100Y]

There is a little bit of difference between the winter road conditions in Vienna, Austria and San Diego, California.

LOL!
Methinks many factors play into there...
- general care (or lack of)... like that the '94 was always parked outside and that the PO was no neat-freak either...
- thus: range of ambient temperature
- riding style and terrain (like racing the bike up and down twisty alpine road vs cruising along on flat free-ways at moderate rpm)
- quality/care/motivation of service crew
- stinginess of owner when it comes to quotations and workshop bills...
- the general relation of the rider to his mount... many see their vehicle only as 'utensil', dawning along unnoticed as long as it keeps working, while I tend to think ahead (probably a tad too much) and keep prepping the rig like a pilot does on his aircraft... OTOH did I never face a breakdown, nor an 'unexpected' mayor workshop bill...

 

[DeanR]

I too have no idea what you are talking about regarding all the water pump gaskets. And, it is not necessary to drain the oil to change the timing belt.

 

[dwalby]

I think he meant to type 'coolant' instead of 'oil'.

OK, now I understand the other seals he was talking about, they're the rubber seals on the various pieces of the front covers you take off to access the belt, pump, etc. In my case they were all OK except for one, so I just replaced that one. Not sure why he said they were a pain to replace, it was very easy, the seal fits into a slot in the cover.

 

[hotrod1]

Just bought a 93 1100 pan with 26K miles, should I replace the belt, it's now 21 years old. Yip, reviving an old thread, thanks folks. I would love your advice mates, Rod

 

[Mark]

Go ride.

If you really have to replace it for peace of mind it will not hurt it; but, I'd ride it, a lot!

 

[ST1100Y]

Just bought a 93 1100 pan with 26K miles, should I replace the belt, it's now 21 years old.

At least give it a visual inspection...
There two silver plastic covers forward on each valve cover (remove the access panels in the front fairing) , and there is a small cover at the crank-pulley at the forward bottom of the engine (you'll however need to remove the grey belly-pan to access that one)

Even if it doesn't show any indications requiring immediate action, if you really want to a 21 year old belt (plus the spanner and idler pulley) in is totally up to you...
Fact is that the SC26 engine is an "interference type", means if the belt blows, the engine is pretty much toast... is it worth the risk?

On a bike that age (and of unknown service history) I personally would work through a serious number of items, before I put it on the road again, especially if I plan longer riders with it...
- all coolant hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, fan-stat, radiator drain plug, them elbows + O-rings on both heads
- new carb isolators (AKA carb-boots), check all them vacuum and overflow hoses for damage
- new air-filter
- check/adjust valve clearances
- a fuel petcock rebuild kit
- a check on them PAIR pumps, and if their found leaking, remove the stuff and plug all now open lines
- once engine and airways are completed again, sync them carbs
- replace engine oil and filter (do not fill over 1/3rd above the MIN line)
- rebuild kits for front/rear brakes as well as the clutch, means overhaul master and server cylinders, maybe new pads, etc...
- since the rear wheel is removed, inspect them drive-splines for wear/neglect...
- inspect all wheel bearings and pack the seals with marine lube or similar
- replace oil in final drive
- check/replace head bearings
- check/overhaul forks (at least consider an oil change)
- yeah, and how old did you say are those tires again? ;-)

However, if you've received a service-history of the bike, you maybe can cross-out a couple of items from that list... ;-)

 

[BuddingGeezer]

Just bought a 93 1100 pan with 26K miles, should I replace the belt, it's now 21 years old. Yip, reviving an old thread, thanks folks. I would love your advice mates, Rod

Replace the belt. Rubber ages and weakens and your's is old enough to buy liquor and could have voted in the last Presidential election. The belt may not break for some time, but odds are it'll never make 90K miles with 64K miles to go. If the belt breaks your valves and maybe pistons will be trash. Will all the people that say to run the 21 year old belt pay for your engine if it breaks?

My :tc1: