That is good information.
Only because I live in the UK. These are the exact symptoms that we get when we try to start the bike with a chipless key. We have HISS fitted. So I have to ask if you do as well. It isn't normal in the States, but just to be sure ... If you do, it will say 'HISS' above a small red light near to where the FI light is located on the dash.
Ok now you have been asked that question:-
It could mean that your ECU has a problem, but there's a whole load of other stuff to check out first.
My bike is not a HISS model. I had a spare ECU that failed with a F! 26 knock sensor code that I swapped in to check if it was the problem and that made no change.
Make sure you haven't been caught out by the one second 'gotcha':
The Brn/Blk lead is connected to earth by the ECU for only a second or so when the ignition is first turned on. After that the ECU turns it off and you will get the readings that you have observed. Secure your probes - positive on the Brn/Blk connector of the Fuel Cut Relay, -ve on a good earth. Turn on the ignition and make sure that you get the reading in that first second. It should read 0v for a second when it is connected to earth, and then read 12v when the ECU disconnects it from earth. It will remain reading 12v from then onwards.
I tried this and didn't see what you describe, but will try it again as my method might have not been sound.
If you are getting 12v on both the Blk/Wh and the Brn/Wh then everything to the left of the Fuel Cut Off Relay is fine, but your Brn/White is not connecting to earth, which is why your Fuel pump isn't working. However, note that the two Black/White leads shown in this diagram are actually much longer than this and are joined further back in the harness. Check that you are getting 12v on both of the leads.
This part I understood and I do have the correct voltage there at the relay.
Check the terminals and cable in the relay connector under the Fuel Cut relay. Make sure it is sound. Make sure it is plugged in the spade correctly.
Check the fuel cut relay is OK. Switch it with one of the headlight relays to test it. The two headlight relays are to the left of the main cluster, each one positioned behind one of the fuse boxes.
I did switch in another relay that made no change. two of the wires that the mouse chewed was from the Fuel shutoff relay to the ECU... the area he chewed was on the ECU side of a plug that connects to the fuel shutoff relay,,, I checked continuity from the plug to the ECU and made sure I hadn't inadvertently switched the when I made the repair. That checked out. I unplugged the black connector to the fuel pump and check the continuity of the brown wire from the fuel shutoff relay to the plug and it was OK.
I'd say to test the fuel pump works, but you have already tested that by applying 12v to it. But check the black connector and it's connections from the fuel pump lead - it joins just below the seat subfram behind the left hand side panel.
Remove the Brn/Bk lead from the fuel cut relay and replace it with a temporary lead, the other end of which is connected to Earth. Turn on the ignition and listen. You should hear the pump. Turn it off again within a second or so, because it will continue pumping and won't turn off by itself. Alternatively, turn the run/stop switch off before turning the ignition on, and just flick the switch on to listen and then flick it off again. It is easier to control. Turn the ignition off and then flick the run/stop switch back on for any future tests.
This I haven't tried... so to understand the circuit, the Brn/Bk wire is only a ground connection?
If you do hear the pump, then that confirms that the connection to Earth is suspect. Either the Brn/Blk lead to the ECU, or the ECU connection to earth. Check your earthing points are clean, uncorroded, and unchewed. There is one under the rear of the tank, just in front of where the front of the saddle is. Early models were subject to a recall for chafing of this bunch of wires. And if you have had mice, it is a tasty bunch of earths for a mouse that has found the area under the tank to get their teeth into. The fuel cut relay also cuts the coils and fuel injection.
This bike is a 2003 non ABS and I am aware of the recall for the ground, though I will also check that over.
The ECU will not allow the circuit to be completed to earth under certain conditions which involve the clutch switch, neutral switch and sidestand switch. Make sure the bike is in neutral, the sidestand is up and the clutch lever is pulled in - which will make sure that if one of these sensors is dodgy, the other two will be in the correct position to allow the engine to start.
I'm thinking this is not the problem as I tried all that. What I see that is different than when the bike ran properly is that when the key is switched on, the F1 light comes on and it used to stay on for 2-3 seconds and go out, but now it stays on the entire time that the key is turned to on.
Have you disconnected the ECU from its multiway connector at any time. One previous similar problem was due to a bent pin at that conenction after disconnecting and putting it back again.
I have, but the pins are all good.
If all else fails - there is a yellow multiway connector behind the headlights. It connects together a whole load of earth wires. It has been known to overheat and melt - particularly if people have added extra gear and used the bike's earths rather than wiring in a new return to the battery.
This I will have to investigate...
