Updated Shelf Recommendations

bobframe

bobframe

Joined
Feb 1, 2011
Messages
753
Location
Toccoa, GA
Bike
1200RT, 1200GS
STOC #
8449
I know this has been hashed through in the past..but it looks like its been a couple of years since it was discussed, so...

I am seeking input on what dash shelf folks would recommend for an ST1300. I am currently using reservoir cover Ram systems from MCL to mount my Zumo 550 and Escort RD. They work fine, but block my view of the ST's controls. I'd really like to mount them higher and more centered than I am able to do using the reservoir covers...hence, a shelf mounted on the upper dash of the bike makes more sense to me.

What shelf systems are you all using that you'd recommend?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Bob
 
The RBIS system is a nice design...simple, clean looking. However, I am perplexed as to how it attaches to the bike. Also, will the triple ball system handle the weight of three devices? Does pushing buttons on a GPS flex the system and cause it to loosen?

Any help?

Thanks again,

Bob
 
You remove the two plastic rivets holding the top of the dash. There are metal clips that are threaded that clip into the plastic under the dash. Them you use screws to hold the bracket to the dash.
There is no flexing using the buttons on the gps. (i have the Zumo 660)
Larry tested the 3 ball mount and had no issues.
 
I took a 1/4" x 1" chunk of aluminum that is about 8" long and drilled a couple holes in it. I mounted it to the same location as the RBIS using some nylon spacers I got at ACE along with some U-nuts in 1/4-20 and some stainless 1/4"-20 allen head screws. On that I have a double RAM mount at this point in time which I have mounted a camera on. It seems to work well for me but will work better once I go back to a stock windscreen. My Clearview has the optional 5 position Goldwing vent and it is in the way of the camera in some positions.

I tossed this together right before MLR and used it a little on the way down. Once there we got too much rain to have my camera up as it isn't an all weather one. I think I have about $20 into it. Most of it is stuff I had laying around which is why I don't know how much I spent on it for sure. I still want to paint it up.
 
sennister said:
I took a 1/4" x 1" chunk of aluminum that is about 8" long and drilled a couple holes in it. I mounted it to the same location as the RBIS using some nylon spacers I got at ACE along with some U-nuts in 1/4-20 and some stainless 1/4"-20 allen head screws. On that I have a double RAM mount at this point in time which I have mounted a camera on. It seems to work well for me but will work better once I go back to a stock windscreen. My Clearview has the optional 5 position Goldwing vent and it is in the way of the camera in some positions.

I tossed this together right before MLR and used it a little on the way down. Once there we got too much rain to have my camera up as it isn't an all weather one. I think I have about $20 into it. Most of it is stuff I had laying around which is why I don't know how much I spent on it for sure. I still want to paint it up.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the exact same thing I did. I used threaded stand-offs. Same hardware otherwise. Total of $9.00. (Already had the paint) Before inserting the bolts, I put a couple little bolt head caps I found in the Lowes fastener dept. Covers them up quite neatly.
 

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cola_fiend2003 said:
Sounds like the exact same thing I did. I used threaded stand-offs. Same hardware otherwise. Total of $9.00. (Already had the paint) Before inserting the bolts, I put a couple little bolt head caps I found in the Lowes fastener dept. Covers them up quite neatly.
Click to expand...

hi,
trying to do one off these myself, i live in the uk

i know you mentioned threaded stand offs is there another name for these i,ll be looking in the UK for them

thanks

rob
 
bimota said:
hi,
trying to do one off these myself, i live in the uk

i know you mentioned threaded stand offs is there another name for these i,ll be looking in the UK for them

thanks

rob
Click to expand...

Basically I used a spacer. You could either stack several washers, take a bit of tubing or pipe and adjust until you got the desired amount of clearance for the curvature of the dash.

Stand offs are basically something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Spacer-...e=UTF8&qid=1342618683&sr=8-10&keywords=spacer

I used something like this that was nylon and then painted them black. I didn't buy a 100 of them just the two that I needed from a hardware store.
 
sennister said:
I took a 1/4" x 1" chunk of aluminum that is about 8" long and drilled a couple holes in it. I mounted it to the same location as the RBIS using some nylon spacers I got at ACE along with some U-nuts in 1/4-20 and some stainless 1/4"-20 allen head screws. On that I have a double RAM mount at this point in time which I have mounted a camera on. It seems to work well for me but will work better once I go back to a stock windscreen. My Clearview has the optional 5 position Goldwing vent and it is in the way of the camera in some positions.

I tossed this together right before MLR and used it a little on the way down. Once there we got too much rain to have my camera up as it isn't an all weather one. I think I have about $20 into it. Most of it is stuff I had laying around which is why I don't know how much I spent on it for sure. I still want to paint it up.
Click to expand...

hi sennister,
i,m trying in the uk to make one my self i have ordered a peice off ally flat bar, now i need spacers i take it any spacer will do as long as the bolts i use go through the middle and they sit in the recess on top of dash you used nylon not ally did you.
also can you say what u bolts are are they the spring clip that is on fairings that usually the 6mm fairing bolt goes through and tightens

thanks

rob
 
hi sennister,

again sorry, what size allen bolts have you used 6mm or 5mm, is the inside diameter of the spacer 6mm or 5mm
thanks

rob
 
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HI, lads

once you have the stuff to do this how easy is it to get under the 2 top dash bolts for mounting,
i take it it,s screen off is the black plastic dash piece under the screen just held with the 6 pull out screws, do i need to do anything else

thanks again for your help

rob
 
Here is the only pic I have handy.

I had installed the u-nuts when I had the entire dash apart to do my HID install and garage door opener install. I put them in place with short allen head bolts until I got around to installing the shelf bar. The spacers are about 1/2" long I would say. As for the size of the size of the space hole and all that. It really only matters what size U-nut you use. If they are 5mm then you would need 5mm hole in the spacer but 6mm would work as well. The spacer isn't threaded on the inside it is just better looking than stacking a bunch of washers to get the clearance needed.


U bolts/U nuts whatever you want to call them are a captured nut with a spring loaded tab to hold the nut in place so you can run the bolt in to hold it in place. The length of your bolt and the length of the space will depend on how thick your aluminium bar is and how much clearance you need to clear the curve of the dash. I also used a nylon or plastic spacer but a metal one would work just as well.


Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
 

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Here is an example of what a U-nut looks like.

31XmBemJfIL._SL500_AA300_.jpg



Many times they are used in automotive applications to do things like hold dash panels and door panels together.

For the bolt I just picked up some Stainless Steel Allen head bolts that fit the U-nut and were about 2" long maybe. They were a tight fit. It is kind of a pain to get them started in the threads right. Part of that is due to the fact that the bolts are not parallel with each other due to the curvature of the dash.
 
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sennister said:
Here is an example of what a U-nut looks like.

31XmBemJfIL._SL500_AA300_.jpg



Many times they are used in automotive applications to do things like hold dash panels and door panels together.

For the bolt I just picked up some Stainless Steel Allen head bolts that fit the U-nut and were about 2" long maybe. They were a tight fit. It is kind of a pain to get them started in the threads right. Part of that is due to the fact that the bolts are not parallel with each other due to the curvature of the dash.
Click to expand...

Thanks again i have those u bolts in 5mm form so thats good, just looked on ebay in the uk loads of black nylon spacers so i,ll get ordreing thanks again
for your help

rob
 
bimota said:
Thanks again i have those u bolts in 5mm form so thats good, just looked on ebay in the uk loads of black nylon spacers so i,ll get ordreing thanks again
for your help

rob
Click to expand...

You should be able to get a rough estimate on the length of the bolt and spacer once you have the aluminium bar. Well I guess if you know the thickness of the bar you can just add it to the distance needed. Just take a straight edge to represent the bar and see how much clearance is needed to clear the curve. I am trying to think off the top of my head how long the spacers are on mine. I think I said 1/2" earlier. As I do my finger test sitting here I think they are longer than that. 3/4" maybe. I know they weren't metric. That doesn't matter as long as the hole fits your bolt. Like a washer it isn't a big deal if there is a little slop there. Once you tighten it down it won't go anywhere.
 
bobframe said:
I'd really like to mount them higher and more centered than I am able to do using the reservoir covers...hence, a shelf mounted on the upper dash of the bike makes more sense to me.
Click to expand...
I know you said you'd like things higher, but just to throw out an idea, I went the other route. I seldom look at my AM/FM radio, so it went to the bottom, and the Zumo 665 went on top ... just below the speedometer in my line of sight. The MixIt2 master volume control is at top-left, and the XM satellite puck at top-right. But the BIG IMPROVEMENT was I made my dashboard so the whole assembly comes off in one piece. Photos can be seen in THIS gallery.
 
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