Utility Trailer Ideas

[dduelin]

This used 4 x 8 utility trailer weighs 460 lbs ( I had to take it to a public scale for a weight ticket in order to tag it ) and the tongue weight is much too light. It's a boat trailer converted to a cargo deck utility trailer. I am retiring at the end of the year and I bought the trailer with the idea of doing some traveling with my wife and bringing a bike along. She is just not up to traveling long distances on the bike anymore and if we do this together the trailer is necessary. Unladen the tongue weight (TW) is less than 4% although when I towed it the 20 miles home from the shop that built it towed just fine. Scary though when I determined the tongue weight was about 16 lbs! With the NC700X tied down on it the TW is 60 lbs, 6%, and with the RT on it the TW is 8%. I didn't measure the TW with the Goldwing as I saw the pattern developing. I want the TW in the recommended 10-15% of loaded trailer weight.

I thought about taking it back to the welder that built it and have him move the axle back some distance but there are steel angle cross members welded as upside down "L" shapes that complicate just welding new spring hangers to the chassis rails. I messed around with jack stands at different distances from where the axle is now and to get a minimum 9 - 10% TW unladen the axle has to move 6" back or exactly where the cross members interfere with the up and down travel needed for the leaf springs. I read about a similar situation and that owner mounted a couple of ammo cans on either side of the tongue member. He placed sand and scrap metal into the containers and gets the tongue weight to minimum 10%. I gathered 52 lbs of stuff and placed it on the tongue member at the front of the cargo deck and this increased the TW to 10% unladen. I'd like to do this and the .50 caliber ammo cans have a capacity of 34 lbs. I like the idea that I could adjust the tongue weight to whatever bike was loaded on the trailer.

So how to mount the ammo cans or some other way to hold weight? Have the welder fab up some sort of carriers or use 4 bolts in a manner like the trailer jack is mounted? I could drill holes in the cans DIY for the bolts and clamp them to the tongue member. What other ideas come to mind to provide a way to secure an adjustable 40 - 60 lbs of weight just in front of the cargo deck?

 

[Larry Fine]

You could shorten the tongue a bit, or cut a pocket in the front rail for the bike's front-wheel to fit in.

 

[Ron]

Is the tongue part of the hitch bolted on or welded on? If bolted, cut the tongue and move it to where you want it.

 

[dduelin]

Is the tongue part of the hitch bolted on or welded on? If bolted, cut the tongue and move it to where you want it.

The tongue is 3" x 2" box section and welded to the cargo deck.

 

[Obo]

For those of you wondering why having the optimum tongue weight matters, here's a short video on weight distribution for a towed trailer.

 

[Bmacleod]

What about putting lead shot in the tongue "bar"

 

[Larry Fine]

The tongue is 3" x 2" box section and welded to the cargo deck.

If you feel like getting creative, you could make an adjustable-length tongue.

You'd need a slip-fit tube (2.5 x 1.5?), holes, and a couple of receiver-hitch pins.

Added: Found a pic of a similar idea:

 

[Larry Fine]

If you must use ballast, make it useful:

 

[Obo]

What about adding a rack suitable for a cooler, gas can, and any ballast you'd like to strap in or bolt from below? Something multipurpose.

Think a rack like this (mesh or solid), welded onto the tongue against the deck frame. Or you could give it some sides as well.




You could bolt the ammo cans and strap them down.

 

[Bulitt]

Shortening your tongue will solve your problem.

By the way, your wing will need more than 8 feet unless you remove the grate ramp in your picture. That grate won’t close with your wing loaded if it is exactly 8 feet.

 

[ST-venture]

Adding a "pocket" in the front that holds a wheel chock might fix both the TW and length problem.

 

[Obo]

Too short a tounge can cause issues. It's not just about weight distribution.

Taken from: https://mechanicalelements.com/correct-trailer-tongue-length/

"Other Inherent Stability Benefits

In the Article about Trailer Strength (on the Synthesis website), we talk just briefly about trailer tongue length. A longer-ish tongue — within reason — has nifty advantages.

Turning Radius is compromised with a really short tongue. The tongue should be long enough for a good turning radius, and to allow clearance when backing. Short tongues impede back up ability, turning radius and jack-knife susceptibility. Backing a long trailer is much easier than a short one, and part of that is trailer tongue length.

A longer tongue is nice for extending axle separation (distance from the tow vehicle rear axle to the trailer front axle) for both stability and bounce.

Finally, the loading distribution on the trailer is less sensitive with a longer tongue. This is a minor effect, and you must always be conscience of the way a trailer is loaded, but having a little less tongue weight with a long tongue is easier to manage. Basically, the shorter the tongue, the higher the percentage of trailer weight should be on the hitch. Within the guidelines, of course. "

 

[Bulitt]

Too short a tounge can cause issues. It's not just about weight distribution.

Taken from: https://mechanicalelements.com/correct-trailer-tongue-length/

"Other Inherent Stability Benefits

In the Article about Trailer Strength (on the Synthesis website), we talk just briefly about trailer tongue length. A longer-ish tongue — within reason — has nifty advantages.

Turning Radius is compromised with a really short tongue. The tongue should be long enough for a good turning radius, and to allow clearance when backing. Short tongues impede back up ability, turning radius and jack-knife susceptibility. Backing a long trailer is much easier than a short one, and part of that is trailer tongue length.

A longer tongue is nice for extending axle separation (distance from the tow vehicle rear axle to the trailer front axle) for both stability and bounce.

Finally, the loading distribution on the trailer is less sensitive with a longer tongue. This is a minor effect, and you must always be conscience of the way a trailer is loaded, but having a little less tongue weight with a long tongue is easier to manage. Basically, the shorter the tongue, the higher the percentage of trailer weight should be on the hitch. Within the guidelines, of course. "

This is good info and of course accurate…..but here is where we get into opinion.

The pictured trailer has a longer tongue, than is necessary to trailer motorcycles. I am guessing it has do to the fact that it is converted from a boat trailer and since boats have a long bow, the trailer needs a longer tongue. Boat trailers also have their axles further rear because that is where the weight of the boat is heaviest. Not so with a bike trailer.

For Dave’s application of hauling bikes, the tongue doesn’t need to be that long and would in fact be more stable for his application by shortening it some……also solving his tongue weight issue.

As I see it, to increase his tongue weight to recommend specs, his options are, shorten the tongue a bit, add weight to the front of the trailer, use a bit more of a drop on his hitch ball, or a combination of the above.

If it were mine, I would take approximately 12 inches off the tongue, make sure I had the proper drop on my ball to keep the trailer deck level and call it a day. Because of the small footprint (4 X 8) of the trailer that is likely all it needs for any load you could safely put on it.

 

[dduelin]

Shortening your tongue will solve your problem.

By the way, your wing will need more than 8 feet unless you remove the grate ramp in your picture. That grate won’t close with your wing loaded if it is exactly 8 feet.

Yes, the Wing needs about 6" beyond 98" so the ramp is removable by sliding it to one side.

I've had a number of boat trailers over the years and the thought of making an already short trailer shorter does not appeal although I did consider it. Lowe's, Home Depot, Tractor Supply 2000 lb utility trailers have tongues about 36" long but their axles are set about 60% or more aft of the front edge of the cargo deck while this one is 54% which created the problem. This tongue is 45" so it could be shortened. The UHaul MT has one about 56" long but an MT weighs 800# unladen.

 

[Bulitt]

Yes, the Wing needs about 6" beyond 98" so the ramp is removable by sliding it to one side.

I've had a number of boat trailers over the years and the thought of making an already short trailer shorter does not appeal although I did consider it. Lowe's, Home Depot, Tractor Supply 2000 lb utility trailers have tongues about 36" long but their axles are set about 60% or more aft of the front edge of the cargo deck while this one is 54% which created the problem. This tongue is 45" so it could be shortened. The UHaul MT has one about 56" long but an MT weighs 800# unladen.

Sounds like you are on the right track then of adding weight to the front in some fashion. A little “Mcguivering“ and I am sure you will have it sorted. Lots of ways to skin a cat…..

Oh…..and congratulations on retiring!

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

While reading your post I was picturing a tongue tool box also Dave. As I scrolled down, there it is. It certainly gives you a lot of choices, not just ballast. Putting the ballast in the ammo cans and adding or subtracting as needed to the conditions. The wheel chock, tire iron, jack, and some spare chains is always nice to stow too.

 

[ReSTored]

While reading your post I was picturing a tongue tool box also Dave. As I scrolled down, there it is. It certainly gives you a lot of choices, not just ballast. Putting the ballast in the ammo cans and adding or subtracting as needed to the conditions. The wheel chock, tire iron, jack, and some spare chains is always nice to stow too.

Aside from cutting the tongue back or notching the frame for the front wheel a lockable tool box is a great idea. I use mine for chocks, tire iron, small hydraulic jack, some wooden blocks to use while jacking if the ground is uneven + ratchet straps + trailer wheel and tongue locks I use when the trailer is stowed or parked somewhere. You got to keep all of this stuff somewhere and on the trailer and locked is the best place. This setup gives me a tongue weight of 13% on my 6 x 10 foot trailer.

 

[NVDucati]

If you feel like getting creative, you could make an adjustable-length tongue.

You'd need a slip-fit tube (2.5 x 1.5?), holes, and a couple of receiver-hitch pins.

Added: Found a pic of a similar idea:

At this early stage of your "trailer life" you owe it to yourself to get it right. Adding weight that you don't need should be your last choice.
Adding to your considerations is the fact that you are accommodating more than one bike.
I have had boat trailers with telescoping tongues in the past. Your trailer design is perfect for that solution. If you do an image search for "telescopic trailer tongue extension" you will find a ton of examples. (below is just one) If the idea of relying on two bolts feels creepy ... your drawbar just has one pin

And yes, congrats on retirement

 

[Steveguy]

Disregarding tongue length, the way to make the trailer stable has almost entirely to do with the LOAD CENTERLINE in relationship to the AXLE CENTERLINE. Moving the load , moving the axle, or adding forward ballast (essentially moving the load centerline) is what you need to do. A longer tongue will change the frequency of the trailer sway, possibly lessen the amount some, but still may not be really stable. A longer wheelbase is a still good thing, don't shorten the tongue for no reason.

 

[dduelin]

Thank you guys for all the suggestions. I think the way to go is to add a small steel mesh platform crosswise across the tongue member to which I can bolt a toolbox or strap down what-have-you. This would add storage space and address the tongue weight problem. I already contacted the welder to drop off the trailer Friday after Thanksgiving.