Valve Inspection and Adjustment Parts

tlartist

Tom Laux
Joined
Apr 27, 2007
Messages
494
Location
Fall River, WI
Bike
ST1300
I just completed my first valve inspection and adjustment and had the pleasure of adjusting the right side as well as the left. I figured I would share some info in case it helps. This was for a 2006 ST 1300.

Valve Check Parts
If you just need to do the valve check, other than the normal tools, you will need:
  • Feeler Gauge (to check valve clearance) - $12 - http://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-Deluxe-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B0002SQXRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1228702354&sr=1-2
  • Gasket Sealer (to seal cylinder head cover) - $10 - http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Hi-Temp-Gasket-Maker/dp/B000FW7VFU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1228702016&sr=1-5
  • One oring for the crank inspection view hole - 91303-377-000 and one oring for crankshaft bolt - 91356-425-005
Adjust Valves Common Parts
Assuming you need to adjust the valves, some items that are common to both sides include:
  • Hot Cams Shims - $80 - http://www.amazon.com/Cams-7-48-Valve-Shim-3-50mm/dp/B000WJWTM6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1228701777&sr=8-3
  • Caliper (to measure shims) - $13 - I used General 102 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7UD
  • Engine Assembly Lube (for valve lifter and new shims) - about $4 - http://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3333-Extreme-Pressure-Assembly/dp/B000CPAWP6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1228701928&sr=8-3
  • Replacement Washers (sealing washer for cam shaft holder) - 8 total, 4 per side - part no 90463-ML7-000
  • Magnet (to remove valve lifter and shim) - http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R834DIA
Adjust Right Side - Only Parts
If you need to shim the right side you will need the following additional parts because you need to remove the fuel tank and air box. Only needed for the right side:
  • Joint Hose and 2 Clips (lower part of fuel tank, because you need to remove the fuel tank) - one joint hose part no 17545-MCS-G00, one clip part no 90661-SL0-A01, one clamp part no 91405-MCS-G00
  • Air funnel retaining plates (in the air box, because you need to remove the air box) 4 total - one part no 17254-MCS-305 (order one, this is a pack of 4)

Other recommendations, from a variety of sources:
  • Mark the cam sprocket and chain with a sharpie. If you are new to this it just provides a little more comfort that you put it together correctly, with correct chain tension, chain and sprocket lines matching.
  • Hold the chain with wire. Keep tension on the chain. Only do one cam at a time.
  • Put parts in baggies to keep them clean.
  • Skip the stopper tool. Just make your own tool with JB Weld and a small screwdriver (see attached) and hold with vice grip. I tried the stopper tool with 22 gauge steel and it just twisted. Could not get 19 or 20 gauge sheet metal in local hardware stores.
  • Save the Honda shims because they are in finer increments than the Hot Cams shims.
  • Purchase a magnet and put a twist tie in it to pull the valve lifter and shim (see attached).
  • For the right side cam chain tensioner screw, attach some string to the washer to help keep the washer from dropping into the abyss.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,682
Location
Jacksonville
Bike
GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
008131
STOC #
6651
How many miles was on the bike at the time of adjustment?
 
OP
OP
tlartist

tlartist

Tom Laux
Joined
Apr 27, 2007
Messages
494
Location
Fall River, WI
Bike
ST1300
21000 miles. Unlike many I had to adjust 10 of the valves. Some were tight by .002. Took a long time for me because I have never been in an engine before. Maybe 20 hours.
Posted via Mobile Device
 

wjbertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Feb 8, 2005
Messages
4,420
Location
Ventura, CA
Another tip is to stuff a rag into the big oil return galley to stop any dropped parts falling in there. Don't forget to remove them when done!
 

EASt

Streuselkuchen
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
2,058
Location
Minnesota
Bike
S1000XR
Oh, man. Being an absolute mechanical idiot has just made the valve adjustment look to be... intimidating.

Ugh. Thanks for the write up, though.
 

rbs

Joined
Jan 25, 2006
Messages
164
Age
82
Location
Conroe, TX
Bike
08 ST
STOC #
3230
I have a valve shim kit that I will loan out should anyone need it, just let me know.
 
Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Messages
1,355
Location
Southern California
Bike
2014 Yamaha FZ-09
STOC #
7356
Oh, man. Being an absolute mechanical idiot has just made the valve adjustment look to be... intimidating.

Ugh. Thanks for the write up, though.

Seeing it in writing can make it seem much worst than it actually is. If you have someone who has done it before help show you how, it takes all the stress out of the job. Us west coasties have Byron and I can testify to the stress reduction of having the help. The valves, even the adjustment, are actually not that difficult.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,682
Location
Jacksonville
Bike
GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
008131
STOC #
6651
21000 miles. Unlike many I had to adjust 10 of the valves. Some were tight by .002. Took a long time for me because I have never been in an engine before. Maybe 20 hours.
Posted via Mobile Device
Wow, 10 out of spec at the first check. That is unheard of - never having been in an engine before how much experience did you have using feeler gauges?
 
OP
OP
tlartist

tlartist

Tom Laux
Joined
Apr 27, 2007
Messages
494
Location
Fall River, WI
Bike
ST1300
I checked it 4 times throughout the course of the effort. Two times before making changes. Checked it two times after reassembly and the new shims brought it all into spec. I had the exact same reaction. 10 out of spec was not good. Some only by .001 on either side, but since I was in there I decided to bring all back in line.

For those who haven't done this yet, start with plastic removal. If you are OK with that, then do the valve check. This is really pretty easy. I think easier than the brake fluid change. Then if you have some out of spec you can decide if you want to go on. It was really not that bad. Keep in mind that I did this all myself. If you have the shop manual and just follow that you are good. The reason I posted the parts list is because I discovered I needed the parts as I went along.
 

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
5,446
Location
Golden, Colorado
STOC #
1408
Tom, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

Should anyone need this info: the Head Cover Gasket (aka "cylinder head packing" in the service manual) is item 9 in the image below. It is Honda part number 12391-MCS-000, 2 are required.
 

Attachments

Joined
Jul 8, 2008
Messages
186
Location
Vernon BC, Canada
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
8025
Seeing it in writing can make it seem much worst than it actually is. If you have someone who has done it before help show you how, it takes all the stress out of the job. Us west coasties have Byron and I can testify to the stress reduction of having the help. The valves, even the adjustment, are actually not that difficult.
Thanks for the encouragement - I was really scared when I got to the screwdriver and visegrip part.

I really didn't know the gas tank and air assembly had to come off.
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
1,069
Location
SC
Thanks for the encouragement - I was really scared when I got to the screwdriver and visegrip part.

I really didn't know the gas tank and air assembly had to come off.
Are you talking about the Valve check (as your reply is in the Valve Inspection thread)? The tank does NOT need to be removed to do the valve check/adjustment.
 

RCS

Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
1,401
Location
Stamford, CT
I just completed my first valve inspection and adjustment and had the pleasure of adjusting the right side as well as the left. I figured I would share some info in case it helps. This was for a 2006 ST 1300.

Valve Check Parts
If you just need to do the valve check, other than the normal tools, you will need:
Adjust Valves Common Parts
Assuming you need to adjust the valves, some items that are common to both sides include:
Adjust Right Side - Only Parts
If you need to shim the right side you will need the following additional parts because you need to remove the fuel tank and air box. Only needed for the right side:
  • Joint Hose and 2 Clips (lower part of fuel tank, because you need to remove the fuel tank) - one joint hose part no 17545-MCS-G00, one clip part no 90661-SL0-A01, one clamp part no 91405-MCS-G00
  • Air funnel retaining plates (in the air box, because you need to remove the air box) 4 total - one part no 17254-MCS-305 (order one, this is a pack of 4)

Other recommendations, from a variety of sources:
  • Mark the cam sprocket and chain with a sharpie. If you are new to this it just provides a little more comfort that you put it together correctly, with correct chain tension, chain and sprocket lines matching.
  • Hold the chain with wire. Keep tension on the chain. Only do one cam at a time.
  • Put parts in baggies to keep them clean.
  • Skip the stopper tool. Just make your own tool with JB Weld and a small screwdriver (see attached) and hold with vice grip. I tried the stopper tool with 22 gauge steel and it just twisted. Could not get 19 or 20 gauge sheet metal in local hardware stores.
  • Save the Honda shims because they are in finer increments than the Hot Cams shims.
  • Purchase a magnet and put a twist tie in it to pull the valve lifter and shim (see attached).
  • For the right side cam chain tensioner screw, attach some string to the washer to help keep the washer from dropping into the abyss.
Thank you for all this great information. I checked my valve clearances for the first time as I just turned 16,000 miles. After 15 valve clearance checks I was batting 100%. I knew it was too good to be true. On the last check - cylinder #2 front exhaust valve - I was out of spec. I figured it couldn't be possible, so I rotated the crank three separate times to measure cylinder #2 again, and again, and again. Yep, it was out of spec.

So, I buttoned everything up and will either borrow or purchase a shim kit and all the parts needed to perform the shim adjustment on that one exhaust valve.

Do you think I can use a pencil magnet to get the shim out?
 

RCS

Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
1,401
Location
Stamford, CT
"Air funnel retaining plates (in the air box, because you need to remove the air box) 4 total - one part no 17254-MCS-305 (order one, this is a pack of 4)"

Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that these don't come in packs of 4. I need to reorder 3 more plates before I can begin my shim change. That moves me into a January 2010 shim change. Burrrr.....
 

rbs

Joined
Jan 25, 2006
Messages
164
Age
82
Location
Conroe, TX
Bike
08 ST
STOC #
3230
"Air funnel retaining plates (in the air box, because you need to remove the air box) 4 total - one part no 17254-MCS-305 (order one, this is a pack of 4)"

Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that these don't come in packs of 4. I need to reorder 3 more plates before I can begin my shim change. That moves me into a January 2010 shim change. Burrrr.....
Why are you buying the retaining plates? I have rebent mine many times with no problem!
 

Blrfl

Natural Rider Enhancement
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
5,601
Age
55
Location
Northern Virginia
Bike
Fast Blue One
STOC #
4837
"Air funnel retaining plates (in the air box, because you need to remove the air box) 4 total - one part no 17254-MCS-305 (order one, this is a pack of 4)"

Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that these don't come in packs of 4.
That's verrrrry curious. The '305 part shows as a full set ("PLATE SET") in the fiche. I ordered the same part number (just checked the invoice) a year or two ago and got a four-pack. There was a 'G00 version of the same part that was sold singly and is listed in the fiche for 2004 and earlier. Check the package and make sure you didn't get the old part.

But yeah, you can re-use the retaining plates many times. I figured after five years of having the air box on and off a lot it was time for a set of new ones.

--Mark
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,537
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
Yet another reason to keep the 1100? I just finished shim change on both STs. I'm experienced now (nearly 300,000 miles of riding, first shim change for me.) :D

Good on you for sticking to an intimidating job and getting it done right.
 
Top Bottom