Vredestein Hypertrac All Season Tire

[970mike]

@970mike so how does the Vredestein compare to the BF Goodrich G Force comp2 A?S+ you were riding on?

The BFG is less expensive for me and easier to get up here.

The BFG is a good tire, the Vredestein is a great tire and handles so much better then the BFG. I have also ordered one for my 12 ST1300 and will install it when the PR5 wears out.

 

[Obo]

The BFG is a good tire, the Vredestein is a great tire and handles so much better then the BFG. I have also ordered one for my 12 ST1300 and will install it when the PR5 wears out.

I just wish the Vredestein looked symmetrical

 

[Larry Fine]

I just wish the Vredestein looked symmetrical

It's actually more symmetrical than most non-symmetrical tires. The sipes are the main differences.

 

[Obo]

I also just noticed the UTQG rating on the Vredestein vs the BF Goodrich

Vred is 500 AA A while the BFG is 400 A A.

So the Vred will hypothetically last a bit longer and has a bit shorter wet stopping distance.

 

[cneher]

Man guys - this is awesome to hear.

I'm picking up an '06 ST1300 in a few days that will need some tires.

Year round riding in Oklahoma with a 500+ mile commute each week.

The Double Dark Vredestein / BT46 setup sounds like it will be perfect for my needs!

Grateful for the knowledge base here!

 

[Sadlsor]

Still working for me.
This combo, that is.

 

[Obo]

Man guys - this is awesome to hear.

I'm picking up an '06 ST1300 in a few days that will need some tires.

Year round riding in Oklahoma with a 500+ mile commute each week.

The Double Dark Vredestein / BT46 setup sounds like it will be perfect for my needs!

Grateful for the knowledge base here!

Welcome to the forum!

 

[cneher]

Welcome to the forum!

Thanks Obo!

Man I’m freakin PUMPED!
Picked the bike up yesterday and got her back at the house. She’s going to need some work but that’s okay.
2006 ST1300 non-ABS 159,000 miles

In retrospect I really should have negotiated more - paid $2,000 - but I got so dang excited at how clean it looked - and that the bike was well within my budget - a lot of logic went out the window.

Phase 1:
Replace the front & rear wheel bearings, tires double dark, brake pads, SMC, Steering Stem Bearing, Air Filter, all the fluids, & Headlight w/ L2 LED.

Any suggestions on other wearable items I should knock out while I’m going through the bike? 2nd owner stated the owner replaced the fuel pump at some point before 150,000 miles.

 

[970mike]

Phase 1:
Replace the front & rear wheel bearings, tires double dark, brake pads, SMC, Steering Stem Bearing, Air Filter, all the fluids, & Headlight w/ L2 LED.

Any suggestions on other wearable items I should knock out while I’m going through the bike? 2nd owner stated the owner replaced the fuel pump at some point before 150,000 miles.

You should check the U-Joint and if it needs replacement change out the output oil seal while in there.

 

[MidLife]

Looks good!

Nit picking here. Maybe personal preference, but I wouldn't tie it down at the hand rail. And may be safer to have the hook at the crash guard facing down.

All the best with your preps!

 

[SMSW]

It's actually more symmetrical than most non-symmetrical tires. The sipes are the main differences.

Symmetrical is like a light switch. You cannot modify it - it is either symmetrical or it is not - like a light switch w/o a dimmer.

Any suggestions on other wearable items I should knock out while I’m going through the bike? 2nd owner stated the owner replaced the fuel pump at some point before 150,000 miles.

This should keep you out of trouble for a little bit. You can ignore some of the items if the PO gave you a detailed maintenance history (after you check what it says).

Article - Maintenance Items Needed for a New (old) Bike | Articles

This article is the result of collaboration by Andrew Shadow, CYYJ, jfheath, Max Pete, SMSW, and SupraSabre. Igofar’s list was copied from the first link listed above. Click on the attached file. This one is V.11; in the future, any changes will be noted in the title on the first page as the...

www.st-owners.com

 

[cneher]

He guys - thanks for your input!

I just ordered the Vredestein to run on the back and am about to pull the trigger on the REAR BT46 to run on the front.

Before I do this, I just wanted to make sure nobody is having issues running the REAR BT46 on the front.

This is going to be a year round commuter (with the exception of ice on the road) and it’s a pretty big leap for me to go from bike specific front & rears to Double Dark.

I really appreciate the insight!

 

[970mike]

He guys - thanks for your input!

I just ordered the Vredestein to run on the back and am about to pull the trigger on the REAR BT46 to run on the front.

Before I do this, I just wanted to make sure nobody is having issues running the REAR BT46 on the front.

This is going to be a year round commuter (with the exception of ice on the road) and it’s a pretty big leap for me to go from bike specific front & rears to Double Dark.

I really appreciate the insight!

Get the BT46 in the size 120/80/18 not the 130/70/18 as the 130 is way to wide and will rub on the fender.

 

[Sadlsor]

I found out you will need to put the front fender back on first, if you take it off, BEFORE you put the BT46 on the front.
Leave the fender loose until the tire is on the axle, in the forks. Then snug it.
That fender really doesn't want to go on, after
the tire is installed.

 

[cneher]

When there's a will there's a way.
Thanks for the tire tips guys - works great.
Now to fix the brakes.

 

[jodog]

When there's a will there's a way.
Thanks for the tire tips guys - works great.
Now to fix the brakes.

Did you mount that backtire yourself?

 

[Sadlsor]

Did you mount that backtire yourself?

Jodog, you're thinking like me.

 

[W0QNX]

I'm not sure if cneher did it himself but I have done every tire myself.

Tips:
Use ratchet straps hooked to the rim spokes and small blocks to force the bead down towards the center of the side opposite of the last bead.
A warm tire and lots of lube helps a bunch.
A wife that will hold a 3rd spoon to keep the tire bead from popping off helps a bunch. Take small steps at a time. Like move the pry bar over the least amount possible maybe 2"?

Edit add: I usually don't pry down the last 3 or 5 inches, I have a large rubber mallet that I pound it down with to not use a prybar on that last tight area.

I usually get the last bead down fairly easy to about 8" to 10" of harder bead left to pry over the rim edge. If you have much more than that the other sides needs to be down in the rim center more.

I have no tire machine just straps lube and pry bars. I just did the R1250RT rim Saturday. It was about the same as on the ST.

 

[MidLife]

Did you mount that backtire yourself?

Jodog, you're thinking like me.

He said.....

Hey guys, just purchased a '06 ST1300 Non-ABS and ran it by the local bike shop to get some tires mounted.

 

[Sadlsor]

Well I'll be obtuse... I just went back and reread from his first post (p. 2) in this thread, rereading each of his posts, and still don't see that quote here.
No matter.
I'll just trust that you're quoting him.
Should be some good longish time before I'm faced with mounting the next Vredestein tire anyway, unless some mean and nasty road demon tries to take a bite out of it.