What else should be done during timing belt replacement?

[Larry Fine]

It's past time to replace the timing belt on my '96 ST. What else should be done? Water pump, pulleys, and T-stat?

Does anyone have a complete list with every part, gasket, etc., including part numbers, that should be addressed?

Thank you all to pieces!

 

[Sunday Rider]

Have you changed the coolant hoses including the ones under the carbs?
If you take the carbs out might as well change the rubber boots under them.

 

[kiltman]

What’s your mileage on that 96? My old 1990 is still on the original water pump with 220k kms, original idler and tension pulley. Since you have two running ST’s. I would take it apart and do a true assessment of what you need. A new pump is expensive and if you only put a few thousand miles on it per year, I wouldn’t change it unless I really need to.
I do have the water pump out of my 97 it has 80k miles on it and it’s as good as new. I didn’t change the idler or tension pulley on them and that bike is going strong with 130k miles on it.
If anything, buy a Gates timing belt, you’re gonna change that anyway, if everything else is OK do the belt and you’re done, if not order the parts needed and the bike is out of commission for two weeks till the parts come in.
it’s about $400 in parts that you may or may not need, money better spent elsewhere,

 

[Oldbikefixr]

This is a good opportunity to check your valve clearances.

 

[ST1100Y]

Ditto on idler + spanner pulley and w/pump while already in there...
Overhauling clutch master+ slave cylinder comes to mind.
Clutch? How many miles? How abused? (urban commute, etc...)
Brake masters, calipers if pushing pistons in gets noticeable hard...
Head bearings...
Fork oil, possible rebuild...
All coolant hoses + elbow fittings (and the notoriously overlooked/neglected bypass hose behind t/belt casing)
f/drive oil, hub dampers, alu inserts...

 

[St-Gerard]

While you have the belt off , i would spin the water pump ,and other pulley/tensioners to hear for any noises,and firmerly hold each pulley and side load them as you slowly rotate them to feel for pitts in the bearings. I have seen more stuff get buggered up replacing parts that are perfectly okay then I can count. Of course if you do feel pitts our roughness replacement time

 

[Sunday Rider]

Does anyone have a complete list with every part, gasket, etc., including part numbers, that should be addressed?

Thank you all to pieces!

Here is a link to parts on ST-Riders.net

Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ( ST1100 ) *

Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ( ST1100 ) *

www.st-riders.net

or the original here from Mike Martin's fabulous ST1100 page

*** Mike Martin's ST1100 Maintenance Tips - Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ***

We want pics and a full report on your progress. But don't let it get in the way of your riding. Looks like a huge job.

With the listed prices the post can go on the "Old Enough to Remember Thread".

 

[kiltman]

With the listed prices the post can go on the "Old Enough to Remember Thread".

Here’s my argument for only doing what is necessary. This 96 Honda currently does more miles on a trailer than actual riding miles. From what I recall the previous owner took good care of it. The current owner probably only has another 10 years left in being able to ride an ST 1100, and will then look for something more manageable to ride. I’m also guessing that it sees about 5k miles per year of actual use, times 10 years 50k miles, so whatever is on the clock now plus 50k. Change the belt inspect the other components and replace if necessary.
I’m pretty sure that if the coolant is changed with Honda friendly coolant every two years, the bike will do just fine for the current riding lifespan of the owner.

 

[Larry Fine]

What’s your mileage on that 96?=

Just over 100,000 miles, already on it when I got it a year ago.

Except for needing a new choke cable, it run's perfectly well.

The clutch engages well, brakes are excellent, no rear drive noise.

I just don't want to risk bending valves due to the belt breaking.

I will have a local independent bike mechanic shop do the work.

 

[Sunday Rider]

Honda friendly coolant every two years, the bike will do just fine for the current riding lifespan of the owner.

Which reminds me I haven’t changed the coolant in mine for at least 4 years.

 

[kiltman]

I will have a local independent bike mechanic shop do the work

I think that’s a good idea ( mostly because that’s what I did with all three of the ST1100s I have owned). .
If I may suggest, that you remove the appropriate Tupperware ( no doubt you thought of this). This will save you 2 hours of shop time, it insures that you will have all the right fasteners and no tabs will be broken. The bonus being you will also be able to install that Rostra cruise control you have on the shelf because the plastic is off.
Given that a shop is doing the work I understand why you want to have all possible parts on hand, having said that maybe they can deal with waiting for a week if in fact say you needed a new water pump. Or you can get a water pump bearing kit which will save you some coin.

 

[Larry Fine]

Here is a link to parts on ST-Riders.net

Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ( ST1100 ) *

Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ( ST1100 ) *

www.st-riders.net

or the original here from Mike Martin's fabulous ST1100 page

*** Mike Martin's ST1100 Maintenance Tips - Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ***

We want pics and a full report on your progress. But don't let it get in the way of your riding. Looks like a huge job.

Thank you. I will email both links to him just in case he'd like additional perspectives.

I'll update progress, but I don't know whether I'll be able to take pics. I will ask him.

I'd consider doing the work myself if I had a garage, a lift table, the tools, the energy.

 

[Larry Fine]

Thank all of you for your suggestions. Please post more if you think of anything else.

Here's my list so far:

Replace timing belt
Change oil and filter
Rebuild front fork
Replace rear end oil
Replace rear O-rings
Replace choke cable
Troubleshoot cruise

Check front & rear brakes
Check pump & pulleys
Check coolant hoses
Check valve clearances
Check rear drive cushions
Check steering bearings
Check swing-arm bearings
Check wheel bearings

 

[Larry Fine]

The bonus being you will also be able to install that Rostra cruise control you have on the shelf because the plastic is off.

Actually, the '96 came with what I believe is an Audiovox CC that presently does not engage.

The Rostra kit is intended for my '01 ST.

 

[STFlips]

Larry, I've got the manual on that Audiovox CC if you need it for troubleshooting (thanks to Robert)

 

[Larry Fine]

Larry, I've got the manual on that Audiovox CC if you need it for troubleshooting (thanks to Robert)

That's great. Is it email-able?

 

[STFlips]

Sure I will PM it to you

 

[Erdoc48]

What I did was what others suggested (although my STs were at way lower mileage than 100K):
-Timing belt
-all hoses (at the heads and the main radiator hoses) plus the metal elbows and O rings
-left the WP alone as well as idler
-new carb boots (as long as you’re in there…)
That was it- I see a lot of people change coolant frequently. I changed the coolant in the scooter when it had 7K miles on it and 20 years later (original coolant)- looked like new from the bottle. My 100K mile rated Prestone has been in both STs since the hose and belt change and still looks like new with ~ 15K or so miles on each bike since the hose and belt swaps. Many will disagree but I likely won’t change it out for another couple of years. I changed out the steering head bearings on both STs as well in the recent past, and used new fork oil in the 2000 and the 03 SWing (Amsoil 5 weight ’Shock Therapy’)- no glitter in the old fluid (on the 2000 which now has 47K miles on it and I did not swap the bushings or the fork seals as there’s no leaking) and rides VERY well (and swapped the springs in the scoot for HyperPro springs)- I’m done maintaining for a bit- nice weather dictates it’s time to ride for the summer! I’m starting to think like UP (with several hundred thousand miles on STs)- maintain properly, but if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!

To Larry: you may save a few hours of labor charges if you strip the plastics off the bike (not that it takes that long but you know you will be billed for it).

 

[kiltman]

Actually, the '96 came with what I believe is an Audiovox CC that presently does not engage.

The Rostra kit is intended for my '01 ST.

The audiovox works best with a vacuum tank. If vacuum is an issue, meaning leaks you might hear a slight backfire noise in the mid rev range. The most common problem with it not engaging is the brake circuit, there’s also a fuse from the servo attached to an orange wire in that circuit, you can check to see if that’s good.
Sometimes it’s best to put a relay in even if there isn’t an LED light in the brake circuit.
Most installs of the Audiovox system rely on the tachometer for speed control ( blue wire hooked up to the yellow white wire coming out of the coil). Some have used magnets in the brake disk and a sensor on the swingarm hooked up to the gray wire and black wire. That connection may be vulnerable to the elements.
There is a troubleshooting red LED light in the servo, a pain to get at, it will be in the instructions that Bruce will send you.
The control switch supplied by Audiovox can be an issue, there is a chance it may have been compromised by the weather, silicone on the joints and sealing the wiring harness as it goes into the switch helps to alleviate that issue.
I remember one fellow had a torn rubber in the piston vacuum, he repaired the tear by using a piece of surgical glove and crazy glue.
It could also be the linkage to the carbs.

 

[Larry Fine]

The orange LED on the switch pad goes on and off with the switch, but it doesn't engage.