What have I missed here?

[JimSTer]

Installed new front wheel bearings in my 03 ST1300A. All went well until I was torquing down the axle bolt. The wheel spins real nice until I torque down the axel bolt. The wheel still turns but with some effort. It's almost as though there is something binding. Can't see or hear anything that sounds bad.
I watched John Heath's video and followed his procedure to the letter. So I'm reasonably sure that the bearings and spacer are correctly installed.
I've had it apart and checked everything several times. I know that my dust seales and collars are installed correctly per my shop manual and the post concerning them.

What now?

 

[Igofar]

I always find using a wheel bearing installer tool - think threaded rod, better than just whacking them in.
You may have seated the bearings too tight against the inner collar or spacer, thus the extra torque causes them to bind.
On some wheels you always seat the first bearing on the left side or rotor side, then insert the collar or spacer, then just seat the other side bearing until it just lightly touches the collar.
This way it does not bind. I'll have to check the service manual to remember how these Honda bearings are installed. I've hardly seen any of them that need replacing so far.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Igofar

 

[ST1100Y]

Since they seize upon torque of the axle bolt, and assuming that they have proper width, it seems that one/both of the outer races are not fully seated in their beds inside the hub/rum...

After removing the old bearings I carefully clean the seats inside the hub and slightly lube with marine grease.
For installing the new bearing either a pipe or socket (if nothing else avail also the old bearing will do, just never hit the cover or the inner race during the procedure) that fits properly on the outer race to tap the new bearing in; left-right-top-bottom, etc... till its fully seated all around (noticeable by a brighter sound).
Flip rim over, do not forget to insert the spacer/collar, same procedure with the other bearing, but with frequent stops to check proper position of the collar inside.

Once the second bearing is fully seated, check if inner races are moving freely or if their 'resting' on the spacer tube.
Ball bearings are designed to handle radial forces only; if their kinda hard to rotate I slightly 'bend' my own protocol for bearing installation, seek an item that fits exactly on the inner race, grab a screwdriver, flip it around to use its handle to slightly tap on the inner race... do so on both sides till the bearings can rotate freely again.

 

[Bigmak96]

+1 that one or all the bearings are not quite seated. If they are the correct width that is. Good luck Jim, I too use a threaded rod to squeeze them into position.

 

[JimSTer]

I always find using a wheel bearing installer tool - think threaded rod, better than just whacking them in.
You may have seated the bearings too tight against the inner collar or spacer, thus the extra torque causes them to bind.
On some wheels you always seat the first bearing on the left side or rotor side, then insert the collar or spacer, then just seat the other side bearing until it just lightly touches the collar.
This way it does not bind. I'll have to check the service manual to remember how these Honda bearings are installed. I've hardly seen any of them that need replacing so far.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Igofar

I'm relatively sure that I installed the bearings exactly as you describe here. I can insert my finger into the axle passage and move the spacer slightly from side to side. Just enough to see about 10 mm of the end of the spacer. Is this too loose?

 

[Kevin_56]

I had one of my spacers installed flipped. Not left to right, but what was suppose to be against the bearing was against the fork tube. It was the shorter one of the two. This caused what you are describing.

Kevin

 

[OhioDeere]

I don't recall specifics exactly on the ST. But I can tell you I have changed allot of front wheels and bearings.
I don't believe you have the spacers installed correctly. As Kevin said. make sure you have the right spacers in the right place.
I do believe the axle bolt when tightened does not bind up on the bearings or used to preload them in any way. All force is tightened up against the spacers through the inner race of the bearing. And yes they probably put a little pressure on the bearngs to keep the balls tight to the race. but not the force of that the nut on the axle can apply.
The bearings are deep ball??? they hold there own. (some one correct me if I'm wrong here).
If i remember, there are 2 spacers in the center, 1 spacer on each side. center spacers are different length then outer.

 

[Kevin_56]

Idea just hit, I know scary thought.

Jim had his rims powder coated. Could there be enough paint to set the bearings out enough to cause a binding when tightening the axel? The inner races would have to move farther to contact the spacer between them in the wheel. Just an idea. This might cause the bind, if the outer spacers are orientated correctly.

Kevin

 

[Kevin_56]

If i remember, there are 2 spacers in the center, 1 spacer on each side. center spacers are different length then outer.

Per the parts book, only one spacer between the bearings, then the two outer ones which are a different length.

 

[OhioDeere]

If He painted the machine fit surfaces in the bearing pocket, then all tolerances are lost. Yes these need to be cleaned out back to original surface. I would believe that these bearing pockets are kept to a .001" tolerance by all means.. When everything is tightened, there should be a minor preload on the bearing and all force as tight as you can get the nut rests on the spacers.

 

[JimSTer]

Thanks much for your suggestions guys.
The pocket for the bearings were not powder coated. I specificly requested all of the machined surfaces and the bearing pockets not be powder coated. The guy acknowledged this and said he was well aware that the areas pointed out by me were not to be powder coated. He says he has powder coated many motorcycle wheels and never had a problem or one returned to him.
As for all of these spacers....... There is one spacer, between the bearings. And one "collar" on either side of the hub that's between the fork leg and the bearing. And yes they can be reversed. However I read all the posts about that and carefully marked each collar so that it went back in just like it came out.
It seems to me that I might not have seated the second bearing all the way in as I was afraid to get it too tight against the inside spacer between the bearings. I plan to "tighten" that up tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again.

 

[JimSTer]

+1 that one or all the bearings are not quite seated. If they are the correct width that is. Good luck Jim, I too use a threaded rod to squeeze them into position.

Thanks much, Mark. Igofar and you both recommended the threaded rod. And I have one that will work along with the nuts and washers that should fit just right.
I let you know after I "squeeze" it a little tomorrow.

 

[Kevin_56]

Thanks much for your suggestions guys.
The pocket for the bearings were not powder coated. I specificly requested all of the machined surfaces and the bearing pockets not be powder coated. The guy acknowledged this and said is was well aware that the areas pointed out by me were not to be powder coated. He says he has powder coated many motorcycle wheels and never had a problem or one returned to him.
As for all of these spacers....... There is one spacer, between the bearings. And one "collar" on either side of the hub that's between the fork leg and the bearing. And yes they can be reversed. However I read all the posts about that and carefully marked each collar so that it went back in just like it came out.
It seems to me that I might not have seated the second bearing all the way in as I was afraid to get it too tight against the inside spacer between the bearings. I plan to "tighten" that up tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again.

When I replaced my front bearings, I used an old one placed on top of the new one and tapped on the outer race of the old bearing to seat the new ones all the way into the hub. Yes the bearing has to sit completely into the hub. I recommend only putting pressure on the outer race. If you apply pressure on the inner race, that then puts pressure on the balls and then the outer race to move that to the bottom of the hub bore. You could flat spot the balls or dent the race walls. You might have a socket that is the right size to match the outer race diameter.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Mondo]

I read this thread and continue to be astounded by the level of knowledge and advice that is available and freely offered on this site. WOW!

Greg

 

[JimSTer]

I read this thread and continue to be astounded by the level of knowledge and advice that is available and freely offered on this site. WOW!

Greg

Yes, that's for sure. Trust me I need assurance when I'm doing these things. And can always count on the people here to step up and fill the gaps with there experiences.

 

[Dinkie Diesel]

I read this thread and continue to be astounded by the level of knowledge and advice that is available and freely offered on this site. WOW!

Greg

I get free advice quite often from fellow motorcyclist. It's a shame I am unable to heed the advice since I'm not a hermaphrodite.

New seals can create a tiny bit of drag? Bearings have to be driven home for sure.

 

[JimSTer]

Bearings have to be driven home for sure.

I drove a new one home yesterday to show my wife. She didn't seem to be too excited about it. So I drove it back to the dealer.

Good news for all the folks who pitched in with their advise. I was able to get the front wheel working correctly after seating the bearings.
I then tackled the rear wheel with a threaded rod and seated
The bearings correctly the first time.
So now it's all back together and all I need now is some warm weather.

Thanks again for the help everybody.

 

[970mike]

I drove a new one home yesterday to show my wife. She didn't seem to be too excited about it. So I drove it back to the dealer.

Good news for all the folks who pitched in with their advise. I was able to get the front wheel working correctly after seating the bearings.
I then tackled the rear wheel with a threaded rod and seated
The bearings correctly the first time.
So now it's all back together and all I need now is some warm weather.

Thanks again for the help everybody.

I knew you had it in you Jim!! Glad you got it sorted out!! :bow1:

 

[JimSTer]

I knew you had it in you Jim!! Glad you got it sorted out!! :bow1:

Thanks again, Mike. Are we going to see you at MSLR?

 

[Bug Dr.]

Jim,
Stick your tire/wheel in the oven to heat it and put the bearings in the freezer.......they'll slide right in. I'm pretty sure your wife won't mind. Just tell her that this tip came free from the folks on this forum
Mike