Wiring For Heated Accessories

[jrp]

I am in the process of wiring up my ST1100A to support heating clothing.

Having never owned heated clothing, I am wondering where the best spot is to terminate the wiring. I was going to run it up to the area just behind the triple tree assuming that I would run up wires from there to heated jacket and gloves. Would those who are heated gear veterans please comment on what worked best for you?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Uncle Phil]

On my ST1100s, I run a Powerlet socket wired with external waterproof wire from over the left grip. The main reason is I also used a wired comm system and that is where the headset plug is located. That way I am 'tethered' in only one spot. I have seen them run up from under the front of the seat also. Some put plugs in the fairing side just below the pockets, others put them in the side panel. The issue is if there is a 'heattroller' involved and where you want to 'hang it' so it is accessible.

 

[rwthomas1]

I run the coaxial power wire up between the seat and "shelter", laid a bit to the left so it connects easily to the wire coming out the left side of my suit. Only has to be about 1ft long and just lays on my left thigh when in use. I use a remote dual heat troller that is velcro'd to the top of the clutch fluid cover. Works perfect, and in warm weather I just tuck the wire under the seat.

RT

 

[jrp]

On my ST1100s, I run a Powerlet socket wired with external waterproof wire from over the left grip. The main reason is I also used a wired comm system and that is where the headset plug is located. That way I am 'tethered' in only one spot. I have seen them rum up from under the front of the seat also. Some put plugs in the fairing side just below the pockets, others put them in the side panel. The issue is if there is a 'heattroller' involved and where you want to 'hang it' so it is accessible.

Thanks for the reply. These are the heat controllers I am using. A guy on advrider bought a bunch awhile back from a surplus store, so I got two of them knowing that at some point I was going to get heated gear. They are five stage controllers and good for up to 70 watts. There is a belt clip on the back:

 

[jfheath]

I have two DIN sockets (Are they the same as the Powerlet ??) - one is just below the left hand side fairing pocket. Left hand side is important if you want to be able to unplug it quickly !!
The other is in the right hand side rear cowl - directly under the gap in the pillion grab rail.

Power comes from the battery - fused at the battery and runs into a 40A relay that is triggered by the on-with-ignition lead that is normally used to feed the quartet harness. Most of my stuff is connected to a separate harness with just one +12v and one 0v connection to the battery, and connectors are provided where each device needs to be plugged in - using suitably rated connectors and cables.

My jacket is a Keiss Vest. It keeps me snug and warm and never gets too hot. I used to have a switch to turn the relay on or off, but never used it. I think the trick is wearing it on top of a thin shirt with other clothing over the top.

 

[ad.hom]

Not a ST11, but my ST13 has a similar setup to John's, above. (I also run Keis jacket & trousers when cold - IIRC, max of about 8A?)

Ignition switched positive to a 40A relay under the seat, with new ground connection added to the frame and then on to the battery using the appropriate wire gauge. When active, the relay takes power from the battery up to a new fuse block under the pillion seat, and from there to wherever it needs to be (positive feeds).

I've also added a new ground connection on the front subframe, and run a separate wire back to the new ground on the main frame.

I guess the main difference would be where to take a switched ignition source from...

 

[ST Gui]

have two DIN sockets (Are they the same as the Powerlet ??)

Yes.

 

[SMSW]

I ran power from an auxiliary fusebox (Eastern Beaver's PC8) up to the front and spliced in a coax connector. My heat troller was mounted on the right handlebar on a small bracket that I made - its very similar to what Oxford supplies with their heated grips. The output from the troller then dove under the fairing in front of the handlebars and over to the left side, where it terminated in a Powerlet mounted just below he glove box. I also ran conductors to the powerlet area directly from the fuse box, so that i could make it hot all the time in warm weather.

 

[jrp]

Thanks for all the replies. I realize now that I'm going to have to mount the heat controller where I can see it, otherwise I will have no way of knowing what setting it is on (well I guess I could tell by how warm I feel, but would rather not do it that way).

 

[dduelin]

I use the supplied fused wire harness for heated clothing and connect directly to the battery and run the connector end out between the front of the seat and the gas tank just inside my thigh. I clip the heat controller on my jacket lower chest left side where I can adjust the knobs with either hand.

 

[jrp]

On the subject of heated gear, I would also appreciate advice on what I will need.

I have a Klim jacket that is a snug fit, so I don't want anything bulky underneath it. Warm & Safe sells a heat layer shirt that looks like I can use with the heat controller I have. Has anyone tried this heated shirt? The specs say the power requirement is 48 watts.

The other piece of gear would be heated gloves. There are numerous glove reviews on this and other sites, so I can read up on them. Would I need a separate controller just for the gloves?

 

[st11ray]

My wires come out between the seat and the tank. I had the alterations shop sew a leather pouch on the left thigh of my leather pants for my heat troller.

 

[rwthomas1]

I think what you are using the bike for plays a role in what you choose. I have a heated jacket from Warm-n-Safe, its very light and thin. I prefer the jacket over the shirt as I am commuting, so taking the jacket on and off is important. If I was touring, I think the shirt may be a better option, put it on and leave it on all day. I had a controller on a wire that came with my Gerbing gloves, which are great BTW. Some prefer heated grips to heated gloves. I can see the merit to both, but I got a deal on the gloves, so..... I found the wired controller annoying, and distracting to use while underway. The remote wireless heat troller seemed frivolous, but mounted to the top of the clutch reservoir it is easy to see, and to adjust. I like the dual channel, one for the jacket, and one for the gloves. Try what you have, your gear, and choices will likely evolve.

RT

 

[Uncle Phil]

I use a dual controller because I want the heat up higher for the gloves than I do for the jacket liner (multiple hand surgeries have made my hands get cold really quick). I used to hang my heattrollers in my left upper jacket pocket when the the pocket openings were straight across. The newer jackets seem to favor slash pockets so I fabbed up some aluminum L shaped brackets that I heavy duty Scotch lock to the top of the clutch reservoir. That way I can see it and adjust it as needed and remove the bracket when I don't need heat.

 

[dduelin]

On the subject of heated gear, I would also appreciate advice on what I will need.

I have a Klim jacket that is snug fit, so I don't want anything bulky underneath it. Warm & Safe sells a heat layer shirt that looks like I can use with the heat controller I have. Has anyone tried this heated shirt? The specs say the power requirement is 48 watts.

The other piece of gear would be heated gloves. There are numerous glove reviews on this and other sites, so I can read up on them. Would I need a separate controller just for the gloves?

Just as kind of an overview most commonly available heated jackets are not insulated and consist of more or less just two layers of windproof material with thin heat pads/elements sewn between the lining and the outer shell. They are designed to fit very snugly over a single layer of clothing next to the skin so the fit under a motorcycle jacket isn't usually a problem but they do add a bit of bulk. The controllers are available in single and dual. A single controls one piece of heated gear. A dual controls two pieces of gear on one person, say jacket and gloves or jacket and pants. A two up couple need two separate controllers.

The heated shirts are thinner yet. I've been tempted to add one to my gear closet but on trips the jacket doubles as, well, a jacket for wearing around the campground or out to dinner at night. It doesn't offer much warmth but with a single or double thin layer under it it has always sufficed on my touring and saves room and weight a real jacket or fleece would take up. I think as a first item to purchase a jacket offers more utility. I use my heated jacket 3 seasons a year just not always heated. The jacket, without heat, is often just enough to start the morning in then peel off at mid-day as temperatures climb.

I have had Gerbings gear for 15 years but I just ordered a new Warm N Safe Generation Jacket with remote dual controller. A member of the forum here is a dealer and you can order Warm N Safe directly off their web site and enter his discount code for 20% off. Certain items are on clearance right now and new jackets are selling for as little as $129.00.

 

[SMSW]

Warm & Safe sells a heat layer shirt that looks like I can use with the heat controller I have. Would I need a separate controller just for the gloves?

A buddy has the W&S heated shirt. He loves it, but be forewarned. The heating does not go all the way down the arms. As for gloves, W&S allows you to use their dual controller and provides a second circuit (I think) so you can power gloves separately. Of course, you will need a second connector to the jacket. Fly in the ointment department: I forget how you do this, I looked at my W&S jacket and did not see an obvious way to power the gloves separately. Go to the W&S website and send them an email with all your questions. Their customer service was first rate for me. Oh, and iirc, they offer a discount to STOC members. Ask about it.

 

[dbst1300]

I use a dual controller for the gloves and jacket liner. I always carry a spare single controller with a splitter cable to power the gloves and jacket in case of a controller failure (which has occurred twice in the last 20 years). Too bad they only fail when it is super cold

 

[kiltman]

I get power from a fuzebloc in my tail section. I run it along the right side of the frame to a lighted switch on the right pocket fairing. I also have a relay in the circuit. The power cable comes back to the seat and when it’s weather for heated gear I run the cable across the frame so it comes out on the left side between the shelter and the seat. I plug my dual controller into it and hang the controller off my tank bag.
I outline what I run in this thread here. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/gears-heated-clothing.174471/
It fits comfortably under my jacket and pants

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

I haven’t read all the replies, just reporting my 25 years experience, refined to:

Switched power from aux fusebox to BMW socket in left pocket fairing just above the knee. I’ll finally get around to replacing with a coax socket one of these years. W&S jacket and glove liners with wireless controller on master cylinder. Route the leads out the left side of your riding gear. You can dismount and stay plugged in if you’re just adjusting something/digging in the tank bag, etc.

Forget you’re still plugged in and step away and it’ll just pop out. Do not route wires out between saddle and tupperware. BTDT and the wire lead eventually shorted, of course just when I really needed it. Hard-wire to a proper socket. I put a quick connector behind all of my mountings (6?) so the fairing pieces can be removed. All wiring loomed and zip-tied neatly to OEM loom or frame. Drill holes... I was never concerned about resale, just function. Plan and execute... permanent install. Peace of mind.

FWIW

John

 

[jrp]

I haven’t read all the replies, just reporting my 25 years experience, refined to:

Switched power from aux fusebox to BMW socket in left pocket fairing just above the knee. I’ll finally get around to replacing with a coax socket one of these years. W&S jacket and glove liners with wireless controller on master cylinder. Route the leads out the left side of your riding gear. You can dismount and stay plugged in if you’re just adjusting something/digging in the tank bag, etc.

Forget you’re still plugged in and step away and it’ll just pop out. Do not route wires out between saddle and tupperware. BTDT and the wire lead eventually shorted, of course just when I really needed it. Hard-wire to a proper socket. I put a quick connector behind all of my mountings (6?) so the fairing pieces can be removed. All wiring loomed and zip-tied neatly to OEM loom or frame. Drill holes... I was never concerned about resale, just function. Plan and execute... permanent install. Peace of mind.

FWIW

John

Thanks John, I'll be sure to install a proper socket. I like the idea of a wireless controller and may go that route. Can you adjust your glove and jacket liners independently?