BakerBoy
It's all small stuff.
Re: ST1300-Valve Adjust, Left Side
I missed this one before... great job Mark! :yes:
I missed this one before... great job Mark! :yes:
Article [13] ST1300 - Valve Adjust, Left Side
- Thread starter okmurdog
- Start date
Re: ST1300-Valve Adjust, Left Side
The way I basically understand it is that if you spin a motor to high rpms, solid lifters provide better performance and more precise control over the valves. Low rpm motors can use hydraulic lifters - high rpm motors benefit from solid or mechanical lifters.
The ST's V4 only spins to 9,000 rpm or so max but that is 3 or 4,000 more than V twins of similar displacement.
What ever happened to hydraulic lifters.
:tools1:
The way I basically understand it is that if you spin a motor to high rpms, solid lifters provide better performance and more precise control over the valves. Low rpm motors can use hydraulic lifters - high rpm motors benefit from solid or mechanical lifters.
The ST's V4 only spins to 9,000 rpm or so max but that is 3 or 4,000 more than V twins of similar displacement.
OP
OP
okmurdog
Will Ride for Pie
I adjusted the right side valves about a year ago, and stumbled across the photos on my computer a couple of days ago (forgot to upload them last year! LOL) - I uploaded the photos in my photo album (https://www.st-owners.com/forums/album.php?albumid=4010). The photos are numbered, along with a brief description about what is going on...although I don't think the photos are in order in the album.
Great photos, and sure appreciated your help when we adjusted mine! BTW, I still have the other half of your shim kit, which I can never remember to get back to you 
: .
: .
OP
OP
okmurdog
Will Ride for Pie
Great photos, and sure appreciated your help when we adjusted mine! BTW, I still have the other half of your shim kit, which I can never remember to get back to you
Glad I could help! No sweat re the shim kit...I forgot about it too & obviously haven't missed it. Julie's bike is almost due the first valve check, although I doubt if any will need to be adjusted.
I'll update the original posters post-this is an old one.
Thanks for documenting this so well! Super helpful!
While performing the 48,000 mile valve check, I discovered one valve out of tolerance on the left side of the bike. Data from the prior two checks indicated the valve was moving tighter at a rate of 0.01/mm per 16,000 miles...and yes, it had moved out of spec by the time the 48,000 mile check rolled around.
I proceeded with the adjustment of the valve(s) on the Left side of the bike. Luckily, this is the 'easy' side to adjust since you can easily get to the Cam Chain Tensioner. While I was in there, I nominalized any other Valve that was getting close to the edge of tolerance.
Attached is an overview of the Valve adjustment on the Left side of the ST1300.
EDIT 5/28/13 - Photos of the right side adjustment can be found in my picture album (https://www.st-owners.com/forums/album.php?albumid=4010). Right side is performed essentially the same as left side with exception of accessing the cam chain tensioner screw (detailed in photos).
The correct clearances are:
intake .16 +/- .03 mm (.006 +/- .001).
exhaust. .25. +/- .03 mm. (.010 +/- .001)
Great write-up and photos.
A few points that I recall from my experiences.
Never assume that the chain on the bottom sprocket hasn’t shifted while you are working. Always check the timing mark through the crankcase hole. It is possible to get a loop of chain under the sprocket down there which makes the chain at the top end too tight.
Moly oil is a 50-50 mix of moly paste (rear wheel spline stuff) and engine oil (from workshop manual)
The right hand side is just as easy - but getting at the tensioner release bolt is awkward. You don’t have to lift off anything, but make sure your socket and extension bar are taped together, and put some tape inside the socket so that the hex nut head is a tight fit - it will lift away with the socket and not fall off into the depths of the engine.
Chances are that the copper washer will stay down there though. Use a dab of stiff grease on the washer to keep it on the copper bolt when reinserting the tensioner bolt.
@okmurdog has taken excellent photos of the camshaft timing marks - the line of sight is perfect: you cannot see any of the flat top edge of the crank case. If you can see the top when you line up the timing mark, it is easy to be one tooth out. A bright flashlight casting a shadow helps. As does a small mirror.
Check that third party shims are the same diameter as Honda. The shims have to fit in a hollow on top of the valves.
I created an excel spreadsheet years back. You record your clearances and shim sizes, and it works out which shims you need and what you need to order - re-using what you already have where possible.
A few points that I recall from my experiences.
Never assume that the chain on the bottom sprocket hasn’t shifted while you are working. Always check the timing mark through the crankcase hole. It is possible to get a loop of chain under the sprocket down there which makes the chain at the top end too tight.
Moly oil is a 50-50 mix of moly paste (rear wheel spline stuff) and engine oil (from workshop manual)
The right hand side is just as easy - but getting at the tensioner release bolt is awkward. You don’t have to lift off anything, but make sure your socket and extension bar are taped together, and put some tape inside the socket so that the hex nut head is a tight fit - it will lift away with the socket and not fall off into the depths of the engine.
Chances are that the copper washer will stay down there though. Use a dab of stiff grease on the washer to keep it on the copper bolt when reinserting the tensioner bolt.
@okmurdog has taken excellent photos of the camshaft timing marks - the line of sight is perfect: you cannot see any of the flat top edge of the crank case. If you can see the top when you line up the timing mark, it is easy to be one tooth out. A bright flashlight casting a shadow helps. As does a small mirror.
Check that third party shims are the same diameter as Honda. The shims have to fit in a hollow on top of the valves.
I created an excel spreadsheet years back. You record your clearances and shim sizes, and it works out which shims you need and what you need to order - re-using what you already have where possible.