H4 Headlight bulb replacement instructions for ST1100

Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Messages
10
Location
Poulsbo, WA
I upgraded my headlight bulbs on my 2002 ST1100 yesterday. By the time I was done, I almost would rather have hit a deer due to the lower wattage bulbs than have gone through that hassle. I can be pretty handy with some mechanical stuff (see http://www.outsideconnection.com/gallant/hpv/powerAssist/powerAssist3.asp ), but for lack of explicit instructions on headlight replacement, I went as far as removing the wire spring retainer clips that hold the bulbs in place. Lost one of the screws that hold the spring, but found a decent replacement. Lots of use of a mirror, shorty screwdriver and light while working counterintuitively due to use of a mirror. My wife appeared in the garage more than once asking if everything was OK. So for anyone who's never replaced the headlight bulbs in their ST1100 and want explicit instructions, here they are:

Tools and parts needed:
- Metric allen wrenches
- Phillips screwdriver
- Two new, H4 headlight bulbs
- Shims for H4 bulbs (example: http://www.electricalconnection.com/non-electrical/h4_shim.htm )

1. The first time you replace a bulb, you'll most likely need to see the back of the bulb housing to know what to do. So, remove the main windscreen, the outer plastic panel just below the main windscreen (the one with the vent built in with "Honda" printed on it), and the plastic panel inside that. This will allow access to the back of the bulb housing.

2. Note the plug ends for the bulbs, one per bulb. Unplug them by wiggling them back and forth while pulling out, gently.

3. Peel the big round rubber boots off the back of the bulb housing. Note the labeling on them that indicates which side goes up when reinstalling.

4. Using a mirror and light as necessary, look at the back of the bulb housing and note the wire spring retaining clips that press against the back of the bulbs, holding them in place. Note the end secured by the phillips head screw. Note the other end where the wire is hooked under a flange of sheet metal, press firmly on the end hooked under the flange, and move it sideways so it pops out free. The wire clip can then hinge backwards, freeing the bulb. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT REMOVE THE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW(S) ON THE RETAINING CLIPS.

5. Pull the old bulbs out.

6. Clip the two, smaller tabs off of the new H4 bulbs, as per the instructions in the shim package.

7. Slide a shim over the bulb end of the new headlight bulb, orienting it correctly with the tab locations. This'll be obvious.

8. CAREFULLY insert the bulb and shim back into the headlight housing, using a mirror and light as necessary. BEWARE of the possiblity of the shim falling off and getting lost in the myriad of nearly inaccessible nooks and crannys back there. Position the bulb and shim so the tabs line up correctly.

9. Swivel the wire retaining spring back into place and hook the loose end under the metal flange to secure the bulb.

10. Replace the rubber boot, pushing the edges of the middle opening firmly around the bulb base.

11. Seat the plug back onto the new bulb.

12. Repeat steps 6 through 11 for the other bulb.

13. Turn the key on and test the headlights.

14. Assuming they work, reinstall the plastic panels and windshield.

Done. I'm guessing others have suggestions and/or corrections for this, so please add comments if you want.
 
Just a FWI. There are two very small prongs that protrude from the the H4 (forward) that can be bent over to hold the ring and bulb together. With practise the whole operation can be done from under the dash, or from the front, reaching up under the light assembly. I did a complete R/R on both bulbs on a friends ST1100 in a parking lot on the way home from WeSToc....... in under 10 minutes.
 
Yeah, I have only done the left one. But I just reached up under the headlight and it went pretty easy for me. Mark (AZST) says you can do it from the top, I will try that next time. 5 minutes, tops.

There are several posts on this site that discuss the process.
 
A picture is worth a thousand words. Dennis Ryan (who sadly is no longer with us) posted the following drawings on my-mc.com and I found them invaluable when doing mine for the first time. When done properly it only takes a few minutes.

A tiny strip of duct tape in a couple of places holding the adapter to the H4 bulb keeps the two pieces together and makes life much easier.
 

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Excellent! Memories of Dennis!
Thanks Reg!

The debil is in the details... and specifically STep number 9... :D

I go in from the top...

Mark
 
Forks at full lock (different side for each bulb) and in from the top was the easist for me as well. Even on my ABS, which is a little more congested, I find no reason to remove plastic.
 
I should have tried to take a picture of how that spring clip works.

Here's a write-up from someone either on My-mc.com or the ST email list of how they did it. (apologies, as I don't remember who, so am unable to give proper credit)


With the bike on the center stand, I turned the handlebars
to full lock RIGHT.

1) I used my LEFT hand, reached in, past the vanity cover and fork tubes and
accessed the boot that seals the bulb (it's a straight shot!). This is the
second hardest part about doing this - with the forefinger and middle
finger, pull the tab on the bottom of the boot firmly until it releases.

2) Then just push the retainer wire IN and UP (counter clock-wise). From
this angle, it's easy.

3) Remove old bulb.

4) Now (this can be the HARDEST part of this operation) push the retainer
wire out of the way and hope it STAYS there. Insert new bulb. This is
fairly easy (unless you're wrestling with the retainer wire too:). To
align properly to 'seat' the bulb, simply look into the front of the
headlight, and you clearly see where the 'dark' is, and move the bulb in the
direction of the 'dark' area in the center of the reflector. You will feel
it when it's right.

5) Swing retainer wire back to position, push IN and DOWN (clock-wise).

6) Replace boot. Plug it in. YOU'RE DONE. With one, that is.

Repeat the steps for the left bulb, using your RIGHT hand for that side, and
turning the handlebars full lock LEFT.
 

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The next thread should be a "First Aid" thread to show how to apply bandages to the knuckles after this is all done. A short film about finger tip puncture wounds would also be good.

I really think if I ever have to change these bulbes again, I'm going to strip off the plastic, pull the nose cowl off and take it to the workbench where I can do it all with pliers and a hammer.
 
Yeah, the first time you change the bulbs you need the patience of Job, the flexibility of an Olympic gymnast, and the mindset of a proctologist.

BTDT, have the scars to prove it.

Joseph
 
This is a great thread, lots of information! I've ordered the shims as mentioned in the thread + 2 Phillips H4 bulbs (9003) - I think that's all I need to get the upgrade completed!

Thank you all for the great pictures! I'll try to add in a few from my own exercise....maybe in a few days.

Regards,
Vishnu
 
I upgraded my headlight bulbs on my 2002 ST1100 yesterday. By the time I was done, I almost would rather have hit a deer due to the lower wattage bulbs than have gone through that hassle. I can be pretty handy with some mechanical stuff (see http://www.outsideconnection.com/gallant/hpv/powerAssist/powerAssist3.asp ), but for lack of explicit instructions on headlight replacement, I went as far as removing the wire spring retainer clips that hold the bulbs in place. Lost one of the screws that hold the spring, but found a decent replacement. Lots of use of a mirror, shorty screwdriver and light while working counterintuitively due to use of a mirror. My wife appeared in the garage more than once asking if everything was OK. So for anyone who's never replaced the headlight bulbs in their ST1100 and want explicit instructions, here they are:

Tools and parts needed:
- Metric allen wrenches
- Phillips screwdriver
- Two new, H4 headlight bulbs
- Shims for H4 bulbs (example: http://www.electricalconnection.com/non-electrical/h4_shim.htm )

1. The first time you replace a bulb, you'll most likely need to see the back of the bulb housing to know what to do. So, remove the main windscreen, the outer plastic panel just below the main windscreen (the one with the vent built in with "Honda" printed on it), and the plastic panel inside that. This will allow access to the back of the bulb housing.

2. Note the plug ends for the bulbs, one per bulb. Unplug them by wiggling them back and forth while pulling out, gently.

3. Peel the big round rubber boots off the back of the bulb housing. Note the labeling on them that indicates which side goes up when reinstalling.

4. Using a mirror and light as necessary, look at the back of the bulb housing and note the wire spring retaining clips that press against the back of the bulbs, holding them in place. Note the end secured by the phillips head screw. Note the other end where the wire is hooked under a flange of sheet metal, press firmly on the end hooked under the flange, and move it sideways so it pops out free. The wire clip can then hinge backwards, freeing the bulb. WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT REMOVE THE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW(S) ON THE RETAINING CLIPS.

5. Pull the old bulbs out.

6. Clip the two, smaller tabs off of the new H4 bulbs, as per the instructions in the shim package.

7. Slide a shim over the bulb end of the new headlight bulb, orienting it correctly with the tab locations. This'll be obvious.

8. CAREFULLY insert the bulb and shim back into the headlight housing, using a mirror and light as necessary. BEWARE of the possiblity of the shim falling off and getting lost in the myriad of nearly inaccessible nooks and crannys back there. Position the bulb and shim so the tabs line up correctly.

9. Swivel the wire retaining spring back into place and hook the loose end under the metal flange to secure the bulb.

10. Replace the rubber boot, pushing the edges of the middle opening firmly around the bulb base.

11. Seat the plug back onto the new bulb.

12. Repeat steps 6 through 11 for the other bulb.

13. Turn the key on and test the headlights.

14. Assuming they work, reinstall the plastic panels and windshield.

Done. I'm guessing others have suggestions and/or corrections for this, so please add comments if you want.

I might add one additional suggestion - If its an older motorcycle, it might also be useful to clean the headlight "cover" (the white plastic that lets the light out- or is it call lens?) They tend to get less "transparent" and a regular headlight cleaner for automobiles can be used to clean the headlight transparent plastic.

I'll try to create a thread to explain this when I attempt my H4 conversion + cleanup - thank you again for these detailed instructions!

Regards,
Vishnu
 
I might add one additional suggestion - If its an older motorcycle, it might also be useful to clean the headlight "cover" (the white plastic that lets the light out- or is it call lens?) They tend to get less "transparent" and a regular headlight cleaner for automobiles can be used to clean the headlight transparent plastic.

ST1100 has a heavy glass lens.
 
ST1100 has a heavy glass lens.

Oh ok, so is it the same cleaning process for the lens. I guess the more important question might be whether it needs cleaning....? Maybe it's not the same approach.

Would you know if the lens transparency can be improved?

Regards,
Vishnu

sent by thepaleobiker - on Tapatalk
 
Would you know if the lens transparency can be improved?
The heavy glass lense? By removing it maybe...

Possible that yours has cloudy reflectors?
Pretty rare on 1100's, but some have managed to flood their assys due excessive use of pressure-wash from just the wrong angle, or leaving them bikes suffer outside 24/7/365... the dew then causes corrosion on the reflectors...
 
The heavy glass lense? By removing it maybe...


That's my solution!!

:-D :-D

I guess I was over zealous - I had my old Yamaha headlight lens in mind, it was in need of a cleanse. Prolly the ST1100 is as clean as factory made inside. I'll take a look & maybe post it.

Regards,
Vishnu


sent by thepaleobiker - on Tapatalk
 
Unfortunately, the glass is basically not removable. Unless ST1100Y has a secret method. Have to get a whole new light assembly.
 
Unfortunately, the glass is basically not removable. Unless ST1100Y has a secret method.
Put it in the oven... if you dare with your SO swinging the hardwood rolling-pin behind... :lol:

The glass is glued into the plastic casing, heat seems the only way to soften that bond... probably at temps too hot to handle without gloves...

The reflectors made of polished aluminium have a very soft surface that scratches easily, so if one attempts a cleansing there, care is advised...
Next task is how to properly seal up the glass again... one small bubble and the assembly leaks while riding through the next downpour or hosing down your mount.
 
Why do the USA bikes need shims for the H4 bulbs? I read somewhere that changing the first bulb takes 10 mins,the second one will take an hour, doesn't matter which one you do first:)
 
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