ST1100 Swing Arm Removal

beefstano1

Hi there, New to the site and was wondering if anyone knows exactly how to remove swing arm from the 1100? I have removed pins using specialist tools for both sides but drive shaft side has an offset lug that sits in the frame and there isn't enough movement to drop the swingarm back. Do I need to remove the rear wheel and drive housing and pull the shaft through before the swing arm can be released??
 
The rear drive has to come off and then the drive shaft has to be pulled out. Once the drive shaft is out, you will then be able to get that side movement to remove the swing arm.
 
+1 The driveshaft must be pulled to the rear so that the u-joint at the other end comes off the trannie output shaft. Only then can you slide the swingarm to the left and then rearward. After the final drive is removed, grab the end of the shaft with a rag and pull. N.B. - the driveshaft will slide out and crash to the floor if you let the front of the swingarm drop beyond horizontal!

John
 
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I have the ST on the lift,I'd love to remove the swingarm and clean and rustproof it but I'm not that confident in my mechanical ability!!
 
broc11 said:
I have the ST on the lift,I'd love to remove the swingarm and clean and rustproof it but I'm not that confident in my mechanical ability!!
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Getting it all apart is the easy part, as I have found out, but maybe John O could elaborate on the technique for getting it back on - attaching the u-joint to the output shaft and getting the boot to seal easily?
 
The Honda Service Manual should really be used, although it doesn't specifically point out the above removal tip. To reinstall, in general - put the boot on, insert the driveshaft into the swingarm and hold it to the rear while fitting the SA into the frame, loosely mount the pivot bolts, push the driveshaft forward to engage the trannie shaft splines, tug the boot onto its boss on the trannie case, and torque bolts and the lockring to spec (special tool required).

John
 
Thanks John, but, having not got that far in my repair yet, I am wondering about getting that driveshaft back onto the output shaft, since the u-joint is quite floppy and won't be pointing straight ahead inside the swing arm. Can I assume I will be fiddling with that for a while to get it lined up? Is there insufficient clearance to put the u-joint onto the output slightly, while holding the SA in place, before pushing the SA into its frame sockets?
 
I needed a minor amount of fiddling to get the drive shaft reconnected.
The really, minor cuss words omitted, ugly part of the procedure was getting the boot back into place.
 
Mark said:
I needed a minor amount of fiddling to get the drive shaft reconnected.
The really, minor cuss words omitted, ugly part of the procedure was getting the boot back into place.
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Yes, I can see that will be a tight fit in there, but I have read elsewhere that a good smear of grease around the outer ring of the boot helps it slip on more easily. I'll be trying that.
 
In all the alt upgrades I've been involved with the u-joint slid home relatively easy. An angled needle nose pliers will help get the boot seated on the case's boss.
 
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I found it difficult to pull then re-install and get the boot correctly aligned.It is important to have that boot on correctly,if you don't think it is, start over till you get it right.Took a few times to get the shaft and cover in the right position in order to pull it to the rear for removal.
 
removed the drive, removed the shaft, (Had already removed the brake lines), Dropped swing arm out (which is suprisingly in VERY good condition once the dirt and road salt is removed). Twist and turn and the Alternator is out, Problem is the casing is cracking Like OJ Simpson on Date night!! And a new one is gonna cost as much as a cheap Pan off Ebay. Any Ideas?
 
beefstano1 said:
And a new one is gonna cost as much as a cheap Pan off Ebay.
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Check with local breakers but also keep monitoring eBay...

And once you got a decent unit: threat it with a good load of ACF-50 for corrosion protection... (you could already use it for the cavities of the swing-arm, and much more...)
 
Once again I must thank this site and fellow riders (know your reply are being read over and over again) you've help getting my st110 on the road again....
BTW you DO NOT NEED SPECIAL TOOL TO REMOVE SWINGARM BOLTS!!!!!
 
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