Article [13] ST1300 - fork seal replacement and sonic spring installation

From a bit of research it looks like it's spring, washer then spacer. When I assemble that way the stock spacer is too long for the cap to fit. So it's off to the HD for some pvc. I'm still not sure what the extra washers are for.
 
You can use a pipe cutter and cut down the stock spacer. A good place to start is by matching the length of the new spring and spacer to the length of the old spring and spacer. The additional washer is to be used on the top of the PVC, between the PVC and cap. If you use the PVC then you would have: spring, washer, PVC, washer, cap. If you cut down the stock steel spacer than the washer on top is not needed. You can use more washers on either end to increase your preload if you cut the spacer too short.
 
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I wanted to add something to this article. I just installed new seals this weekend and I found that a 2in, 2FT section of black ABS pipe with a 1 1/2in black ABS coupler was a perfect slide hammer and seal driving tool combo. picked them up at my local Lowes for a couple bucks.

<D>
 
Just a quick and possibly stupid question ( I'm a rather slow learner):
Is the cupler 2" wide and 1.5 long?
The fork is 45mm/1.7" in diameter....so I can't figure how a 1.5 wide cupler will fit over the fork....
What have I missed?
Stu ( might be short for stupid.....sometimes)
 
dmulk said:
I wanted to add something to this article. I just installed new seals this weekend and I found that a 2in, 2FT section of black ABS pipe with a 1 1/2in black ABS coupler was a perfect slide hammer and seal driving tool combo. picked them up at my local Lowes for a couple bucks.
Click to expand...

Having a tough time visualizing this. Would yhou have a picture of the slide hammer arrangement? Was it used with the fork out of the bike?
 
A nominal 1.5" PVC pipe has an O.D. measurement of about 1.9" or 48mm (the 1.5" dimension is I.D.). A 1.5" coupling will have an I.D. equal to that 1.9" pipe O.D. (the O.D. of the 1.5" pipe will slide inside it) so it will slide over the ST1300 top fork tube diameter and contact the fork seal. The 2 ft section of 2" nominal PVC pipe will also slide over the top fork tube and extend down where it can be used as a driver for the coupling to seat the fork seal.

So you slide the coupling down over the top tube first, then slide the 2 ft pipe over the top of it and use it as a driver. The bottom of the coupling drives the fork seal into the lower fork tube.
 
I have a STOC loaner fork seals R&R tool kit with the shop type seal drivers, but making your own out of PVC or ABS pipe is a time honored method. BTW, if the pipe ID is slightly too big you can put some longitudinal cuts in the tubing and then put on a worm-gear hose clamp to reduce the ID. BTDT until I got the big steel shop drivers (41mm and 43mm). Put a cap on the other end of the tubing and strike it with a dead-blow hammer. FWIW

John
 
John OoSTerhuis said:
I have a STOC loaner fork seals R&R tool kit with the shop type seal drivers, but making your own out of PVC or ABS pipe is a time honored method. BTW, if the pipe ID is slightly too big you can put some longitudinal cuts in the tubing and then put on a worm-gear hose clamp to reduce the ID. BTDT until I got the big steel shop drivers (41mm and 43mm). Put a cap on the other end of the tubing and strike it with a dead-blow hammer. FWIW

John
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Good info, John.

Just one more clarification (in case I wasn't clear in my first reply): The beauty about using the BLACK ABS in place of the WHITE PVC is that the 1.5in coupler needs ZERO modification. There is a ring at the center point of the coupler that is ever so slightly smaller ID than the rest of it that causes it to "center" and still "pivot" to help drive in the seal.

Pretty nice find and worth me looking weird walking through the LOWES with one of my forks in my hand to find something that would just work. =P

Alas....whoever buys my 2006ABS over the next few months won't have to do the job again for a while...so... =D

<D>
 
dmulk said:
Good info, John.

Just one more clarification (in case I wasn't clear in my first reply): The beauty about using the BLACK ABS in place of the WHITE PVC is that the 1.5in coupler needs ZERO modification. There is a ring at the center point of the coupler that is ever so slightly smaller ID than the rest of it that causes it to "center" and still "pivot" to help drive in the seal.

Pretty nice find and worth me looking weird walking through the LOWES with one of my forks in my hand to find something that would just work. =P

Alas....whoever buys my 2006ABS over the next few months won't have to do the job again for a while...so... =D

<D>
Click to expand...

Dan, you should have called me, I have the seal driver for the ST works on Valkyries too.
 
Most of the comments I have seen on the forum are about the fork been to soft beside other things.
In my case, it's the opposite, my fork is hard as a rock (ST1300 - 2005).
I have done the maintenance by the book twice, 5W, new guides, factory springs (I guess) and I weight 157 lb.
Will the Sonic springs be an upgrade in this scenario?
I am also thinking of reducing the amount of oil, will that make the fork softer or more reactive or is it simply said a "bad idea"?
 
Sidekick said:
Most of the comments I have seen on the forum are about the fork been to soft beside other things.
In my case, it's the opposite, my fork is hard as a rock (ST1300 - 2005).
I have done the maintenance by the book twice, 5W, new guides, factory springs (I guess) and I weight 157 lb.
Will the Sonic springs be an upgrade in this scenario?
I am also thinking of reducing the amount of oil, will that make the fork softer or more reactive or is it simply said a "bad idea"?
Click to expand...

I was in the same situation you are with my front suspension not reacting very much, very sluggish. I'm a similar weight at 170lbs.
Dave (Dduelin) helped me with my fork sag. He gave me his set up as we're similar weights also. I ended up increasing the preload a bit, changing to 5W oil and now my suspension has more movement like it should.
I haven't learned how to "link" someone's name here yet so it alerts them, but you might want to search his name and send him a message.
Then of course post the results on here so we can all learn from it.

Just wanted to add that you can increase the function of the OEM springs to be better with more preload, lowering the weight of the fluid and making sure the bushings are good, but ultimately changing to Racetech or Sonic springs and valves is the best option.

Good luck
 
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Kevcules said:
I haven't learned how to "link" someone's name here yet so it alerts them, ......
Click to expand...
kevin;
Just type an ampersand (@) immediately followed by the beginning of the person's screen name with no space between the two. Their screen name will show up in a drop-down list. Just select their screen name.
 
I just finished rebuilding ThunderSTrucks 2012 forks. Since BlueSTars 2004 forks worked out well,, I just used the same formula. Reconditioned tubes, new seals and guides,,, fully cleaned and 5 weight fluid, c/w a 5/8" preload spacer. Both sets seem seem to feel and perform the same. I am happy.

Over the winter,,, I came into a good used SuperBrace, and I have tried it on both bikes now. I have not noticed any difference in handling, with it installed or not. But,,, on ThunderSTruck,,, I did notice that having in on,,, reduced the fluid seeping on the left side fork. So, that indicates that it improved the alignment on those worn forks,, prior to rebuild.

I have not got my spare rear shock back from my suspension service guy yet. It is waiting arrival of a new 21kg Race Tech spring. I am going to need longer legs !! cheers, CAt'
 
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