https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...9pVWl4SM2TC55u8RJxR_dqQpn58B65BXn4aAomD8P8HAQ use this tool all the time. Tap threads in easily, put the steel insert in, expand the top with the tool, blow out the hole, start engine for a few seconds with the plug out to blast out a few shavings and presto....its done. half hour at max
Blown plug hole!
- Thread starter dkruitz
- Start date
I was wondering if something like that was possible, having never tried it before. I was thinking since its aluminum shavings anyway, even if a few can't be blown out of the cylinder its probably not going to do any real damage, but I wasn't sure if tapping in place was a viable option. Thanks for the info.
+1!.........BTDT with other applications. What few powdery shavings drop in cyl. is NOT an issue as they will just get blown out exhaust on start-up
.I, years ago, heard from some old timers. (even older than me) that to clean excessive carbon from an engine they would pour rice down the intake. A kind of media blasting action. It all got blown out the exhaust. the great part about this tool is that there is no drilling necessary.+1!.........BTDT with other applications. What few powdery shavings drop in cyl. is NOT an issue as they will just get blown out exhaust on start-up
OP
OP
To the queries above, yes I did pull the head. I had no idea what went down inside the cylinder, and would YOU want metal shavings inside your cylinder? Better safe than sorry IMHO.
Plus this gives me the chance to change the timing belt I planned on changing next year, and to change out the carb intake rubbers which I had on hand. Pulling the head at that point is not much more work - about 12 more bolts is all.
Plus this gives me the chance to change the timing belt I planned on changing next year, and to change out the carb intake rubbers which I had on hand. Pulling the head at that point is not much more work - about 12 more bolts is all.
How much shavings did you find in the engine ?? Ill bet nun. Ford 4.6 v8 are notorious for this. I have done this repair many times with no problems. Carbon can do more damage. Now if you found a small line or two going vertically in the cylinder wall, are you now going to replace the engine. Now there is visible damage. The answer is no. An engine is not as delicate as some people think.
Yeah, I would have pulled the head as well, for the reasons stated.
OP
OP
I did see some minor debris in there, but I'm unsure if it was from the head removal or from the stripped hole. Keep in mind the hole would have to be drilled and tapped which would create more shavings. Considering I've got a timing belt replacement in the near future and carb boots to replace, it's not that big of a deal to pull the head.
OP
OP
The head was pulled on Sunday as mentioned previously.
Still use the timesert, just easier with the head off. Used to use them on racing engine with ultra high compression's. Upside: If properly installed, you will never blow that plug out again. I honestly don't understand why manufacturers don't do this at the factory. (I do really, $$$$)
Side note: Re: trident engines. I started using the Help! kit on those, fast, easy and about 40 bucks a hole, Just note the new sparkplug number for reference. Haven't had one fail yet. Did have to buy the Lisle extractor kit for the ones where the plug seizes in the hole-I believe that is the newer trident motor though. Bought a church bus for 500 bucks with 4 blown plugs, dealer quoted them huge $$ for repair, no-one around here knew how to repair. couple hundred in the help kits, sold the bus a week later for 5 grand.
I've seen these, installation would be easier than timesert(no extra special tools-hence the cost of the timesert kit) I'd like to try them. My preference on the timesert is the shoulder-No way to insert them too deep, and the locking system, no hammering, just run the insert tool all the way in, which swell the insert to the correct size(they are manufactured with a taper to enable this.) If I ever have to buy one for the ST, I'll list it in the loaner tools section.
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Jonb
Red Arr00w
If it comes to it, I have a set of heads with about 60k on them ready to go. PM me for details.
Well, its probably not a good idea to have any shavings down there, but I too think they would be blown out the exhaust port (or out the spark plug hole when you turn it over a few times as suggested). However, since the cylinder bore is aluminum, and the shaving is also Al, then were it to get caught alongside the piston, it could score the bore.
I've always seen steel cylinder inserts in aluminum block engines, and steel rings, doesn't the ST have a steel cylinder bore?
wjbertrand
Ventura Highway
The 1100 has steel liners but the 13 has hard chromed or nicasil hard coating on the bores.
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The nicasil coating is much harder than aluminum, so I would assume aluminum slivers wouldn't cause any damage, or could it?? But this discussion in for an 1100, so it has steel liners anyway.
wjbertrand
Ventura Highway
Yeah, I was leery of the Nicasil approach at first because once damaged you have to replace the cylinder but time seems to have proven the approach quite durable.
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I couldn't remember exactly where/when I first heard of nikasil cylinder plating, I thought Honda had started using it in the early '90s on some sportbikes, but wasn't sure. And I seem to remember hearing some dirtbikes using it around that same time, or even earlier. So I googled it and found this interesting piece of info.
"Nikasil was very popular in the 1990s. It was used by companies such as BMW, Ducati, Jaguar and Moto Guzzi in their new engine families. However, the sulfur found in much of the world's low-quality gasoline caused some Nikasil cylinders to break down over time, causing costly engine failures."