Need Help With Hardwiring GPS To 1100

Loki WRX YZF

Loki WRX YZF

Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Messages
97
Location
Northeast Illinois
Bike
1994 ST1100
STOC #
8977
I know this topic has been discussed, but all of the threads I've found are relating to the 1300. Fearing that there may be a difference between, I though I would ask for clarity.

My goal is to tap into the power supply so that when I turn on the ignition, it powers the GPS and conversely cuts power when the ignition is turned off. My plan was to tap into a wire leading to the turn signal, but I was sure which wires to use.

If anyone has any advice or better solutions, please share.


Thanks!
 
I wouldn't use the turn signal as a source. My first thought would be to add a fuse block (I like the Blue Sea Marine Grade myself). The fuse block gives you a good, clean source of power if you need more later. If not , there's a 'switchable' connection on the right side of the battery tucked in behind the fuse block (it may not be there on early models before 96).
 
A simple way to add additional circuits is to use the Fuzeblocks FZ-1 which has both power and ground busses combined with a relay in one small package. Connect the FZ-1 directly to the battery using 12ga wires and use a ignition switched wire from the fuse box next to the battery to trigger the FZ-1. This fuse block has 6 circuits which can be switched or unswitched. In your case you could choose the 10A Turn Signal/Front & Rear Brake circuit (Wht/Grn?) wire as the trigger wire.

You might also need to add a 12V/5V converter to power the GPS. SMSW points out below that I need to add a fuse ahead of my FZ-1.
 
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Twelve ga wire is good for 25 amps and should be fused somewhere in the run from the battery to the new FZ-1 auxiliary fusebox. This prevents a short in the fusebox itself from overheating the wire from the battery and damaging other wires/insulation/the bike itself. The fuse ideally should be as close to the battery as possible.

There was another thread in which the PO left live wires connected directly to the battery, they shorted out and caused damage to the wiring harness when they overheated.
 
mcthorogood said:
A simple way to add additional circuits is to use the Fuzeblocks FZ-1 which has both power and ground busses combined with a relay in one small package. Connect the FZ-1 directly to the battery using 12ga wires and use a ignition switched wire from the fuse box next to the battery to trigger the FZ-1. This fuse block has 6 circuits which can be switched or unswitched. In your case you could choose the 10A Turn Signal/Front & Rear Brake circuit (Wht/Grn?) wire as the trigger wire.
Click to expand...

Thanks, mcthorogood. I appreciate the offering of two options. Since I don't currently have the finances to purchase the FZ-1, nor the current need (no pun intended) as I won't be adding anything beyond the GPS, I'll likely tap into the white and green wires you mentioned.


SMSW said:
Twelve ga wire is good for 25 amps and should be fused somewhere in the run from the battery to the new FZ-1 auxiliary fusebox. This prevents a short in the fusebox itself from overheating the wire from the battery and damaging other wires/insulation/the bike itself. The fuse ideally should be as close to the battery as possible.

There was another thread in which the PO left live wires connected directly to the battery, they shorted out and caused damage to the wiring harness when they overheated.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, SMSW. I'll keep this in mind should I go the route of the FZ-1.
 
There are 2 places on the back of the fuse block that can be used for power. A crimped on spade lug will plug into the back side. Don't remember if it is male or female lug. The power will be switched on and off with the key. It will NOT be fused. I wouldn't use it for more than 10-15 amps. I used it to turn on a relay that powered my auxiliary fuse block.
 
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Ron said:
There are 2 places on the back of the fuse block that can be used for power. A crimped on spade lug will plug into the back side. Don't remember if it is male or female lug. The power will be switched on and off with the key. It will NOT be fused. I wouldn't use it for more than 10-15 amps. I used it to turn on a relay that powered my auxiliary fuse block.
Click to expand...


Thanks, Ron! The GPS only draws about .67 amps at the worst, so I don't think I'll have any concerns with that option beyond reaching the fuse block and then determining which wire is which. When it comes to the electrical systems, I get easily intimidated with anything beyond the positive and negative leads to the battery....
:shrug2:​
 
Ron said:
There are 2 places on the back of the fuse block that can be used for power. A crimped on spade lug will plug into the back side. Don't remember if it is male or female lug. The power will be switched on and off with the key. It will NOT be fused. I wouldn't use it for more than 10-15 amps. I used it to turn on a relay that powered my auxiliary fuse block.
Click to expand...

+1 Crimp a common uninsulated spade connector on one lead of an inline water resistant fuse holder and plug it into the slot on the back side of the early model ST1100 fuse box. You are connecting to the main buss bar that is switched/powered with the ignition. The fuse holder may fit on top of the fuse box, or extend the lead and put the holder wherever you want. Extend the other lead and connect it to your GPS. Ground to a ground point of your choice.

I’ve got a picture of the switched source somewhere in my archives if it isn’t clear. Probably also an article in the AOW for the source and installing an aux fuseblock. I used the source to trigger my 6 circuit aux fuseblock through a relay. [edit: 20 years ago, still working fine]

John
 
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Loki WRX YZF said:
The GPS only draws about .67 amps at the worst
Click to expand...

+1. A fuse block and 12ga wire are way overkill for a GPS. Not that there's anything wrong with futureproofing but if the farkle bug bites and infects Loki a fuse block and appropriately heavy wire can easily be retroed.
 
You can buy a relay and fuse block at pretty much any auto parts store for just a few dollars. Mount it under the seat or some other waterproof place, connect it to the main fuse box per John O's instructions above, and you'll have power for anything you want to add. If you're adding a lot of farkels up front, you can also make a grounding "spider" and mount that up front with a single wire running back to the battery. Saves running lots of ground wires.

If you are using a gps without an internal battery, you might want to consider whether you want that on a switched power supply or not. At times it's nice to consult or program the gps without having to have the bike turned on.
 
ST Gui said:
+1. A fuse block and 12ga wire are way overkill for a GPS. Not that there's anything wrong with futureproofing but if the farkle bug bites and infects Loki a fuse block and appropriately heavy wire can easily be retroed.
Click to expand...

That's how I see it, too.


Don-STOC237 said:
You can buy a relay and fuse block at pretty much any auto parts store for just a few dollars. Mount it under the seat or some other waterproof place, connect it to the main fuse box per John O's instructions above, and you'll have power for anything you want to add. If you're adding a lot of farkels up front, you can also make a grounding "spider" and mount that up front with a single wire running back to the battery. Saves running lots of ground wires.
Click to expand...

I'll definitely keep this in mind.

Don-STOC237 said:
If you are using a gps without an internal battery, you might want to consider whether you want that on a switched power supply or not. At times it's nice to consult or program the gps without having to have the bike turned on.
Click to expand...

It's a TomTom Rider 400, which does have an internal battery. It has a dock that allows me to easily remove it for security and updating, although I can also update it via WiFi, so I don't always have to remove it from the dock. Considering this, would you advise against having it on a switched power supply?
 
Be careful !! What voltage does your GPS run on ??? Not many newer GPS's run on +12 volts directly. The voltage converter does, but not the GPS - so don't wire the GPS directly to +12 volts.

You can by a 3 Amp DC to DC converter ( cheap ) off Amazon or EBay to power your GPS if it doesn't run directly on +12 volts.

My old Garmin 2720 does run off +12 volts directly, but not the newer Garmin's. Many run off +5 volts. But I do have a +12 volt to 6 volt DC to DC converter to power my Roady2 XM radio. The converters are available in different voltages.

See: +12 volt to + 5 volt DC to DC Converter

See: +12 volt to +6 volt DC to DC Converter
 
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Jim Van said:
Be careful !! What voltage does your GPS run on ??? Not many newer GPS's run on +12 volts directly. The voltage converter does, but not the GPS - so don't wire the GPS directly to +12 volts.

You can by a 3 Amp DC to DC converter ( cheap ) off Amazon or EBay to power your GPS if it doesn't run directly on +12 volts.

My old Garmin 2720 does run off +12 volts directly, but not the newer Garmin's. Many run off +5 volts. But I do have a +12 volt to 6 volt DC to DC converter to power my Roady2 XM radio. The converters are available in different voltages.

See: +12 volt to + 5 volt DC to DC Converter

See: +12 volt to +6 volt DC to DC Converter
Click to expand...

Thanks, Jim Van. My quick research revealed that the voltage at the docks two pins should be between 5V to 12V, and that the battery voltage is 12V - 14V
 
Loki WRX YZF said:
That's how I see it, too.




I'll definitely keep this in mind.



It's a TomTom Rider 400, which does have an internal battery. It has a dock that allows me to easily remove it for security and updating, although I can also update it via WiFi, so I don't always have to remove it from the dock. Considering this, would you advise against having it on a switched power supply?
Click to expand...

If it has an internal battery, I'd put it on a switched power supply.
 
Loki WRX YZF said:
Thanks, Jim Van. My quick research revealed that the voltage at the docks two pins should be between 5V to 12V, and that the battery voltage is 12V - 14V
Click to expand...

I did a little research on the internet. It looks to me like there is a +12 volt to +5 volt converter inside the dock. So the GPS actually runs off +5 volts. This jives with +5 volts out of a USB charger too, that the 400 can run off of.
 
There are plenty of inexpensive adapters that plug into a cigar lighter socket and convert 12 v to 5v with a female USB socket.
So you could just wire a cigar lighter socket that is switchable and have it to use for other stuff as needed.
If you do, I highly recommend the Marinco line (marine grade) that have weather covers built in.
 
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