CTX, nuff said. Ride and enjoy.
Upt'North.
Upt'North.
No idea on the alternator - how would I check to find out?You have a 95 ST1100, does it have the alternator upgrade to 40A? you mention not too mechanically inclined...I would go for the CTX or step up to the ST1300. With the current trend in prices for used bikes you can find an excellent ST1300 for a good price.
That's a really cool site - thanks for including it.huge difference in mpg's... 30 vs. 43 for the ctx http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/honda/st1300
How do you know if you need a new rear shock? Also, is that something I could do? I just watched a video on YouTube of a guy removing his swing arm and I can tell ya, that ain't me...too many screws to lose!Several things to check for the wobble: suspension settings, wheel bearings, steering stem bearings, tire pressures/condition.
New rear shock made a HUGE difference on my ST. Their engines are about as close to bulletproof as any made.
And you have all of us ST-OWNERS to help you out!
Remove the left pannier, remove the seat, remove the left side panel. Beside the battery on the aluminum part of the frame if there is a black rectangle box with a white connector with 6 wires coming out of it, that's the voltage regulator for the 28 amp unit. If it isn't there you more than likely had the upgrade. The other way to check is the alternator itself. use a flashlight and shine it on the left side of the bike by the swingarm The alternator is located at the back of the engine. if there are no venting on the alternator it's the 28 amp unit.No idea on the alternator - how would I check to find out?
+1 Kiltman on the rear shock. But you WILL need a torque wrench and moly grease/paste.How do you know if you need a new rear shock? Also, is that something I could do? I just watched a video on YouTube of a guy removing his swing arm and I can tell ya, that ain't me...too many screws to lose!
Don't know about the Valk, but the CTX does not have that adjustment. Both STs do have that. The CTX is as simple as gripping the barrel of the shock and turning it to another number.Is that the "dampening force adjustment" that's on the side of the bike, just under the seat? You put a screw driver in and turn to the left for "softer"?
(gulp)Remove the left pannier, remove the seat, remove the left side panel. Beside the battery on the aluminum part of the frame if there is a black rectangle box with a white connector with 6 wires coming out of it, that's the voltage regulator for the 28 amp unit. If it isn't there you more than likely had the upgrade. The other way to check is the alternator itself. use a flashlight and shine it on the left side of the bike by the swingarm The alternator is located at the back of the engine. if there are no venting on the alternator it's the 28 amp unit.
The shock isn't all that difficult to change. Put the bike on the centre stand. put a block under the rear wheel. remove the top bolt attached to the frame mindful of the bushing and spacers. Then remove the bottom bolt. an extra long 14mm c wrench or box wrench will be helpful to remove that bolt. Again mindful of the bushing and spacer. Install in reverse order, use a pry bar under the rear wheel so you can alin the eye of the shock into the frame bracket.
The 28a unit looks like a solid bell-shaped dome, and the 40a has slots all over like a car alternator.No idea on the alternator - how would I check to find out?