How do i treat my black plastic?

I use a product called Black Jack. It is made to revive automotive plastics. It's a clear, thick substance and works great.
 
I tried a mixture of paint thinner and boiled linseed oil. It takes very little. Put it on, leave it for a few minutes and then wipe down with a dry cloth. It has lasted longer than all the "plastic restorers" I have tried.
 
Wipe New Trim Restorer.

I did my ST1300 black plastic about 3 years before I sold it and it still looked great.
 
drrod said:
boiled linseed oil
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I too had good results with this, used straight. I did not mix it with paint thinner. One of the lower cowls in the photo below had just been treated, the other had not. Can you tell which is which?

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BUT you need to be aware that until fully dried (it takes a few days) BLO is prone to spontaneous combustion. If you elect to use it, be sure to keep whatever it is you use to apply the stuff in an open, well-ventilated area and away from anything else flammable.

If you apply it with cloths / rags, spread the rags to dry for several days in a cool place out of direct sunlight- don't fold/wad them up and stuff them in a drawer or out-of-the-way corner or old coffee can. And keep them on some sort of fireproof substrate (pavement, foil baking pan, etc.) and away from anything flammable nearby.

There was a thread a while back where it was suggested that treating the lower cowls with BLO increased the risk of a bike fire since the cowls are near the hot exhaust system. You will have to evaluate for yourself what you think that risk is, and whether you want to take it.
 
ibike2havefun said:
There was a thread a while back where it was suggested that treating the lower cowls with BLO increased the risk of a bike fire since the cowls are near the hot exhaust system. You will have to evaluate for yourself what you think that risk is, and whether you want to take it.
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There is no more danger because you treat the plastic with a bit of linseed oil of fire than there was before you did the treatment. The ignition temp of most solid materials is surprisingly high, and this plastic's melting/warping point is much lower than most of them. It never sees high temps. Consider this - many high end firearms' stocks were finished with many many coats of linseed oil over weeks to build up a thick, durable, beautiful finish. How many of them combust when you shoot the shotgun, rifle, whatever?
 
years ago someone on the old forum recommended plain old olive oil like you use for cooking, so I've been using that for about 20 years now. You need to re-apply it periodically depending on how much your bike sits in the sun.
 
I just use the Honda spray on cleaner / polish. It does a great job on all of the gray bits on the ST.


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When I see it on sale I buy a few cans and stock up. The one issue I have is that when stored in a cold garage early spring / late fall it is as if the can has lost all pressure before the product inside is used up. Solved this by keeping the can indoors and bringing out just before using it.
 
ReSTored said:
I just use the Honda spray on cleaner / polish. It does a great job on all of the gray bits on the ST.


View attachment 263767

When I see it on sale I buy a few cans and stock up. The one issue I have is that when stored in a cold garage early spring / late fall it is as if the can has lost all pressure before the product inside is used up. Solved this by keeping the can indoors and bringing out just before using it.
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That's what I use on my face shield.
 
drtyrrel said:
ReSTored said:
I just use the Honda spray on cleaner / polish. It does a great job on all of the gray bits on the ST.


View attachment 263767

When I see it on sale I buy a few cans and stock up. The one issue I have is that when stored in a cold garage early spring / late fall it is as if the can has lost all pressure before the product inside is used up. Solved this by keeping the can indoors and bringing out just before using it.
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That's what I use on my face shield.
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So, it makes the black stuff blacker and the clear stuff clearer?

"How do it know?!" o_O
 
From this discussion, it sounds like any old oil will do the trick. Olive, linseed, anyone for Rotella? You clever guys...you turned this into an oil thread! How about moly? Getting the stuff off your hands is a trial, and the color is right.
 
dwalby said:
years ago someone on the old forum recommended plain old olive oil like you use for cooking, so I've been using that for about 20 years now. You need to re-apply it periodically depending on how much your bike sits in the sun.
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I did this once. It worked well, but attracted a lot of dirt/dust.
 
I have tried most things discussed here but have found that a product call Stoners (not STOwners) Trim shine works the best. They make both an aerosol and pump spray bottle. Get the aerosol product as it is a different formula that works much better. I also use it on my car and truck plastic cladding - I'm very happy with it.
 
paulcb said:
I did this once. It worked well, but attracted a lot of dirt/dust.
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Probably lettuce and cucumbers, too. Linseed oil dries hard*, so it does not remain sticky; olive and other vegetable oils do not harden.
*actually, I believe linseed oil oxidizes and polymerizes though I'm not sure. Any chemists in the audience?
 
I use an STP product called 'Son of a Gun' protectant. Bought a gallon of the stuff 15 years ago and still have some left. I usually have to do it every 2nd year. Works well and doesn't seem to attract dust. Cheers, Ed
 
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