2008 Honda St1300 Dies on Idle , runs Fine

Andrew Shadow said:
These two statements don't seem to square with one another.
If the idle speed adjustment cable is all one solid piece that rotates as one solid mass, i.e., there is no part of it that is capable of moving independently relative to any other part of it, what moves in and out against what, and what is it unlocking and locking?
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I don't know the answer to that question.

When I had the motorcycle apart (when the pictures above were taken), I ordered a new idle adjustment cable from Honda because I thought the old one was defective precisely because it appeared to be a single monolithic part. The new one arrived, sealed in the Honda bag... and it was a single monolithic part. The only part in the whole mechanism that moves independent of the rest of the cable assembly is the white plastic collar.

I installed the new cable very carefully, following the service manual instructions for routing, and found that it fouled (rubbed) against some of the metal parts of the throttle body assembly. I lubricated the outside of the cable at those points with silicone lube, that somewhat improved the situation but didn't entirely eliminate the problem. After a bit more experimentation, I found that if I removed the cable from its U-shaped retaining hook at the knob end, that relieved tension on the cable and made it easier to adjust.

Michael
 
CYYJ said:
The new one arrived, sealed in the Honda bag... and it was a single monolithic part.
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I believed this to be the case, that it is all one solid piece that rotates together as one solid piece, but I thought that maybe I was missing something.
That being the case, that would indicate that there is nothing that unlocks, and therefore nothing that locks. Nor should it matter if the cable is rotated by applying force to the knob or to the screw-driver receptacle, as everything rotates together. The exception being that using the knob invites the potential of breakage of the knob due to aged, hardened and brittle plastic.
 
The adjuster is called the "throttle stop screw", and the service manual instructs to you adjust it as a screw, with a driver.
As Andrew pointed out, since its a one piece unit, the "knob" is only there to identify the screw, and if you try and twist or turn it with your hand, the knob often will crack and break off.
Michael pointed out several good points in the correct routing of the cable. I've found cables fouled after people removed the throttle bodies, installed cruise controls, and other assorted service stuff, etc.
Michael found you could take the bind off the cable by lifting it up from its hanger point, then putting it back.
I found it much easier to push the knob inward (with a driver) then adjust it, then pull the knob back outward. You'll see it moves easily doing this.
I should not have used the words "lock" and "unlock" in my post, as the pushing and pulling probably just clears any fouling of the cable due to the rusted cable twisting up against something as it was adjusted.
Sorry for the confusion.
 

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Mine idles about 1100 RPM, I tried to move the screw years ago and it felt seized, so I said to myself, knowing my luck, if I touch it, I'll break it.
So I'm stuck with it idling anywhere from 1000-1200, feels good when it's at 1100, so I left it alone.
Here a pic showing the direction for increase/decrease.
image.png
 
Igofar said:
Michael found you could take the bind off the cable by lifting it up from its hanger point, then putting it back.
I found it much easier to push the knob inward (with a driver) then adjust it, then pull the knob back outward. You'll see it moves easily doing this.
Click to expand...
NOW I understand what Larry has been saying all along. :D When Larry pushes the knob inwards with the screwdriver, he relieves pressure on the cable. That's exactly what happens when I remove the cable from the U-shaped holder... except it's simpler and easier to do what Larry suggests, which is to push inwards with the screwdriver. The U-shaped holder is fairly long and quite flexible, pushing in on the cable with the screwdriver will not damage or deform the U-shaped holder.

Michael
 
Al Gully said:
Mine idles about 1100 RPM, I tried to move the screw years ago and it felt seized, so I said to myself, knowing my luck, if I touch it, I'll break it.
So I'm stuck with it idling anywhere from 1000-1200, feels good when it's at 1100, so I left it alone.
Click to expand...
Hi Al:

The 1100 RPM idle is probably a blessing in disguise, because it spins the alternator faster and will help a lot with electrical demand if you have heated grips, heated seats, etc. (not that you would ever need any of that cold weather stuff in Vancouver... :biggrin:)

Michael
 
Igofar said:
Michael found you could take the bind off the cable by lifting it up from its hanger point, then putting it back.
I found it much easier to push the knob inward (with a driver) then adjust it, then pull the knob back outward. You'll see it moves easily doing this.
I should not have used the words "lock" and "unlock" in my post, as the pushing and pulling probably just clears any fouling of the cable due to the rusted cable twisting up against something as it was adjusted.
Sorry for the confusion.
Click to expand...
Now that makes a lot more sense!
I have seen reference to this locking feature several times over the past couple of years, and for the life of me I could not figure out what was locking where or how to unlock it.
I was beginning to think that I was loosing my mind as I couldn't figure out such a simple thing.
 
Hi All,

So I looked at the 5 way T and all was clear, checked the pipes as well no issues there.
The issues for some reason did stop.

All other things that was mentioned to check is fine.

New issues -
Backfire , while driving and or slowing down ( when bike is warm )
When cold and you start it up seems like its flooding when trying to give it revs.

May this be signs of a bad FPR ?
 
So it wasnt the idle adjustment? :rofl1: I strongly suggest you contact @Igofar on the white courtesy phone (wcp). he is very experienced and will help you resolve this problem and probably some that are lurking in the shadows. ride far and ride safe. dan
 
If TPS thinks your throttle is more open than it is, you will be rich, which will make it gutless on the low end, although it should start well when cold. You might pull a plug to see if they're fouling. A front plug would be best.

A leak in the intake system could cause that, as well. On a carbureted bike, you would likely also get hang idle. Not sure on FI bike. Use a piece of 1/4" rubber hose as a stethoscope and see if you can hear the hiss of air anyplace under the tank.
 
At high mileage on mine I found the intake boots were starting to get brittle and leak. I found the leaks with some carefully sprayed brake cleaner and when it finds the leak the engine will respond.
 
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