Thanks, but I don't think that's gonna' work ;-(
The throttle adjustment cable is not a cable in the sense of a cable within a sheath. It is just a flexible tube that links the adjustment knob with the adjuster screw at the throttle body. If I remember correctly it is rubber coated. Usually what happens is the tube sticks to the rubber mat underneath the throttle bodies and gives you the impression that it seized when it's just stuck. You can try squirting some silicone into the cavity. I have also found that if you remove the adjustment knob from the spring clip that holds it, you can straighten that cable out and then the adjuster should work fine. If, after that it still doesn't want to turn then the problem will be the adjustment screw at the throttle bodies which will necessitate taking it apart to the throttle bodies to free it up. you probably wouldn't have to remove the throttle bodies but you will have to get to them, which means removing the tank and the air breather.
Im sure you have seen these flexible socket extentions. This is the same design as the idle adjustment cable. The cable, however is coated in rubber. Under the throttle bodies is a rubber mat, as well as a bunch of rubber hoses. As the cable is routed through this myriad of rubber obstacles, it rubs and sticks to said obstacles. When the adjustment knob is in the holder (which can be temporarily removed) the cable is twisted and winding through the maze, making it more apt to binding. If you remove the adjustment knob from the holder, it will usually straighten the cable some, giving it the most freedom to turn. Sometimes, if you blindly spray a bit of WD in the abyss where the cable is going, it will help as well. If after all of this, you still cant turn the knob, there is a chance that the adjuster is seized at the throttle bodies. In this case, you will have to remove the airbox, at which point you will have access to the adjustment screw. As @Kevcules pointed out, you will be able to service it without having to remove the throttle bodies. Hope this helps
hard to believe the guy wants to get $40 for this used part...maybe, I'm in dreamlandHere's one on eBay with 11 photos of it off the bike, showing different angles
2005 03-09 HONDA ST1300 IDLE CONTROL KNOB ADJUSTER UNIT OEM TESTED | eBay
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Used to set base or minimum idle speed, after that the computer takes care of idle speed based on sensor inputs.
Opening the throttles takes the force of the throttle return springs out of the equation, meaning that less force is needed to turn the adjuster because it is no longer pushing against the force of the return spring pressure.
Not trying to be disputatious, but I think I've actually sussed out how it works...I'm sure it's more accurately described elsewhere. (I made two little videos, but I see that *.mp4 is not allowed -- what is the right video format?). Anyhow, the wax assembly is heated up by the coolant. As it warms up, I imagine an internal spring retracts the little pistons in the idle circuit, uncovering ports on the top of the throttle body (like a choke). The idle adjustment screw is on the other side of that lever and makes small adjustments to how far those ports open. Here's a photo with the wd40 nozzle on top of the idle adjustment screw. The wax assembly pushrod is below it in the photo. At the bottom, I drew a little arrow pointing out the idle air ports that are progressively uncovered as the wax warms. The throttle is not connected to that circuit...I'm pretty sure about that. It seems like an old timey way to do it...kind of a transition between a choke and an idle circuit fully controlled by the ECMRead the post by CYYJ half way down the page. Fairly common issue.
Idle speed | ST1300 Related
My 2002 new-to-me st1300 idles at about 1300 when warm. Seems high to me. Is this normal?www.st-owners.com
If you have to remove the fuel tank and air box to go see why your cable won't turn, you will understand how turning the throttle a little first, takes pressure off the cable and it can be turned easier.
Good luck....
