Lets hope its not the same place they got their air bags from 
ECM FAILURE POLL AND DISCUSSION
- Thread starter Mellow
- Start date
If you look at forums for other Hondas, like the cb600 or Blackbirds, they also suffer from this issue, although, oddly enough, they state that the light comes on at 3000 RPM. They have also found no solid fix, but to replace the ECU. One claim that is interesting is that when the bike is left to sit for a while, the issue disappears for a while, but always comes back. This is not a sure thing, but it is mentioned more than a few times. Obviously, this is not scientific. It is also mentioned that a few places have claimed to be able to fix the issue with reprogramming, but all have come up empty. Although one company claims to have fixed the issue with Honda jetskis with reprogramming, but I am skeptical of that. It was mentioned before by Larry, i believe, that there are 2 ways to fix the problem with reprogramming. 1)Really fix the issue, if possible and 2) fix it so the light doesnt come on, and not fix the underlying problem. This is a very real possibility and I would be afraid of #2.
On one forum, a guy states that he cleaned the ECU terminals and applied dielectric grease to the terminals and hasnt had the issue in a couple of years. Again, that is not scientific and it was one person, so I wouldnt hold my breath. BUT, i mention this because it is literally free to try, with no downside. Side note: I have had this exact fix work on an early 2000's GM pickup when EVERYONE stated that there was no fix and a module change was necessary for an ABS pump issue. Dielectric grease in the connector fixed it. Just mentioned this to show that you just never know til you try.
As far as removing the potting material to inspect the innards of an ECU. I have twice removed potting material. Once, I boiled the component and once I steamed the part. One unit was a late 80's suspension levelling module from a GM car and the other was a Chrysler module of some sort. Potting material is epoxy resin and comes in many forms and compositions. I have heard that Honda uses some pretty durable stuff, so I hestate to say it would be a "Piece of cake" to remove it. But, if a person has one collecting dust, it may be worth a shot. Another issue with doing this is if you find and fix the issue, how do you re-pot the part, although I would think that would be the least of ones concerns.
Edit: forgot to add that the other thing I noticed in reading about this issue on other forums was that half the people stated that there seemed to be no degradation in performance when the light come on and half said there was a difference. Take from that what you will.
On one forum, a guy states that he cleaned the ECU terminals and applied dielectric grease to the terminals and hasnt had the issue in a couple of years. Again, that is not scientific and it was one person, so I wouldnt hold my breath. BUT, i mention this because it is literally free to try, with no downside. Side note: I have had this exact fix work on an early 2000's GM pickup when EVERYONE stated that there was no fix and a module change was necessary for an ABS pump issue. Dielectric grease in the connector fixed it. Just mentioned this to show that you just never know til you try.
As far as removing the potting material to inspect the innards of an ECU. I have twice removed potting material. Once, I boiled the component and once I steamed the part. One unit was a late 80's suspension levelling module from a GM car and the other was a Chrysler module of some sort. Potting material is epoxy resin and comes in many forms and compositions. I have heard that Honda uses some pretty durable stuff, so I hestate to say it would be a "Piece of cake" to remove it. But, if a person has one collecting dust, it may be worth a shot. Another issue with doing this is if you find and fix the issue, how do you re-pot the part, although I would think that would be the least of ones concerns.
Edit: forgot to add that the other thing I noticed in reading about this issue on other forums was that half the people stated that there seemed to be no degradation in performance when the light come on and half said there was a difference. Take from that what you will.
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sirbike
Site Supporter
I’ll suggest adding which grade of fuel is used.
Using regular would require more activation of the retarding feature.
I have at least noted one rider here that has used regular for a couple hundred thousand miles without problems. A larger sample may be interesting.
I switched back to premium when I noticed steady pinging in hot weather going up mountains.
Using regular would require more activation of the retarding feature.
I have at least noted one rider here that has used regular for a couple hundred thousand miles without problems. A larger sample may be interesting.
I switched back to premium when I noticed steady pinging in hot weather going up mountains.
interesting, is that programable and how?
Manual says to connect PC with Tuning + Viewing software to the unit.
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It is also possible that those who have tried to chase the fault may have traced it to a chip or module on the board. This is a dead end if the module is no longer available.
The only thing I know about electricity is that there are 3 poles: positive, negative, and neutral.
Established that I'll say suppose that there is an st owner who works for NASA, his bike has this problem and he will find among his coworkers someone who knows and want to solve it...
The problem here is that until now it has not been a person who is really qualified to get interested in this matter.
My ignorant in the matter opinion.
Established that I'll say suppose that there is an st owner who works for NASA, his bike has this problem and he will find among his coworkers someone who knows and want to solve it...
The problem here is that until now it has not been a person who is really qualified to get interested in this matter.
My ignorant in the matter opinion.
Capacitors die from age, they can even die sitting on the shelf having never been used. Typically in old electronic devices failure is usually caused by capacitors having failed.
This failure is likely caused by a degraded component value. Which perhaps could be mitigated by adding a component to the knock sensor loom.
This failure is likely caused by a degraded component value. Which perhaps could be mitigated by adding a component to the knock sensor loom.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Joe:
Unless I missed it, your initial question only covers fault code 26. Fault code 25 is the exact same knock sensor fault except for the knock sensor on the opposite side of the engine. Including both fault code 25 and 26 might get you more responses and more data than limiting it to just one of the two knock sensor fault codes.
Unless I missed it, your initial question only covers fault code 26. Fault code 25 is the exact same knock sensor fault except for the knock sensor on the opposite side of the engine. Including both fault code 25 and 26 might get you more responses and more data than limiting it to just one of the two knock sensor fault codes.
Food for thought:
www.st-owners.com
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www.st-owners.com
where is the knock sensor? | ST1300 Related
My ST13 is throwing FI code 25, left knock sensor. I am planning to check the wiring and sensor but dont know where the knock sensors are located. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks! Alan
Knock sensor connector | ST1300 Related
Hi, My 2002 build st1300 has the rather heat damaged right hand side knock sensor wire that is fairly common. I intend to replace the wire and connector - which may well be fragile and crispy- without replacing any loom. I will just source a new connector before I start. So does the connector...
Knock Sensor Issue | ST1300 Related
I have been working this problem for a while and have not corrected it. My 2005 ST started giving me a code 26 on the F1 lamp. I went to the service manual and it indicated a malfunction with the right knock sensor. I performed the first part of the diagnostic to determine if the sensor...
R/H Knock Sensor Wire Harness | ST1300 Related
Hey Guys, last summer while riding my 2003 ST 1300 the F1 light came on a few times code 26 which as I have read on here as a R/H knock sensor. This spring I took a look and found the wire to the sensor exposed and melted etc. Question is 1. can it be soldered with out affecting sensor reading...
Easily tuned with any pc computer . you connect the laptop via a cable or buy even a blue tooth dongle and send it to your phone . and monitor and adjust in real time . . , You can turn on the log ( data recorder ) and drive around . Analyze the logs and make tuning corrections based on wideband o2 sensors .you can tune for efficiency at light loads ( cruising ) and max power at throttle tip-in .
It can even self tune based on your desired air-fuel ratios .
They are small enough to fit under the seat where the stock ecu is .
I built mine from a kit about 15 years ago . If you can solder , you can build it .
It can even self tune based on your desired air-fuel ratios .
They are small enough to fit under the seat where the stock ecu is .
I built mine from a kit about 15 years ago . If you can solder , you can build it .
Watched an-in depth vid on running these on bikes. They make plug and play (mostly) units now that dont require assembly, for those that dont wish to solder and assemble. Very interesting stuff.
Here is the video link, if anyone is looking to kill a half hour
Tune Your Engine With MegaSquirt (or MicroSquirt) ECU on Your Motorcycle (or Car) - YouTube
As some have mentioned Toyota had bad ECM's in the 2005 model year due to bad solder joints on their ECM controllers. I also had that happen to several ecm boards on copier and printer boards due to those very issues. To me it seems that this reached a high pitch when the EPA did away with high lead rosin core solder in the early 2000's.
True. believe it or not they have an hour life. Mostly the electrolytic fluid/material dries up and you get a failed capacitor. Or you can get a defective one that was happening in early 2000 when several Korean brands and others were dying in less than a year due to the electrolytic formula being incorrect. I fixed a lot of electronic stuff by removing those cheap blown capacitors and replacing them with quality Japanese ones.
tnbill
Site Supporter
The mega squirt sounds like an opportunity for someone to make an adapter harness and a tune for the early 1300s and offer it on here. But thats not going to be me
The mega squirt sounds like an opportunity for someone to make an adapter harness and a tune for the early 1300s and offer it on here. But thats not going to be me
As another opportunity, would be great if Fuel Cutting could be left out of the tuning, as we were trying to achieve for a while.
ECU flashing.?? | ST1300 Related
Keep an eye out for good used ones. I have a 2004 (120,000 miles) that also had the FI-26 error. Bought one from someone parting out a 2003 model for less than $300 and it solved the problem. I think if my only option was to buy new, I would live with the problem. It's a gamble though. I...
there isThe mega squirt sounds like an opportunity for someone to make an adapter harness and a tune for the early 1300s and offer it on here. But thats not going to be me
tnbill
Site Supporter
2004 non-police, I chose both replace (because I did) and live with it (after the second one did the same as the first...); staying below 4K is working for me (I know, against the advice of some well respected members!)
1 Sep 23 update: Night before last, mistakenly exceeded the 4K rpm limit and triggered the FI light, twice. Cycled the Engine Stop switch with the clutch pulled in to reset both time, and kept riding. Just proves that the problem hasn't gone away; I'll continue to ride below the limit, plenty fast enough for me for now until I can find another inexpensive ECU. Not worth the several hundreds of dollars when the engine runs just fine (in my experience only, you do you) when the fault isn't illuminated. 20" MPGs are back up in the high 40s/low 50s at 69mph GPS / 74mph indicated on the toll road I ride regularly. Average MPG remains around 45 tank after tank.
1 Sep 23 update: Night before last, mistakenly exceeded the 4K rpm limit and triggered the FI light, twice. Cycled the Engine Stop switch with the clutch pulled in to reset both time, and kept riding. Just proves that the problem hasn't gone away; I'll continue to ride below the limit, plenty fast enough for me for now until I can find another inexpensive ECU. Not worth the several hundreds of dollars when the engine runs just fine (in my experience only, you do you) when the fault isn't illuminated. 20" MPGs are back up in the high 40s/low 50s at 69mph GPS / 74mph indicated on the toll road I ride regularly. Average MPG remains around 45 tank after tank.
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