Torque specs

RobSeathSt1100

Joined
Oct 11, 2024
Messages
6
Age
44
Location
Switzerland
Bike
Honda St1100
Hello everyone!
New to the ST1100, owned for around a month. Needs new rotors and pads. I quickly learned Honda will pull your pants down for OEM parts as they are not common anymore.
I ordered new TRW items as they are what was available here for reasons I won't go into.
My shock and dismay and need for help is because I have not found any good sources for the procedure and installation torque specs. (Wheel off/on, pads out/in, discs off/on).. No Youtube Videos/DIY's/write up's and the Honda manual I downloaded seems to completely avoid the rotors, but details everything else.
I have done the job now just using common sense, but I have no torque specs for any of these critical parts. Can anyone help please? I don't want stuff coming loose. Axle nut, pinch bolts, caliper bolts, pad pins and plugs. Rotor attach bolts, etc.. All just 'nipped up' at the moment.
Many thanks
 
Here's something you can print out and keep in your workshop.
And when it gets too greasy to read, print another one out! ;)

Article [11] - ST1100 - Torque Settings | ST1100 Articles

I don't remember where I got it, but has proven to be a great time saver for me. So I have uploaded a PDF that has all the torque values for the ST1100. In my use it is very accurate compared to the manuals. It is also nice that you can make copies and get them greasy without messing up a proper...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
ST1100Y said:
This might help


(I however do prefer having the actual hard-copy in the shed...)
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, this is the manual I found also.. Notice that in the brake section it does not cover the brake rotor replacement, unless I miss something.. Only everything else. I now feel less confident in my research ability as I did just realise my silliness, I had not realised the spanner sign with a number next to it, on the exploded views, was actually showing the torque spec. I missed the part on page 4/5 explaining that.. Doh!
 
Uncle Phil said:
Here's something you can print out and keep in your workshop.
And when it gets too greasy to read, print another one out! ;)

Article [11] - ST1100 - Torque Settings | ST1100 Articles

I don't remember where I got it, but has proven to be a great time saver for me. So I have uploaded a PDF that has all the torque values for the ST1100. In my use it is very accurate compared to the manuals. It is also nice that you can make copies and get them greasy without messing up a proper...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
Click to expand...
That is a very handy go-to indeed! Many thanks for that.
But still no rotor bolt torque spec .
It was strange because when I took mine off It had old red loctite on the threads, but the bolts were very low torque and easy to undo. Lots of research said it would be blue loctite and a nightmare to undo. Looks like last replacement they weren't sure either .
 
RobSeathSt1100 said:
That is a very handy go-to indeed! Many thanks for that.
But still no rotor bolt torque spec .
It was strange because when I took mine off It had old red loctite on the threads, but the bolts were very low torque and easy to undo. Lots of research said it would be blue loctite and a nightmare to undo. Looks like last replacement they weren't sure either .
Click to expand...
Normally, if a torque is not given, you go to the 'generic' listing that is based on bolt size and 'head' type.
Go to Page 6 - it says -
BRAKE DISC BOLT - THREAD DIAMETER 8MM TORQUE 31 FT LBS

Check the service manual just to be sure.
 
RobSeathSt1100 said:
It was strange because when I took mine off It had old red loctite on the threads, but the bolts were very low torque and easy to undo. Lots of research said it would be blue loctite and a nightmare to undo. Looks like last replacement they weren't sure either .
Click to expand...
The OEM bolts have a thread-lock wax on them (that's why the manual says [R] to replace them...)
I use the Loctite 248 on those, it's like a Blistex stick, won't drop, no mess, no unwanted oxidation, etc...
You'll find a lot of the torque numbers in the general section of the w/shop manual as well as in the pictures of the dis/assembly sections of the parts group (like rotor bolt 43Nm)
hence: happy reading ;)
 
Uncle Phil said:
Normally, if a torque is not given, you go to the 'generic' listing that is based on bolt size and 'head' type.
Go to Page 6 - it says -
BRAKE DISC BOLT - THREAD DIAMETER 8MM TORQUE 31 FT LBS

Check the service manual just to be sure.
Click to expand...
Amazing! Thank you, sir!
 
RobSeathSt1100 said:
That is a very handy go-to indeed! Many thanks for that.
But still no rotor bolt torque spec .
It was strange because when I took mine off It had old red loctite on the threads, but the bolts were very low torque and easy to undo. Lots of research said it would be blue loctite and a nightmare to undo. Looks like last replacement they weren't sure either .
Click to expand...

wasn't sure if you found the torque diagram, its attached.

regarding the loctite, I think the red is Honda's, not Loctite's. Its the equivalent of loctite blue, which is the easier one to break loose.
 

Attachments

  • Capture.JPG
    Capture.JPG
    115 KB · Views: 8
dwalby said:
wasn't sure if you found the torque diagram, its attached.

regarding the loctite, I think the red is Honda's, not Loctite's. Its the equivalent of loctite blue, which is the easier one to break loose.
Click to expand...
I'll get the hang of this Honda manual eventually. I feel quite the noob .
Again, many thanks for pointing me in the right direction. All is right in the world now.
I was super grateful those bolts broke loose so easy. Folks talked about the blue being a nightmare (friend of mine asked on st1100 elite). When I see the red (loctite experience) I was shocked. Good to know this is a Honda equivelant of blue. I have access to various loctite, any recommendations what to use?
Now I can go back over the job a re-do it properly. Ready for it's inspection and hopefully back on the road soon.
 
You will get used to using the manual. eg The brake disks / rotors are on the wheel page and apparently have nothing to do with the brakes.
The rear caliper bracket stopper bolt is on the swing arm diagram / microfiche, (also apparently nothing to do with the brakes) !
Sometimes there are mistakes in the manual. Not often, but enough to catch you out if you don't have your wits about you. More common when data is transcribed to the diagrams.
(There is a corker in thr ST1300 manual - telling you the torque of a bolt on the caliper is 69Nm when it should be 27. That is on a diagram. The value is correct everywhere else.

That is why the information regarding torque should always be double / triple checked by comparing information from :-

1. The text.
2. The start of the chapter - not relevant for the linked manual - but many manuals often summaraise the torques at the start of a chapter.
3. The diagrams (eg Front Wheel P 13-6)
4. The introduction to the manual torques are listed for specific components eg Brake disk P1-17 - See also the note numbers in the Remarks column. See Top P1-15.
5. The generic torques are listed for diffent size and style of bolts. Top of P1-15

6. The addendum section P25-1 (refers to the ST11/ST1100A (S) - I don't know what that is)

If they are different in the different locations. Ask.
If they are larger / smaller than you expected - also ask.

I use Loctite blue 248. It is a paste in a lipstick style tube. The liquid variety gets everywhere and is quite happy flowing along the underside of surfaces. I caught it once heading for the needle roller bearing for one of the caliper bracket mounting bolts (on my 1300). Thats when I stopped using the liquid.

It is worth knowing that it turns to a stringy mush if the set thread locking compound is heated up. Very hot water will help release it. But normally, that is not required. It gives to sustained pressure. (Ref bottom fork leg, lower damper securing bolt. ST1300 Thanks Larry).
 
Last edited:
jfheath said:
You will get used to using the manual. eg The brake disks / rotors are on the wheel page and apparently have nothing to do with the brakes.
The rear caliper bracket stopper bolt is on the swing arm diagram / microfiche, (also apparently nothing to do with the brakes) !
Sometimes there are mistakes in the manual. Not often, but enough to catch you out if you don't have your wits about you. More common when data is transcribed to the diagrams.
(There is a corker in thr ST1300 manual - telling you the torque of a bolt on the caliper is 69Nm when it should be 27. That is on a diagram. The value is correct everywhere else.

That is why the information regarding torque should always be double / triple checked by comparing information from :-

1. The text.
2. The start of the chapter - not relevant for the linked manual - but many manuals often summaraise the torques at the start of a chapter.
3. The diagrams (eg Front Wheel P 13-6)
4. The introduction to the manual torques are listed for specific components eg Brake disk P1-17 - See also the note numbers in the Remarks column. See Top P1-15.
5. The generic torques are listed for diffent size and style of bolts. Top of P1-15

6. The addendum section P25-1 (refers to the ST11/ST1100A (S) - I don't know what that is)

If they are different in the different locations. Ask.
If they are larger / smaller than you expected - also ask.
Click to expand...
Oh my!! Haha.. OK, good to know.
 
RobSeathSt1100 said:
When I see the red (loctite experience) I was shocked.
Click to expand...
Again, that ain't Loctite (and surely no red one) but a wax Honda applies on specific bolts requiring such...
And they switched to some green stuff now

boltbrk-disk-8x24_medium90105MV9003-01_185a.jpg
 
Just don't use Loctite 638 Green, unless you're sure. That's not a thread lock but a retaining compound, like for when a slip fit was supposed to be a press fit. Not all Loctite is a threadlocker.

Read the label... (Sorry, but I work with high school students building robots and we stock several Loctite threadlocker grades, in addition to the green retaining compound. It's not a good day when a student used green when pink was appropriate. Heat will still release it, that is if your components can handle it.)

NO! -->1728672215743.png
 
Aside - I have a Loctite 603 - which is nasty stuff. It is not a thread locker and I don't use it on the bike. It is also described as a 'retaining compound' - designed to stop cogs, gears, worms etc rotating on a polished shaft. Superb for the models - no woodruff key in N gauge. Permanent and you have to get the gear on the shaft very quickly because it goes off as soon as there is no air.
 
Last edited:
STRider said:
Sorry, but I work with high school students building robots and we stock several Loctite threadlocker grades, in addition to the green retaining compound. It's not a good day when a student used green when pink was appropriate
Click to expand...

I've seen thread locker in purple, brown, green colors, fasteners coming from suppliers like that (in automotive assembly industry). Is there a "universal" color coding based on strength? Never seen the blue/red colors, are these Loctite specific?
 
Loctite brand, blue is medium, red is high strength (more permanent). Honda orange is medium/high, dries more like a gel. Stronger than Loctite blue. Use blue for everything, you won't really go wrong..... unless it's a special application requiring the special stuff.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom