"Wax" Idle control unit.

Honda made a few changes to the 2000 and 2001 5th gen, and added the wax unit and a catalytic converter among other changes, but the 1998 and 1999 (which I currently own) have the manual "choke" lever.
I stand corrected and I guess I owned a 2000 800FI with first year of the temperature actuated automatic choke.
 
The idle speed is completely set by the starter valves and the airflow they allow. The wax unit just holds the starter valves open further when cold, and then progressively releases them until they rest on the idle stop screw. You are correct that the FI system is varying the volume of fuel injected based on a whole lot of parameters including coolant temperature, but also inlet air temperature, barometric pressure and throttle position, and also the signal coming back from the O2 sensors.
Great explanation, and as the mini T-stat starts to move, and the rod moves through the barrel, this is when it gets stuck on the edge of the hole and keeps holding the starter valves open causing the RPM’s to remain high.
No adjustments are needed, it just needs to be clean and working smoothly to work properly.
 
........ the rod moves through the barrel, this is when it gets stuck on the edge of the hole and keeps holding the starter valves open causing the RPM’s to remain high.

Either that or the Wax Assembly itself is not activated or defective.
 
If you ever opened one up, you would see it’s just a small T-stat, and has a very low probability of failure.
I have opened and tested more than most owners will ever see in their lifetime, and have never found one that had failed.
Not saying that it could not happen, I have just never seen one fail in hundreds of units I’ve handled, nor heard of one.
I even had “failed ones” that folks replaced with new units to “correct “ their issues that passed the temperature tests, and even installed in different bikes where they worked perfectly, which also points out that it was not a defective part, but things were cleaned and lubricated when the new part was installed, leading the person to believe it had failed, when it hadn’t.
 

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.......the rod moves through the barrel, this is when it gets stuck on the edge of the hole and keeps holding the starter valves open causing the RPM’s to remain high.
No adjustments are needed, it just needs to be clean and working smoothly to work properly.

So what is your troubleshooting advice when RPMs go too high for too long but all is clean, well lubricated and the rod moves very freely through the barrel as soon as the Wax Assembly activates and then RPMs go down?
 
Either that or the Wax Assembly itself is not activated or defective.
Or the wax valve mini T-stat is clogged up with black paint from the insides of the radiator pipes, which also clogs the main radiator T-stat up too.
Which as you say “is not activated” which I believe I pointed out already.
If you’re asking what I would do, I would inspect stuff and find the cause of the fail rather than throwing parts and money at the problem.
If you look at the picture, the assembly is very simple and easy to remove and inspect.
A hot water test could verify it it was opening or closing correctly.
 
Great to hear the ST T-Stat is bullet proof!

What about the Wax Assembly itself? Have you ever seen or heard of a failed one?
Look at the picture again, the wax assembly IS a mini t-stat.
And no, I have never seen one that actually failed.
I’ve had several folks hand me ones they removed and replaced thinking they were bad, only to have them pass the test, and work correctly in a different bike.
Draw your own conclusions.
 
It’s possible paint debris is causing the issues, in one, or both T-stats.
Are you currently having the high RPM issues at this time with your bike?
 

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