Strongly considering buying a very nice ST1100 …

[increasing]

If I remember correctly the ABS light should not go off until the system completes its self-check. This requires a minimum speed of six MPH to complete.

When I had a K1600, what you describe happened after, for example, washing, but if the bike was in use and just parked in the garage, I could start it the next day and the ABS lights went out the moment the engine was running and all the instruments were up.

Is there any way to "trick" the ABS warning lights... so that they light up with the ignition on and go out when the engine is running?

I don't suspect that the owner has done anything about this, but I don't know.

 

[ST1100Y]

One thing you cannot fully check until the rear wheel comes out:
condition/wear on the drive spline + bearing boss on the rear wheel... (and in some really bad cases also the ring gear of the f/drive is shot...)
Some slag during a test ride might only source on worn hub-dampers... or the above...

 

[increasing]

One thing you cannot fully check until the rear wheel comes out:
condition/wear on the drive spline + bearing boss on the rear wheel... (and in some really bad cases also the ring gear of the f/drive is shot...)
Some slag during a test ride might only source on worn hub-dampers... or the above...

The best thing would of course be to dismantle the rear wheel to see the condition but I feel it would be a bit too invasive towards the seller.

Of course I will ask relevant questions and look at the available documents, receipts, manuals etc. I have carried out various tests with the bike in the yard, checked all the lights, horn etc. I started and stopped with a cold and warm engine.

I am planning a test drive with an hour of driving time mixed driving on the motorway, country road and city so we will see what impression I am left with.

This bike has no cosmetic damage after a rollover, the others I have looked at have had silent rollovers on both sides with damage to the mirrors and fairing.

 

[dwalby]

The best thing would of course be to dismantle the rear wheel to see the condition but I feel it would be a bit too invasive towards the seller.

I suspect you didn't mean "dismantle" literally, but to examine the splines you just have to remove the rear wheel like you would for a tire change.

 

[increasing]

I suspect you didn't mean "dismantle" literally, but to examine the splines you just have to remove the rear wheel like you would for a tire change.

Yes, that's right, my English is not very good, but with a little school English and Google Translate I hope you understand what I mean

 

[Sunday Rider]

The best thing would of course be to dismantle the rear wheel to see the condition but I feel it would be a bit too invasive towards the seller.

Of course I will ask relevant questions and look at the available documents, receipts, manuals etc. I have carried out various tests with the bike in the yard, checked all the lights, horn etc. I started and stopped with a cold and warm engine.

I am planning a test drive with an hour of driving time mixed driving on the motorway, country road and city so we will see what impression I am left with.

This bike has no cosmetic damage after a rollover, the others I have looked at have had silent rollovers on both sides with damage to the mirrors and fairing.

Not sure how the seller would feel having someone take off the rear wheel for inspection, and that it would be put back correctly. If I were the seller, I would gladly do it for the "serious" buyer with cash in hand, but not sure for the tire kicker. Tough decision on the part of the seller, and agree it would be invasive.