Original brake pads for ST1100AX …

increasing

increasing

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Oslo, Norway
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ST1100AX
You on the forum here recommend original brake pads as they are thicker compared to non-original alternative brake pads. Front Brake Pad for -99 ST1100 ABS-2 Part number: 06455 MAJ G41, it looks like the brake pads are the same on the right and left front.

Is there anything special to consider when ordering … what about mounting parts, pad spring etc …

IMG_3470.jpeg
 
Nope, pretty much a 'plug and play' operation.
You do not have to remove the front wheel or the calipers to replace the brake pads.
Though I would take care and clean the pistons as good as you can before you push them back into the caliper.
I also replaced the slotted screw at the pad pins with a socket screw - much easier to take in and out. ;)
They were M10 stainless steel set screws and I think the length was 6mm.
 
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Uncle Phil said:
I found over time that slot in the screw got to be an issue if there was the least bit of road corrosion.
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Easily prevented by a slight smear of Loctite LB 8065:

loctite-lb-8065-anti-seize-schmierstoff-kupfer-stick.jpg


But I too have a bag full of those stainless plugs now... :cool:
 
increasing said:
Good advice :thumb: Do you use copper paste on the back of the brake pads against the piston?
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Its a well known, high temperature anti squeak and anti corrosion solvent...
You can have the almost solid paste in the stick above (for threads), the honey like copper lube in a squeeze tube (brake stopper bolt, brake pad retainer/pins, the stainless brake pad springs in the calipers, and last but not least the sleeves, clamps and bolts of an exhaust systems during assembly), and a copper spray applying only a thin film (like the backside of brake pads, or limit corrosion on the bolts of the exposed silencer clamps at the collector (applied at any occasion the rear wheel comes off))...
I also use a whiff of the spray on the car's rotors/drums to prevent the wheel/rim rusting solid on the centering ring... you up north might be familiar with that... ;)

Apply with care, less avoids a mess and is more effective...
 
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The ST1300, which uses a very similar design of brake caliper to the ST1100ABS, doesn't use metal grub screws at all.

Instead, they use a rubber bung 45203-MCC-006. Google search link

It is not as if the pad hanger pins are different. The ST1100A, 3 piston motorcycles used the same pad hanger pin front and rear from 1996 to 2002. The ST1300 used the identical pad hanger pin front and rear until 2006. After 2006 the front caliper on the ST1300 changed, and a hex-head hanger pin was used, but the rears continue to use the same pad pin as on the ST1100ABS. But with the rubber bung.

Just suggesting an alternative.

One tiny downside - when you drop them on the floor, you cannot hear where they have gone. But being aware of this I bought spares to go round, and it seems that doing this guarantees that you will never lose one.
 
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jfheath said:
The ST1300, which uses a very similar design of brake caliper to the ST1100ABS, doesn't use metal grub screws at all.
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Same on the rear caliper of my GF's NT700VA (front have the regular slotted screw)... only that it'll get lost... replaced it two times... now one of my stainless caps does the job...
jfheath said:
One tiny downside - when you drop them on the floor, you cannot hear where they have gone. But being aware of this I bought spares to go round, and it seems that doing this guarantees that you will never lose one.
Click to expand...
Thought the same, but my lift and shop-floor are clean, so I would have found it... must fallen off somewhere on the open roads both times...
 
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