First ride on my 1993 ST1100

SMSW said:
Parts for the 40 amp upgrade are getting scarce. You might plan ahead and start gathering parts. Should you not use them, you can almost certainly sell them here in a year or few.

40 amp adapter plate and complete kit p/n 11202maj g20 | Vendor Announcements

I own a machine shop and needed this adapter plate. It is now obsolete from Honda Parts. So I made some and have sold 140 so far with excellent feedback. Price is 90.00 with free usa shipping. I also sell complete kit alternator, 13411-maj-g20 shaft,91004-mt3-003 bearing,91002-mt3-003 bearing ...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com

Article [11] - ST1100 - 40 amp Alternator Upgrade | ST1100 Articles

St1100 40 amp Alternator Conversion Completed! The following are observations that may help others attempting this project: My motorcycle is a 1993 ST1100 ABS with 101,000 miles on it. The alternator was working properly but was leaking oil. Not just a dribble but enough that I didn't want...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com

Article [11] - ST1100 - 40 Amp Alternator Upgrade Video | ST1100 Articles

Well, finished the 40amp upgrade last weekend. I'll post some of the highlights and pic's soon but the most interesting thing I learned was a couple of methods to install the alternator through the crossbar. I made a couple of video's and put them up in YouTube: Here's the 90deg method: And my...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com

Article [11] - ST1100 - 40 Amp Upgrade | ST1100 Articles

Attached is a write-up for my alternator upgrade done in October 2006. You will need Acrobat Reader to view. Hope it helps someone. .
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
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Thank you SMSW, that sounds like a smart idea.
 
There are a few things you can do to help that 28 amp alternator. This may have been done by the PO but it’s worth checking out.
Take the left side cover off. Look for three yellow wires going into the voltage regulator/ rectifier. ( white 6 terminal connector) trace those three yellow wires back to a red connector if it still has it. If it does bypass the connector and solder the corresponding yellow wire to the other and cover with heat shrink tube.
Next check the main relay connector. It’s under a rubber boot has a green 30 amp fuse in front of it. Check the condition of the connector clean it and put dielectric grease on the contacts. Consider the red wire bypass. If the connector shows signs of melting burnt out replace the connector and splice a new red wire if burnt.
Check that 6 wire white connector VR/R to make sure it isn’t compromised .
If the main relay and VR/R are badly burnt you can replace the connectors with female spade connectors. Take pictures of the wires in the connector so you can hook the individual wires to the correct terminal. Really important on the main relay because if you hook up the wrong terminal it can blow the clutch diode.
 
congrats on doing the "fly and ride."

I've always wondered if I would do that,

if I were shopping for a motorcycle and found one halfway across the country....
 
kiltman said:
There are a few things you can do to help that 28 amp alternator. This may have been done by the PO but it’s worth checking out.
Take the left side cover off. Look for three yellow wires going into the voltage regulator/ rectifier. ( white 6 terminal connector) trace those three yellow wires back to a red connector if it still has it. If it does bypass the connector and solder the corresponding yellow wire to the other and cover with heat shrink tube.
Next check the main relay connector. It’s under a rubber boot has a green 30 amp fuse in front of it. Check the condition of the connector clean it and put dielectric grease on the contacts. Consider the red wire bypass. If the connector shows signs of melting burnt out replace the connector and splice a new red wire if burnt.
Check that 6 wire white connector VR/R to make sure it isn’t compromised .
If the main relay and VR/R are badly burnt you can replace the connectors with female spade connectors. Take pictures of the wires in the connector so you can hook the individual wires to the correct terminal. Really important on the main relay because if you hook up the wrong terminal it can blow the clutch diode.
Click to expand...
.
kiltman said:
There are a few things you can do to help that 28 amp alternator. This may have been done by the PO but it’s worth checking out.
Take the left side cover off. Look for three yellow wires going into the voltage regulator/ rectifier. ( white 6 terminal connector) trace those three yellow wires back to a red connector if it still has it. If it does bypass the connector and solder the corresponding yellow wire to the other and cover with heat shrink tube.
Next check the main relay connector. It’s under a rubber boot has a green 30 amp fuse in front of it. Check the condition of the connector clean it and put dielectric grease on the contacts. Consider the red wire bypass. If the connector shows signs of melting burnt out replace the connector and splice a new red wire if burnt.
Check that 6 wire white connector VR/R to make sure it isn’t compromised .
If the main relay and VR/R are badly burnt you can replace the connectors with female spade connectors. Take pictures of the wires in the connector so you can hook the individual wires to the correct terminal. Really important on the main relay because if you hook up the wrong terminal it can blow the clutch diode.
Click to expand...
I will check that out. I checked the starter relay that typically fries and people do the red wire delete. It looked brand new when I pulled it off. I will do the dielectric grease and look for the white 6connector on the vr/r. I have always been about pics as you can blow them up big to see how things were connected and routed. Thank you much for the advice
 
jdmccright said:
Sorry for the "memorable" ride home, but that's Texas for ya. I've ridden from Brownsville to D/FW via Houston and once was enough, realized I'm not a long-distance rider. My 95 was bone stock too, original seat, no handlebar riser, so my wrists and shoulders bore the brunt of it. Once I fixed those, I've loved the ST ever since.

One other thing to check about the overheating is to inspect the seal surface under the rad cap. If the metal has blackened corrosion spots along that edge, it can prevent full pressurization and leakage. You can try and use a small, fine file or scotch-brite pad to smooth it so it'll seal.
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I actually did that today and the radiator cap gasket was cracked in 4 places. Probably part of the problem. Replaced the cap with a 94 Accord LX cap for 15 bucks. Then I found cracks in the overflow hose at the nipple and snipped it back an inch. I'm trying to find the Cadillac DeVille fan switch that is about a 170° switch vs the stock ST switch at about 212°. When I was on the road, the temp gauge stayed around 1/8th, super low temp. But in Dallas I got paranoid thinking it might harm the engine, but looking for an out in Dallas doesn't exist. No matter where I went, the traffic was crazy. Sort of like Santa Monica to LA freeway.
 
gunsmoker said:
congrats on doing the "fly and ride."

I've always wondered if I would do that,

if I were shopping for a motorcycle and found one halfway across the country....
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I actually considered a black 95 in San Jose but the guy on cycle trader never responded, then I found the one in Houston. Lol
 
kiltman said:
Look into getting electronic cruise control, that reduces fatigue. Eventually you will be able to do 500 miles 800 kms per day without hesitation.
I have Helibars, a Corbin saddle, Rostra cruise control….i will take breaks every two hours (I’m old and my bladder reminds me of it) I max out at the 14 hour mark of saddle time….10 hours is a good comfortable day for me on an ST1100. Just sayin’
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I will check into all of the above. Are helibars the same as risers? I've never heard that term.
 
Helibars is a company with a set of bars that is adjustable in several planes (I have a set on my 2000)- nice product but expensive. The risers is a cheaper alternative and they are readily available for 7/8” diameter bars (even eBay) as a universal fit product. The highway pegs are a great upgrade if already on the bike (there’s relatively few options these days).
 
DrTodd93 said:
I actually did that today and the radiator cap gasket was cracked in 4 places. Probably part of the problem. Replaced the cap with a 94 Accord LX cap for 15 bucks. Then I found cracks in the overflow hose at the nipple and snipped it back an inch. I'm trying to find the Cadillac DeVille fan switch that is about a 170° switch vs the stock ST switch at about 212°. When I was on the road, the temp gauge stayed around 1/8th, super low temp. But in Dallas I got paranoid thinking it might harm the engine, but looking for an out in Dallas doesn't exist. No matter where I went, the traffic was crazy. Sort of like Santa Monica to LA freeway.
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Looks like your bike is running as normal- mine does the same- when air is hitting the radiator at speed, my temp needle is just above the second mark on the gauge (like 11 o’clock)- when in traffic, it’ll go up to ~ 1 o’clock and then the fan kicks on, but I ran a bypass switch to the left gray fairing piece so if I’m in traffic, I can activate the fan vs letting it come on when the thermal switch activates the fan. That bypass is very easy and cheap (price of a push button switch and some wire plus wire splicers). I guess you can run a lower temp switch, but you don’t want the fan on too often out of concern of burning out the motor (although I’m sure that’s very unlikely).
 
Pop-Pop said:
My fan on my 11 rarely kicked on. Id get a new radiator cap. It isnt as expensive as being stuck on the side of the road.

wasnt there a guy here that had the adapter plate?
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I assumed FZ750 is the guy you are asking about. If there was anyone else, I don't know.
 
Sounds like you're off to a great start. Agree that the alternator upgrade should be in your future plans.
In the meanwhile you could upgrade to LED Headlights to lessen the load and improve lighting.

I Highly recommend flushing and bleeding Clutch and Brake fluid. @Igofar would be so proud of me.

Also check the clutch lever brass swivel for wear .
 
Erdoc48 said:
Helibars is a company with a set of bars that is adjustable in several planes (I have a set on my 2000)- nice product but expensive. The risers is a cheaper alternative and they are readily available for 7/8” diameter bars (even eBay) as a universal fit product. The highway pegs are a great upgrade if already on the bike (there’s relatively few options these days).
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Thank you Erdoc48, those look awesome. What a great upgrade.
 
Welcome :thumb: Thanks for the description of the ride home with the newly purchased ST1100, but I am wondering about your lack of clothing or lack of complementary clothing :) I often ride long day trips of 500 - 700 kilometers and regardless of the bike and seat, my butt gets tired which results in standing up riding occasionally at the end of the day. If you are a top athlete, which I am not, you may not have this problem. Good luck with the ST
 
Houston AND Dallas rush hour traffic, ouch, and in a state without lane splitting…and a heavy clutch lever. I can’t adequately describe how much I hate Dallas traffic, highways, and drivers. Just the worst. Congrats on the new ride! I’ve a Corbin seat and the quality is excellent and comfortable despite being a pretty hard seat, actually. But yeah, a new seat would be a great first addition.
 
irunamok said:
Houston AND Dallas rush hour traffic, ouch, and in a state without lane splitting…and a heavy clutch lever. I can’t adequately describe how much I hate Dallas traffic, highways, and drivers. Just the worst. Congrats on the new ride! I’ve a Corbin seat and the quality is excellent and comfortable despite being a pretty hard seat, actually. But yeah, a new seat would be a great first addition.
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Boston driving! Whew!!!
 
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