95 ST1100 timing issue

andrew24 · Thursday at 7:52 PM

Bmacleod · Thursday at 8:52 PM

Now you just need to do a compression test to see if any damage was done to the valves

andrew24 · Thursday at 10:11 PM

Bmacleod said:
Now you just need to do a compression test to see if any damage was done to the valves

No it's still tapping on the valves attempting to figure out this issue of balance out the teeth or something so it matches the strokes

St-Gerard · Thursday at 10:23 PM

Have you downloaded the Service manual? Did you have to take out the exhaust cams to change any shims? Exhaust cams need to be indexed to the head before putting on the pulleys and belt.

Camrysandcoffee · Thursday at 10:33 PM

I would second getting a shop manual. For the ST 1300 the manual gives instructions on how to set the timing for the camshafts. Am I right in guessing that you changed the timing belt or did a valve adjustment before this problem occured?

St-Gerard · Thursday at 10:38 PM

Watched the video, the cams and pulleys are in the correct spots, two questions, are the cams in the right places, next I wonder if you have a broken valve retainer which would drop a valve down against the piston

Bmacleod · 2026-03-13T06:59:07-0500

andrew24 said:
No it's still tapping on the valves attempting to figure out this issue of balance out the teeth or something so it matches the strokes

My mistake. With no audio or type, I assumed you were proclaiming victory with that video.

kiltman · 2026-03-13T07:57:02-0500

You’re going into a lot of effort with this engine, kudos. The question was asked before, but I don’t think you answered it. 1995 was the last year for the 28-oil-cooled alternator. Many owners did the upgrade to the air-cooled 40-amp unit.
I’m not sure if you know this, but the failure rate of the 28-amp alternator is high. If the upgrade is needed on your bike, the options for the parts needed to do the upgrade are harder and harder to acquire. The upgrade is not cheap and involves removing the swing arm, fuel tank, and numerous other parts to do the change.
1990-1995 model years had an external VR/R. It has a 6-wire white plug attached to it and is mounted on the frame near the battery box. If that is still functional on your bike, you need to make a decision on how much more time and funds you are willing to put into this project.
Tell-tale signs of imminent failure are oil seeping from the seal where 5 wires (3 yellow, a black, and a white wire) come out of the alternator. You can also test each phase of the alternator with a meter and compare your results with the shop manual. The condition of the white connector to the VR/R will also indicate whether you have a charging issue or not.

If the upgrade has already been done, great! You’re on the road to eventually getting one of the finest sport touring bikes made.

St-Gerard · 2026-03-13T09:24:22-0500

Hi Andrew, one more thing that will prevent it from rotating, hopefully not, is a broken bottom end of a connecting rod. Question was the bike running?

Bmacleod · 2026-03-13T09:48:45-0500

The simplest thing to do right now is to remove the cams and try to rotate the engine. This will tell you ALOT. If it turns, you have cam timing issues. If it still locks up, you have bigger problems. Still cant determine if you have it timed properly and it will only take a few minutes to remove the cams. I would pull one side at a time to try to narrow down which side is causing the problem, if that is in fact the issue.

tnbill · 2026-03-13T11:02:30-0500

Whats the possibility of having the cams in the wrong position IE intake and exhaust swapped or left side cams on right side ? You need to look at the valve position at TDC

St-Gerard · 2026-03-13T11:37:37-0500

According to service manual they are labeled as to their location.

andrew24 · 2026-03-13T16:04:09-0500

Cylinder 1 is front right while sitting on the bike right?

Erdoc48 · 2026-03-13T19:21:24-0500

It is

andrew24 · 2026-03-13T20:07:10-0500

St-Gerard said:
Hi Andrew, one more thing that will prevent it from rotating, hopefully not, is a broken bottom end of a connecting rod. Question was the bike running?

I don't believe so, it was rotating when I first got it though I explain some things in the junky video I slapped together I'll post it tonight.

andrew24 · 2026-03-13T20:08:36-0500

tnbill said:
Whats the possibility of having the cams in the wrong position IE intake and exhaust swapped or left side cams on right side ? You need to look at the valve position at TDC

I'm posting a video tonight check it out I explain everything, I'm currently working on it in a storage unit as I figured it would be small issues which it is but... Things are going different direction lol

andrew24 · 2026-03-13T21:18:44-0500

andrew24 said:
No it's still tapping on the valves attempting to figure out this issue of balance out the teeth or something so it matches the strokes

But yeah will definitely do

andrew24 · 2026-03-13T21:56:29-0500

Ok here we go for those who care to watch this entire video

dwalby · 2026-03-13T22:34:57-0500

dude, seriously, a 45 minute video to show us your issues. People have already told you how to solve your problem, remove the cams, and start over from scratch. Its not that difficult if you're mechanically inclined.

nobody knows the history of this bike, so just assume its FUBAR, and fix it the only way that makes sense, where you control all the variables.

Bmacleod · 2026-03-14T07:56:17-0500

After watching bits of that video, i can concur with others, get a manual and follow it... Problem solved. I would add... Get rid of that Dawn detergent. You realize that you are spraying oil and grease remover on parts that rely on oil, right?

95 ST1100 timing issue

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