Let's make some power with Mandrake.

Joined
Apr 11, 2013
Messages
24
Location
South Ogden, UT
Bike
'05 STreetfighter
Since my 13 year old build thread got wiped out, consider this a continuation of the 30-something page thread that is no longer with us. I'm going to get those that don't know or remember up to speed real quick and then get down to the meat 'n taters of this thread... making more power.

I built this thing from the ground up back in 2013-2014 buying each part on eBay. Yep, I started with a bare frame, not a complete bike. It was an interesting adventure in deep dives into parts diagrams, many eBay listings of various parts to visualize how everything went together, wiring diagrams, and browsing pictures of various bikes to get ideas for the direction I wanted to go. Very, very long story short, I ended up with an ST13 main tank, engine, frame, swing arm, and rear wheel with an '06 GSX-R600 front end and an RC51 tail, plus a whole bunch of little stuff to make it all work together. Since I know you're wondering about the weight, it's about 230 lbs. lighter than an intact ST1300ABS. No, really. Anyway, I did some track days, put about 6000 miles on it, and then stopped riding in 2016. Just this past March (2026), I got back on the bike and fell back in love with it. Way back when I was first riding it, I was blown away with the tractability of the prodigious amount of torque but felt that Honda left a lot on the table with this engine. At the time, initial thoughts were supercharger or turbo. That was about as far as it went, though, as I stopped riding shortly thereafter.

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Back to the present and wanting to pick up where I left off, I gave boost a bit more thought and just couldn't come up with a way to cleanly integrate either system in the bike without it looking tacked on, so that was out. Fortunately, Honda blessed the bike with a big, burley engine that, at least in my case, is very easy to work on. To give you an idea, it only takes me about ten minutes of leisurely work to get the airbox open, and more time to get my tools together than it does to get the valve covers off. Oil changes? Pff... an oil change on a lawn mower is harder. It's probably the easiest bike to work on that I've ever had. First step was to find a Bazzaz Z-Fi to support the incoming mods. Sadly, they've been out of print since 2022, but I was able to quickly find one and as they say, it was off to the races. I loaded up a map that Catmandu2 put together that dramatically smoothed out the throttle response and idle, and eliminated this weird dead spot I had at between 3000 and 3500 RPM. The butt dyno says I picked up about 5 HP, too. Yay. He spent a lot of time on it and it shows, and it's so good, it's going to be the base map we build on as the mods happen.

So what mods? First let's talk about the exhaust. As you can see, I don't have slip ons that remotely resemble anything you guys have. The biggest restriction I'm seeing in the factory exhaust is what's behind the collectors. The outlet of the collectors is 2", but the pipe they welded to it is about 1.75" and there's no transition... it's just an abrupt step down. The H pipe is good for what they were after- low end and mid range, but I have other ideas. The plan is to cut the exhaust off behind the merge, then weld on two 2" 90 degree elbows that point inwards, then another two 90's that point upwards and merge into one pipe that goes up through the hole in the swing arm, and then split back into two pipes with the cans tucked tightly against the tail. This will basically give me an X pipe, which is better for top end power than an H pipe. All 2" pipe. I'm hoping to get this done by the end of the riding season.

Porting the heads and having some cams and valve springs made will be next. I may have to enlarge and shorten the primaries, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. I feel that 175 crank HP isn't an unreasonable number to hit without raising the redline or losing much of that glorious low end.

Before I start digging in to the engine, I'll be taking the bike apart this winter for paint and powder coat. In the mean time, I've started fooling around with velocity stacks since it's so easy to get into the airboxI've drawn up a few different lengths, but this will give you an idea of what I'm working on to replace the OEM rubber stacks. The first one is currently being printed to verify fitment before the other three are made.

Screenshot 2026-05-23 at 13.21.05.png

So there ya have it. Phase two of this bike doth commence. I'll be posting back here periodically with updates, findings, musings, and discussion related to the project. :)
 
First print fit great. I went with TPU for the first print because it's flexible but am going to use ASA for the stacks that actually go in the bike because it prints better, is stiffer, and will handle more heat than TPU. I'm going to run the print overnight and I should have four velocity stacks in the morning.

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I confess to being surprised nobody has tried to 'soup up' the ST's engine before now, especially considering the number of good mechanics, engineers, and tinkerers we have had on this website in the past 30 or more years (I don't know how long the ST website has been in existence). In the 80's Dr. John Wittner applied standard Detroit know how that boosted the output of stock engines to Moto Guzzi motorcycles, and he won and won and won. Since then, factory teams have poured money and engineering expertise into race bikes pushing aside most, but not all, privateers. Owners, for the most part seem to have accepted stock bikes and with occasional exceptions have not pushed the hp envelope like early hot rodders tinkering with cars. I suspect it is simply too easy (and probably cheaper) to just order the engine of your choice from vendors like Summit Racing than to embark on experimentation to build your own engine from what you had on hand.

I think this is an outstanding project. @Mandrake, can you share a bit of your background with us...where did you pick up the knowledge to massage the ST's engine?
 
I congratulate your efforts but my gut feel (as a non-engineer or tuner) is that while the ST1300 is a fabulous piece of engineering, it was designed from the off as a touring/police bike power plant. That target market favours tractability and torque at low revs, which brings with it some specific design choices like port and valve size, compression ratio, and bore and stroke. My understanding is that to boost power you have to boost either airflow in/out of the engine, or revs, or both.

I also own the VFR1200F which could have become a successor to the ST and is claimed to have about 170 bhp, but approaches the engine architecture from a very different direction; that engine has much higher compression ratio 12.0 vs 10.8, makes peak power at 10,000rpm vs 8000 rpm, and has 44mm bore throttle bodies where the ST uses 36mm (nearly 50% greater area). The change in stroke means the VFR has 13% higher peak piston speed even though it is spinning 25% higher than the ST.

I can see that you are looking to shorter intake ports as a first step, and that will likely move the peak torque higher in the rev range. Again with reference to the VFR1200, there is also the "X" model available which is retuned for low and midrange and that uses long intake trumpets like the ST, where my "F" model has shorter runners, but otherwise the airbox looks the same.
 

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I think this is an outstanding project. @Mandrake, can you share a bit of your background with us...where did you pick up the knowledge to massage the ST's engine?
I've been turning wrenches for 37 years on cars, trucks, heavy equipment, boats, aircraft, and power sports. I hold an A&P certificate and was an ASE Master Tech. I'm currently employed as a civilian aircraft electrician on military aircraft at the depot maintenance level. Early on in my career, I had the chance to be on a team that worked with Lockheed engineers on a prototype countermeasure system for the C-130 and weapons guidance systems for the F-16. In my free time, I've built several boosted cars and trucks over the years, but never any naturally aspirated stuff simply because the HP/$ ratio is so much better with boost than NA. I've no formal training in the performance world, nor have I ever worked in a performance shop. The closest I've come was working for a local racer-owned motorcycle shop building race bikes, but that was mostly limited to suspension setups and prep to pass tech. Basically, I'm just an average guy with a significant amount of mechanical knowledge, above average critical thinking skills, a mil-spec attention to detail, and the understanding that no matter what I want to do, someone's probably already done it and there's at least several scientific papers available online about it. For instance, here's some light reading I used to design the velocity stack: http://www.profblairandassociates.com/pdfs/RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf

I congratulate your efforts but my gut feel (as a non-engineer or tuner) is that while the ST1300 is a fabulous piece of engineering, it was designed from the off as a touring/police bike power plant. That target market favours tractability and torque at low revs, which brings with it some specific design choices like port and valve size, compression ratio, and bore and stroke. My understanding is that to boost power you have to boost either airflow in/out of the engine, or revs, or both.

I also own the VFR1200F which could have become a successor to the ST and is claimed to have about 170 bhp, but approaches the engine architecture from a very different direction; that engine has much higher compression ratio 12.0 vs 10.8, makes peak power at 10,000rpm vs 8000 rpm, and has 44mm bore throttle bodies where the ST uses 36mm (nearly 50% greater area). The change in stroke means the VFR has 13% higher peak piston speed even though it is spinning 25% higher than the ST.

I can see that you are looking to shorter intake ports as a first step, and that will likely move the peak torque higher in the rev range. Again with reference to the VFR1200, there is also the "X" model available which is retuned for low and midrange and that uses long intake trumpets like the ST, where my "F" model has shorter runners, but otherwise the airbox looks the same.

As with the build of the bike itself years ago, I'm figuring this out as I go along. I haven't given much thought to the TB's because, well... I'm stuck with them no matter what and they're ultimately going to dictate how much power it makes. That said, a single 36mm TB can support something like 90 HP worth of air, and we've got four of them. Maybe they'll get me to the mythical 175 HP I'm dreaming of, or maybe they won't. They can be bored out, but there isn't much meat to remove so I don't think that cost would be worth it. Valves can be oversized to an extent, too, but I think the biggest gains are going to be with compression, porting, port matching, cams, and exhaust. To the best of my knowledge, nobody's been down this road with this engine and like I said to SMSW, I'm just some dude googling his way through this project. Hell, it may end up being a stump puller instead of a screamer. We'll see what happens! :)

Props for going after it. Who are you thinking of for the custom cams?

Comp and Web can do custom cams and if push comes to shove, just about any decent shop can add material to the lobes and grind down the base circle on a set of factory cams. I'm 40 minutes from SLC and there are plenty of shops around there that can do that sort of thing, among the other processes that I'll need. I've heard that Kibblewhite can wind custom valve springs, too.
 
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I remember your original build. And followed your thread!

If you ever come down Cedar City way, look me up, I'm in the "Ran List"

Also, be sure to check out WeSTOC 30, in Cedar City September 14th thru 17th.

Well, I heard you guys missed me, so I'm back! haha... I remember you as well and it's cool to see you're still on here. Likewise, if you ever end up this way, lunch or dinner's on me. Believe it or not, I've never had a closeup look at an intact ST1300 and it'd be a treat to check one out.

I don't get down your way at all, but WeSTOCK sounds like a good time and a chance to ride some roads I never would otherwise. I'm probably going to take hell for this, but I think I'd have to trailer it down because I don't have the storage space you guys do and being a naked, it'd be pretty fatiguing on the highway for that long of a slab. I'll tentatively put it on my calendar. Thanks for the heads up!
 
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Well, I heard you guys missed me, so I'm back! haha... I remember you as well and it's cool to see you're still on here. Likewise, if you ever end up this way, lunch or dinner's on me. Believe it or not, I've never had a closeup look at an intact ST1300 and it'd be a treat to check one out.

I don't get down your way at all, but WeSTOCK sounds like a good time and a chance to ride some roads I never would otherwise. I'm probably going to take hell for this, but I think I'd have to trailer it down because I don't have the storage space you guys do and being a naked, it'd be pretty fatiguing on the highway for that long of a slab. I'll tentatively put it on my calendar. Thanks for the heads up!

Cool.

I've been trailering my ST1300s for almost as long as I've had them.

To make the wife happy, it was the only way for me to get her to some of the rides we did, years ago.
 
Ah, I figured everyone (or the vast majority) would be riding in what with it being a long distance tourer. Either way, it'll depend on if I can take time from work, but I'm hoping I can. :)
 
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